SOURCE: HF signal code
Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too. Height of exit hose should be approx 3 feet from ground level.
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SOURCE: F05 Error Code on Kenmore Elite HE3T Washer Model 11044932200
First of all, make sure you unplug the washer before making any measures, and make sure you unplug any connectors from the CCU, so you aren't reading parallel paths. Isolate the components you wish to test from the CCU or you may get inaccurate readings.
The reading across the heating element terminal should read 15 ohms. Make sure you aren't grounding your probe against the case, or you will get improper readings.
The NTC will read approximately what you have at room temperature. Was the connector plugged in before you began troubleshooting? A common problem is the connector falling off and generating the error code.
As far as the connector plug on the CCU is concerned, plug layouts can differ between models. Make sure you have the correct connector plug to the NTC. You may have to hand over hand it to find it. Unplug the connector at the CCU and leave it plugged in to the NTC. Perform a resistance check across the PLUG terminals. You should get the same readings as you mentioned before if the plug and wires are good. This not checks the resistance of the NTC, but also proves continuity of the wires.
Doublecheck your readings and let me know what you have. I would like to rule out a CCU problem. It is not common for this error code. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: Washer will not run, Kenmore HE2 Plus, Model# 47532601
It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
SOURCE: My kenmore elite HE4T washer keeps stopping in the
FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:
•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.
"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.
If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet
To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.
There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore HE2
Let's focus first on error codes F22 and F26. Error code F22 is door lock fault and it flashes when the door lock fails to activate after 6 attempts while F26 flashes when the door switch is opened for more than 5 seconds while the door is locked or when the door is not opened after 3 consecutive cycles. Since you cannot do 3 consecutive cycles without opening the door, this may indicate that the door switch contacts are welded together. But both error codes may also indicate a malfunctioning CCU or any other component such as the motor controller unit (MCU).
Disconnect power then start troubleshooting the machine by disconnecting the MCU wire harnesses (MI3 and MS2) from the CCU then reconnect power and start the machine. If error codes F22 and F26 go away, then the MCU must be the culprit, replace it. If the error codes do not go away, disconnect power then test the continuity of the terminals of door switch harness DS2 both with the door open and close. It must have continuity, if the door lock and switch assembly is good, when the door is close and none when the door is open. Also test the continuity between the terminals of connector DS2 on the CCU and it should read open.
Proceed with the troubleshooting of the door lock switch and solenoids if the door switch contact is open when the door is open and close when the door is close. Disconnect power then disconnect the door lock switch harness from connector DLS2 on the CCU. Jump a wire between the terminals of DLS2 on the CCU then close the door firmly. Reconnect power then start the machine.
Post back the result of the tests and your observations about the behavior of the machine as you do the tests. It will help determine which part is causing the problem.
Please make sure you accept the solution which you found the most helpful and informative. Failure to do so will automatically give credit to the last solution viewed no matter how unhelpful and non-informative it is. Accepting a solution will not prevent you from communicating with the expert at no further cost. You can still post clarifications and follow-up questions as long as you need further assistance regarding the problem stated herein.
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