Hot water supply to washer works,but not cold water

do you have cold water
check water vavle

Hi from retired Englishman in France (it's 21:29!),

If your washer has 2 pipes for feeding water then one is for hot and the other is for cold naturally.
All washing machines have a water heating element in them- in case any hot water supply is not hot enough for its wash.
If you only have a cold tap you will need to purchase a 'Y' connector. This screws onto the cold tap supply (single end) and the hot and cold feed pipes connected to the washer screw onto the other two ends. The machine will now be fooled into thinking it has two separate feeds!
The machine opens the valve for the 'hot' water supply (which of course is cold) and the heats it up to the required temperature for the wash cycle. Afterwards, when the machine requires cold water for rinsing, it opens up the 'cold' supply (which is the same supply as for the hot water!) and is happy.

Hope this answers your question.

John C

Assuming the supply water pressure is ok and the screens are fine replace the water valve. http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/clothes-washer-repair.html

remove the cold water hose from the machine that is your service line feeding into it.
a screen in the inlet were the hose attaches to is probably clogged up

It's overfilling If your washer is overfilling, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.

It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected. 

If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.

For low water volume - or "Trickling" effect...

1. Turn off the water supply to both hoses.
2. Remove hoses (one at a time so you don't get them confused)
3. On the washer side - look for a removeable screen inside wher you just removed the hose.
4. Using a small screwdriver - pop out the screen and reverse-flush it/clean it. It will likely be full of sediment and calcium deposits from your pipes.
5. Replace the inlet screens.
6. Re-fit the hose to the machine.
7. Turn on water supply valves.
8. re-try.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Inside the machine you have a valve called inlet.

The inlet water valve will collect the cold and hot water lines, and open alternatively one or the other during cycle.

To access the inlet valve you need to take apart the machine, and that is not an easy task.
If you DIY remember to unplug power, there is high voltage running inside your appliance.

Below the inlet valve for your model:

1014350

For low water volume - or "Trickling" effect...

1. Turn off the water supply to both hoses.
2. Remove hoses (one at a time so you don't get them confused)
3. On the washer side - look for a removeable screen inside wher you just removed the hose.
4. Using a small screwdriver - pop out the screen and reverse-flush it/clean it. It will likely be full of sediment and calcium deposits from your pipes.
5. Replace the inlet screens.
6. Re-fit the hose to the machine.
7. Turn on water supply valves.
8. re-try.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!!!

For low water volume - or "Trickling" effect...

1. Turn off the water supply to both hoses.
2. Remove hoses (one at a time so you don't get them confused)
3. On the washer side - look for a removeable screen inside wher you just removed the hose.
4. Using a small screwdriver - pop out the screen and reverse-flush it/clean it. It will likely be full of sediment and calcium deposits from your pipes.
5. Replace the inlet screens.
6. Re-fit the hose to the machine.
7. Turn on water supply valves.
8. re-try.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

hi thanks for the question if you cleaned the screen and no hot water i would replace the water valve thanks the appliance doc