Blade will run for about a minute. Then locks up if i give it a minute and force the chain to move it will run for a minute the i will have to wait again

if it is the chain that comes loose, loosen of the blade lock nut and adjust it with the screw under the blade
the proper tension of the chain is achieved when you pull the center of the chain up and the clearance to the blade is around 1/16 inch( leaving the inner section of the chain still in the blade guide
retension the lock nut

I had a saw that did that and found my blade the chain runs in was bent. Another problem was the groove the chain goes in had a gouge that did not look like much but was just enough to throw the chain. Also check the drive sprocket and make sure it lines up with the groove in the blade the chain runs in.I replaced the blade and its ok now.

I have four options when my chain saw blade gets dull. 1) replace it with a new one. 2) take it to a repair shop and pay half the price of a new blade. 3) Use my hand sharpening file kit from Lowe's, or 4) Use my electric chain saw blade sharpener form Harbor Freight. I recently purchased one for about $30 on sale. In one setting I earned the price of the sharpener by sharpening my old blades that were just hanging on a peg waiting to take to the repair shop. Really, the sharpener takes a small amount of skill, but the few minutes it takes to learn can save a lot of time and moo-lah.

The chainbrake has actuated, you need to pull the hand gurd fully toward the rear of the machine until you hear the click of the brake unloading.

The nut may be cracked, like mine is. While I am trying to get a new one, I found I can still tighten the blade by laying the saw with the blade securing nuts up. Loosen the two nuts 1/2 turn. There is a small hole in the bar right near the case. Use a small screw driver placed in the hole and pry against the case to force the bar out and tighten the chain. While prying out on the bar, tighten the two nuts.

there is a broken gear in the gear reduction box. (explain:) the motor spins at a high rpm, the chain moves at a 1/4 or less rpm than the motor. a series of gears reduces the speed, which in turn creates torque, allowing the saw to have the force to keep cutting without stopping. One of the gears is broken or a keyway on a shaft is sheared...as far as i know, no electrical power tools are rebuildable. it's a safety thing (electric shock if reassembled wrong...they are priced for replacement...get a new one...

Does the chainsaw seem to rev up without any resistance, or does it bog down as you push the throttle? If it revs up quickly, then it sounds like the clutch plates may be frozen - usually due to rust. If it boggs down, then the chain and/or clutch housing are frozen or stuck somewhere.

The chain drive uses a centrifugal dry friction clutch with two weighted plates that are spring loaded. The springs keep the plates disengaged from the clutch housing to allow the engine to spin freely at an idle (or slip when the chain slows down due to the blade binding).

When you press the throttle, the engine revs up and the higher RPMs create centrifugal force causing the clutch plates to push outward - fighting against the springs, and begin creating friction on the inside of the clutch housing. If rust prevents the clutch plates from moving out to cause the necessary friction, the clutch housing (and drive gear which is permanently affixed to the housing) won't spin and the chain won't move.

With the engine OFF and cool...first take a thick towel or rag and place it over the chain with the engine switch in the OFF position. Try to move the chain in the normal rotation (top forward, bottom backward) to see if the chain moves freely or if it is stuck in position. If it does move, then take off the chain cover and then get a can of PB Blaster and spray the clutch plates and springs. Give it an hour or so and then take a rag and wipe off the excess and reassemble and try it. The excess PB Blaster will burn off with the heat of the clutch and the rust will no longer be a problem.

If the chain won't move, then somewhere along the drive the chain or clutch housing are stuck. Look for a bend or kink in the bar where the chain rides.

There are a couple of reason the saw blade will not turn.
- Make sure you have bar and chain oil in saw.
-Make sure oil is running on the saw blade and chain.
-Make sure the clutch is not stuck.
- Make sure the bar sprocket is not frozen.
-The safety kick back guard needs to be re-set.
-Shut off saw. Push and pull guard.
Please let me know what you find.

Chain may be locked in the bar. Caused by low oil flow to chain. You will probably have to remove the bar and blade. Then try to rotate the sprocket, if it will not rotate you may have to replace or repair the clutch. with the blade off try starting the saw and see if it is oiling. There is a small hole in housing that oil should be visible coming out at a fairly good rate. If not you will either have to open orifice in the housing or repairing the oil pump.

have you greased your clutch bearing ever.some times they get dirty and tighten up after running a while.pull your clutch off and clean and grease bearing with a little alex grease,and I mean just a few drops.not meant to have a lot of it,too much will burn the crank shaft and you will have more problems then you started with