Oven ples399ecb. heating element and blower will not shut off until breaker is thrown
Good Morning Friend,
I understand your Frigidaire oven will not turn off. I also see that when you turn it off, the blower and heating element, stay on. The blower will stay on to help cool down the oven, but the heating element should turn off. I see that you have to turn your oven off at the circuit breaker. I suggest contacting your local authorized dealer for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose your appliance and determine why your oven will not turn off. Hope this is helpful.
-Best Regards-
WP
SOURCE: KitchenAid KERA807PSS01 oven won't shut off until breaker thrown
assuming its a stainless stell oven? if so heres the par tyou need its a membrane switch( your cancel button ceased to operate corrrect???not a bad part to install you need to remove a few screws from under control panel itself( perhaps a few on the sides, the front control will lift off and this part is installed from behind the control panel (SHUT THE BREAKER(S))
part number 9756595ES
in the mean time instead of shuttin off the breaker toreset you can simply( requires reading manual ) set your oven to time bake. it will shut off automatically after predetermined time has been obtained.
Testimonial: "worked, thanks"
SOURCE: Oven will not heat
Although I am not familiar with this oven, living in the u/k, I would say that without any doubt the oven element(s) have failed, more so if the fan is working, so I would have hesitation that you replace the suspect element (s)..
Plz let me know how you get on.Thanks.
SOURCE: F1 error code plus constantly beeps and Oven won't shut off
ERC is bad and must be replaced.
(The Clock).
SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,
SOURCE: My oven says that it's on (heating up or cleaning,
no i do not think your elements are bad.it soundsd more like the main control board has malfunctioned.
Testimonial: "Thanks, I'll take a look."
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