Question about Whirlpool GEW9200L Electric Dryer
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Please perform the following
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
the problem is the door latch have a look and see if the door pin (plastic) still has both prongs they should look the same from side to side if they are then the tension wires in the doors clamp have come apart. if one side of the door pin has snapped off (most common problem from slamming door closed) replace the door pin
hope this helps
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Posted on Aug 03, 2010
SOURCE: My Whirlpool Duet dryer keeps
Repair is done testing element, thermostat and timer board.
A problem cusing this is often a plugged element. That means that the element stays always on because of a contact.
If that is not the problem, then thermostat may be shorted (it reads zero Ohms when limit temperature is reached, not opening and causing overheating).
Check also the status of the thermal fuse.
If all the above is Ok, then test the control board.
The timer board rarely causes this kind of problems, the problem is likely in the heating system.
Posted on Aug 23, 2010
SOURCE: the dryer will not shut
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I would say that the timer has gone bad...
That is not that hard to fix and you can easily buy the parts yourself online...
Here is a tip that will help you with the online buying...
How to Buy Appliance Parts Online
Posted on Sep 12, 2010
SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool Duet
Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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A Whirlpool Duet dryer has a latch on the interior frame of the door. It essentially locks the door closed when the dryer is operating to keep you from opening the door and becoming injured by the tumbling drum. The dryer can only run when the latch is secured. If the latch breaks, a dryer might start but shut off prematurely. Open the door and press the latch down with your finger. It should make a ticking sound when you release it. Replace it if it doesn't.
A dryer's power cord delivers electricity from the electrical outlet to the machine. If the power cord isn't firmly plugged into the outlet, it can interfere with the electricity transfer. While your Whirlpool Duet dryer might start, it probably will shut off soon afterward if the cord is wobbly. Also, if cords wires are visible through the rubber encasing, the cord might be defective. Though the dryer turns on, a faulty power cord might not be able to sustain the dryer's long-term operation.
The Whirlpool Duet dryer's control panel operates with the support of multiple wires that link to various dryer components. After you choose a drying setting and turn on your dryer, the control panel begins running elements of the dryer. If one of the wires fails, it can disrupt the performance of your dryer. Contact a dryer repair specialist if you suspect that the control panel might have short circuited. If your dryer is still under warranty, rather than replace the corrupt wire, he might recommend replacing the entire panel.
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