First backwash the filter a couple of times this weekend check the pressure. high pressure means backwash and low pressure means clean skimmers and pump basket no flow. Keep the chlorine between 3.0 and 5.0 the PH between 7.4 and 7.6 the alkalinity between 80 and 120. the only time to shock the pool is if there is if somethings dies or defecates or algae blooms and for combined chlorine. Chem adding goes by ppms parts per million. don't just shock because. If that doesn't work shut this system down for awhile to let everything settle to the floor. then start the system and vacuum the pool to waste on the filter manifold..
Take a sample to a pool shop and find out. If the pool has been green you may have dead algae floating around, a sand filter will never take that out. You need to flock it or new water. Then there is the toy you call a sand filter, OK when everything is perfect but small filters and pumps just won't handle a very dirty pool.
Check your alkalinity it should 80 to 100 and chlorine should be 1.5 and some cheap brands of shock cause cloudiness make sure your shock is 68 to 73 percent calcium hypochlorite, another thing to check is calcium all 3 can cause cloudiness form lack of proper chemicals
Check levels how much chlorine to much shock will cloud pool you have to wait for sun to burn off or drain some water and add I would just say wait
Too much chlorine can throw off the balance of the water. It would be best to take a sample to the local pool shop and have them analyze it (usually free service). There are a variety of products that can clear up the water, some require vaccuming afterwards. But it's best to eliminate the root cause unless you enjoy cleaning the pool every week.
SOURCE: I have an intex chlorinator and an intex 24' x 48
high chlorine can cause problems too it will give false readings for your ph and alkalinity.
The most important thing to remeber is that there is a sequence to follow.
First buy a test kit for salt about 11 bucks for 10 tests. you need to have the ppm's at 3000
if it is to high drain 20% water re-fill and filter/curculate for 6 hours then test again. once at 3000 then go for your chlorine it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 with a test kit now with those 2 in line go for ph adjustment ph should be as close 2 7.6 as possible. Ph will cause more problems like cloudy water or algea more than anything else.
another thing you need to realize is that the intex salt system sucks. Once you set it for the # of hours to chlorinate you are basically guessing as to what is needed. Yes there is a guidence chart as to hours to run but it is over kill and lets too much chlorine be generated start with 3-4 hours of generating but remember also that at 4 hours generating that is nowhere near enough filtering
you will need to shut power off get it out of sleep mode and continue to filter
on avberage a pool should be turned over 3 times a day my pool 7000gl and the 2000gph all in one intex salt pump needs run at least 10 hours a day alone without the chlorinator
my pool only 18' so with your total gallons it will be longer
one last thing to consider is that when in chlorine generating mode the filter slows down because of all the electronics. You can not hear it happen but if you put your hand in front of the discharge you can tell
SOURCE: we switched to the saltwater system and the water is cloudy
hello way too much for me to type if you want to call I can go through it have a pad of paper and pen ready
Mark
586-625-2300
SOURCE: CLOUDY SALT WATER POOL
salt does not solve your problem.
People do no realize that all the salt does for you is that it eliminates having to pour regular chlorine in.
Everything else stays the same as a normal pool with just plain ole h2o
The dilema is that intex filters are to small for the job that needs done especially in your case now that you have the dreaded green monster
your solution is to first get it cleared up
shock your pool with 2 gallons of liquid chlorine and then filter filter filter
You will need to brush the dead algea and vaccum once or twice a day for a couple of days and you must clean that cartridge 3-4 times a day with the garden hose
you will be surprised how much green it will trap
once pool starts to clear and the chlorine level starts to come back down from Mars you can start using your generator again.
you will need to find the amount of time thatorks for you but 3-4 hours will not cut it in the hot weeks
Chlorine consumption is due to #of bathers, heat ,sun, rain so any given day will dictate a different amount of generation needed keep it high so you do not get algea again about 3.0
you also got algea because you were not stiring up the pool enough you again need to filter filter filter every day
try to find some of my other postings with more specifics
SOURCE: NO CHLORINE
i just went through this
Are you using the instructions in the manual for locking the system after setting the number of hours?
If you are, they are not right
unlock the system, set your hours then press and hold the down arrow until it beeps and then press and hold the up arrow until it beeps, the system is now locked and in about 10 minutes the chlorine light will come on. Our pool went green and now that we have it running right the colour is changing before our eyes. Changed the filter and washed it out several times.
SOURCE: We have a Krystal Clear
You should always follow the instructions on the manual .. I have a 18X33X4 oval and had to start with over 350 lbs of salt and ran the pump without the chlorinator for 24 hours to properly disolve the salt. Then, I started with 12 hrs pump cycle with 10 hrs of chlorination in between the 12 hrs. Keep checking the chlorine level and adjust time from there. Currently at temperatures of 85 to 100, I run the system at 10 hrs pump with 8 hrs chrlorinator and water is Crystal Clear... In the 2 years with the intex system, I have not added any chemicals to my pool. I once had an issue when the water level went low while I was on vacation, when I came back, the chrolinator had turned off due to low flow and my pool water was green.. As soon as I re-started the cycle, a few days later, Crystal Clear again... NO CHEMICALS OR SHOCK added.... Hope this helps....
You need to be able to test at least chlorine, salinity, ph, alkalinity,
and stabilizer. The best way is using test strips. If you have a sample
of water tested at a pool supply store that will work too but frequent
transportation is more costly than strips. The salinity should be about
3000 ppm, Chlorine should be between 2 and 4 ppm, alkalinity should be
between and 80 and 140 ppm and the stabilizer should be between 30 and
50 ppm. Some say up to 100 ppm. Unfortunately higher stabilizer reduces
the chlorine's ability to kill algae, etc. When the water becomes cloudy
it is likely low on chlorine and is about to turn green. If the test
shows low chlorine level then I would add shock to 10 ppm chlorine. If
the filter system is working correctly then it should clear up fairly
soon. I would not let anyone swim until the chlorine is between 2 and 4
ppm and you can clearly see the pool bottom.
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