How hard is it to replace the pump that pumps the water out under the motor

fix it. God bless you
Water Inlet Valve
If the hose connections are good to the water inlet valve check that water is not leaking from the valve itself it is replace the water inlet valve.

Drain Pump
Check the drain pump housing and all hose connections. The drain pump is down under neath. To disassemble your washer follow the appropiate tutorial. Hoses can be tightened. If hoses or pump housing is leaking replace the pump assembly.

Tub Seal
This is in the center of the tub. The seal is inexpensive but will require some labor to install. Check the tutorials on disassembling the cabinet then remove the agitater and inner tub. Enter your model # above for a diagram or illustration.

The solution depends on the age or vintage of your machine.

On the old style machine,weighs about 300lbs, leaking is caused by a release port in the pump assembly. Its located above the motor in the rear right corner of the machine.

On the newer version of the machine, often with a white mantel and about 100lbs. Leaking of often caused by a poor brake. When the machine is in wash the brake holds the tub from spinning, however whent hat brake is weak the tub is allowed to spin in the wash cycle causing water to spill over the top of the tub and to the floor.

Its hard to say what the problem is without knowing more but a very basic guideline would be, if its from the pump you will be seeing a small stream coming from under the machine. If its the newer version it will be alot more water.

You should be able to replace the pump yourself, the brake repair is both very involved and can be more costly and should be done by a technician.

Hope this helps, take care

Hi,
Most likely the seal at the pump shaft is bad and the water leaks out as the motor is running...this can be fixed by an experienced plumber, but is rather difficult and parts are hard to find.
Replacing the whole pump and motor may be the best option...

heatman101

Hello, you've indicated this problem only arrises during the rinse cycle, is that correct ? The leak doesn't occur during the wash cycle initial fill level ? I want to distinguish the difference because there has been a repair tip issued by whirlpool for the duet and sport washer's. This may be applicable to your machine. If it is indeed only during the rinse, the problem is within the door assembly. Specifically the glass and it's "seat" to the frame. Let me know, I'll watch for your reply. macmarkus :)

Hello- By pump do you mean motor pump, or drain pump? Drain pump has a small seal that can leak but rarely does. Motor has a seal that can leak, causing motor to fail eventually. This is confirmed by a small amount of water/deposits on lowest point of motor. This leak is unrelated to glass pieces in tub. Motors with this leak get louder as bearing fails, and eventually lock up. Let me know if this info helps- have more if needed- Thanks- Ed

Hi

You'll need to open the machine and check for the leaks in the hose connected to the drain pump. Also check if the clamp connecting the drain filter and hose is tight. Also check these things for leaks---

Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace.

Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you'll need to replace it.

Please do rate this solution as FixYa if found useful and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

• Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.



• The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.



• Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.



• Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.



• Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.



• Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

If your dishwasher leaks, check these:Main tub seal
Door gasket or seal
Water-inlet valve
Hoses

Main tub seal
Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher, the following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace the entire pump and motor assembly.

The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove the:

1. Lower rack
2. Spray arm
3. Spray arm support
4. Wash/drain impellers


Then pry the seal out of its housing and replace it.


Door gasket or seal
Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You need to replace them if they've begun to leak. 


Water-inlet valve
The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But, the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or repair/replace these as necessary.

The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and replace the valve.

Hoses
Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose.
thanks for using FixYa

If it does not spin see the following suggestions from Repairclinic:

" It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

On leaks:

It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

• Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.



• The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.



• Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.



• Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.



• Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.



• Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

It sounds like you have a leaking pump. The pump is easy to replace:
#1 Use a shop vac and pull all the water out of the drain line. This will keep you from having to clean up about 1 gallon of water off of the floor.
#2 Lift the front of the machine enough for you to get under and see.the pump just inside the front of the washer.
#3 Lift the 2 retaining clips off of the pump. This will allow you to pull the pump off of the motor.
#4 Remove the 2 clamps off of the hoses.
#5 Install the new pump into the hoses, and reinstall the clamps.
#6 With the retaining clips installed into the motor housing, install the pump.
#7 Attach the retaining clips, and set the washer back on the ground.

You have now replaced the washer pump.

If you have any questions, let me know

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