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Dear Shata,
Understand that water & electricity together are so very bad that the two of them together can kill you.
Now, it sounds like you have water into the jacket of the hot water heater.
Although this is not "fatal", getting the water out and getting the heater insulation to dry out may be nearly impossible.
If you, for example, just left it sit all alone, it may never dry out, as the wet insulation needs plenty of air to dry, and the outer metal jacket will prevent any air getting to the wet insulation.
(If you had no monies, and were terribly creative, I suppose cutting a 2 or 3 inch diameter hole in the outer metal jacket and attaching a "hair blow dryer" to the hole you have made, and turning it on high might blow enough air into the chamber between the outer and the inner walls to dry out the insulation, but it could take a week. Obviously, the connection would need to be air tight, and you would need to remove the plate on the top for the wet air to go somewhere.
The last repair I suggested is NOT an accepted fix, it is just an idea.)
God bless your efforts.
This is a Noritz Tankless.
That whoosh is excess gas being ignited behind the normal lead/lag time for G-Valve opening and igniter on. Might be the Igniter but you'll need a new igniter gasket as if you pull the igniter assembly and clean ONLY WITH A GREEN SCOTCHGUARD PAD, you'll shred the gasket and need a new one. NEVER sandpaper an igniter it is coated and sanding destroys it.
Also may be a flowmeter signal problem where flow is sensed but ignition signal is slow to igniter but on-time to gas valve opening resulting in excessive gas pocketing in HE before a clean ignition.
I'd say Tech Service Issue as this gas can pocket in the extreme enough to blow the unit off the wall with a late or slow ignition spark.
Replace thermistors. Remove upper and lower covers, They are located under the foam insulation. Cut back insulation. Insulation must be put back when finished. Call Whirlpool for parts, and they will also send instructions. 1-877-817-6750 You will need model and serial number from label on side of tank. This will also determine if 6 year warranty is in effect that will cover cost of parts.
There may be a draft blowing out the pilot. Place some fiberglass insulation inside the cover for the burner or pull down the insulation from inside the jacket just over the burner opening.
My guess is that you may have or have had a spider web or other debris in burner tube that caused flame to back up, thus burning some wiring but, have someone experienced check it and clean it. The wiring if not burned too bad may be able to be repaired/spliced.
Hello, If you are not seeing a spark at the pilot assembly where the pilot flame lights, then it is probably not sparking in the right place. You may have a short in the wire or a cracked porcelain ignitor, causing it to spark elsewhere. If you can remove the access panel, you may have to relight the pilot manually with a butane lighter. To resolve the issue of the flame blowing out, make sure your vent outside has a cap on it and that the vent is not partially blocked with a bird nests, etc. Hope this helps. Douglas
Most likely only one of the pipes is leaking but weaping enough to cover the top and indented places near both inlet and outlet. This leak has most likely penetrated all the insulation and is a problem throughout the tank wrap insulation...If you are able to blow air continuously long enough to determine which connection is leaking then fix it. It will likely to take quite a while to dry out all the insulation if the water has migrated down into the tank wrap... If you determine that the insulation is waterlogged, you may be able to drill several small holes in the external cover. good luck
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