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Anonymous Posted on Jul 03, 2014

Replaced thermal cut out fuse kit and still no heat?

What could it be to fix this

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1028 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 19, 2008

SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

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Anonymous

  • 1922 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 09, 2009

SOURCE: whirlpool GEW9200L not heating up, i have replaced

not being sarcastic, but, your sure you have 240 volts present at the unit? then check door switch heat section control of switch may be bad

Sal De

  • 2699 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 19, 2010

SOURCE: Maytag performa Keeps blowing Thermal Fuse. Vents

something is still plugged with lint,if the vent line is long blow it out with a leaf blower to clean it out,you have to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,if the filter is on top remove the vent line,remove the back panel,remove the lint filter and the two screws in front of it and remove the four screws and clean out the duct,if the filter is in front take off the bottom panel,remove the filter and clean the duct,also vac out the inside of dryer where the motor is,when the dryer gets to hot the thermal fuse pops as a safety so you still have a block somewhere

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 07, 2010

SOURCE: Thermal cut-off blows and high limit thermostat is

in this case we put the lower temp thermostat in the oven at 170 degrees till it was hot and measured with ohm meter and it was open. After it cooled down some it went back to being a short. Now with this part in the dryer and the new high temp thermostat
and it blew shortly after being turned on. A possiblity is that there is a short by passing the 150 degree thermostat and the element keeps being on and causes the 350 degree thermostate to blow.

kel1guy2002

Kelly

  • 3740 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 10, 2010

SOURCE: Maytag Performa dryer blowing heating elements

Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.

When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.

I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.

There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)

Wish ya the best.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Dryer not heating

Yes, you probably need a new heating element as you did not list this as being replaced or checked.
2helpful
2answers

Whirlpool dryer bad heating element AGAIN

Hi Warren Fink
Try this solution to your problem

A vent clogged with lint can cause the dryer to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
Please take time to rate me
Bud
2helpful
1answer

Have power everywhere but won't turn on

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the door switch if found defective.

Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.

Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and just the lever. Check your model for more details.Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.
Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.



10_3_2012_5_28_02_am.gif
Oct 02, 2012 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

Dryer works, no heat. Checked power to dryer. Both fuses are supplying electric to dryer. Replaced heating element, replaced thermostat, replaced thermal fuse. All replacement parts are new. I did...

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101
Aug 11, 2011 • Dryers
0helpful
3answers

Should you have continuity on the cut off switch?

4239059.jpgcheck this out: If either one of these limits mounted aside the heat chamber check open the dryer will not heat but it will run. These come in a kit with both limits and both limits need replacement.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Apr 11, 2010 • Dryers
1helpful
2answers

It won't heat, how can i fix the heating element without getting a repair man?

Here's how: - unplug the unit - take the inspection plate off the back of the dryer and loosen the drum belt
- take the top off the dryer - remove the drum (inspect the drum seal) - examine the coil(s) for a break, then test with an ohm meter
go buy a belt (if needed) a drum seal kit (if needed) and the coil or coils. This is all easy to do- go to it!
0helpful
1answer

Wife just called. No heat in Kenmore 87874100 78741. i am sure its a thermo or safety. Cant find a serv manual. Thoughts? Thanks, Tom

I tried to locate your unit on the web at www.partselect.com but something is not correct about it. If you try to search it, remember that you will have to include the period. It goes between the third and fourth number in the model number on a Kenmore.
Now for fixing the problem.
You are correct most likely. First have your wife reset the breaker. I can't tell you how many times when I first started servicing appliances that I would take a unit apart before checking the breaker and then find the unit didn't have 220v going to it. If the breaker is not tripped, you will have a bad thermal fuse and or thermal cut off. When you buy the part you need, also but a cycling thermostat. When they go out, the dryer then is forced to operate off of the thermal fuse and or thermal cut off until they go out. You will find these parts located on the vent housing near the blower housing . Most appliance parts houses sale these in a kit if you ask. The kit will come with both a cycling thermostat and a thermal cut off. If it's a thermal fuse you need, you will have to also buy a cycling thermostat. I have yet to see them in a kit. You also need to check the vent and be sure it's not stopped up. If not, the cycling thermostat most likely just got week and went out. This will fix your problem.
3helpful
2answers

Whirlpool Dryer, Heats up, but will not spin.

Thermal fuse , is the small white plastic piece on the blower box . That , keeps the dryer from running . Thermal cut-off , is the small thermostat on the burner (element) box , which would keep the dryer from heating .
0helpful
2answers

Kenmore dryer not heating

I would leave the old one in there till it breaks.The replacement parts don't seem to last as long as the original equipment.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

0helpful
1answer

Kenmore dryer (electric )

You will need to UNPLUG the dryer and remove the back panel to access. The heating element is located inside the heater box on the right-hand side of the dryer (facing from the back). Simply disconnect, the wires leads and remove the mounting screws to remove.

Now...you mentioned removing the thermal fuse. Did you check the thermal cut-out or the hi-limit thermostat? These components are small silver disc-shaped devices mounted on the heater box assembly. As you are facing the back of the dryer, the hi-limit thermostat is located near the terminal connections of the heating element. The thermal cut-out is located farthest away from the heating element closer to the top of the heater box. Usually when you have a no heat problem, it the thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, or heating element that goes bad. If the thermal fuse is bad, you generally have a dryer that not only won't heat, but won't even turn on. I hope I'm not confusing you. In a nut shell, there's a difference between the thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. If you had large accumulations of lint in your dryer, I would bet you have a blown thermal cut-out.

If you wish to check the parts listing yourself to make sure you have the correct parts, go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading. The thermal cut-out kit is what you need to order for a no heat problem. It's listed as item #1 (part #279816). This also includes the hi-limit thermostat. It is recommended by the manufacturer to replace BOTH of these components at the same time. The heating element is listed as item #14 (part #279838).

Look under the "view diagram" heading and you can see where all these components are located, using the exploded view of the dryer assembly. The thermal fuse you mention is listed as item #59 in the drawing and is located on the air baffle housing.

This is still an easy fix. I just want to make sure you're identifying the correct parts. I don't think you want to purchase parts you don't need.

I hope this helps you. If I've managed to confuse you, please post back with your questions and I can guide you in the right direction.
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