The fan has no power feeding it

It is caused by from having a bad fuse and the fuse will need to be replaced in your car.

Check to see if fans are working.. if they are replace your thermo switch. Some multimeters have temp gauges on them..check consistency of power to the fans and temperature for the cut in switch.

Hope this helps
Ken

follow fan wire you will able to find it

Remove green (fan run) wire from thermostat, and connect to red wire (power) and see if fan runs, and if it will stay running. That will by-pass thermostat to see if it is problem. If it continues to run, thermostat is problem. If that doesn't cure it, I'd remove cover up top and with power off at circuit breaker, blow compressed air in to motor air holes to make sure it's getting proper air for cooling, as well look for small plastic plug on housing where oil can be added ( few drops) to lubricate motor. Leave cover off and try fan to see if that may help. If at all possible, a clamp on amp meter will confirm if motor or relay is at fault if none of these suggestions help. If amp draw at motor too much, motor may be seizing when warmed up from running. test draw when first started and after running for amount of time that it usually quits, and if noticeable difference, motor is seizing and needs replace. You can also test amp draw at main 120v feed wiring with unit just in fan mode.

Sounds like defrost drain is stopped up if sheet of ice is in bottom of freezer. Sounds like you may also have a defrost problem. The 3 defrost components are defrost heater, defrost thermostat, and defrost timer or Board depending on model.

start by checking the power at the mains terminal, then check the continuity of the power input cable. if its healthy then confirm that all fuse in the cable plug is ok.remove the cover and check on the switch mode power supply.conduct a visual inspection to acertain any blown component like the fuse, swollen filter capacitor, the burnt resistors and diodes. if they do not seem to appear phisically burnt then conduct a meeasuring test with a multimeter.
replace any faulty component and test the television by opening the power input fuse and connecting a 100w bulb in series and feed in the power. if the tv oscillates and the bulb lights up then gets dim gradually then the tv is working hence you can now remove the series test bulb and place back the fuse and connect all the cables in place and feed in the power and you see your tv lighting up

Sorry, I stepped out. Otherwise I would have answered right away.

Your power supply changes your household, (Residential),or business electricity, into three main voltages. Also converts it from AC to DC electricity.

1) 3.3 Volts
2) 5 Volts
3) 12 Volts

Each one of these voltages is a voltage power rail.
There's more involved than that, but for ease of explanation, we'll let this suffice.

A) Orange wires are 3.3 Volts. ( 3 and 3/10ths Volts. Sometimes the decimal point is hard to see on here )

B) Red = 5 volts

C) Yellow = 12 Volts

The only power cable you're going to be switching around, in my thoughts, is a 4-pin peripheral power cable.
Has a 4-pin Molex connector on the end.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

Note that there is one Yellow wire, one Red wire, and two Black wires.

If you have a bad 5 volt power rail, or a bad 12 volt power rail, all the peripheral power cables will be effected.

Won't do you any good changing them out.

They all derive their power from the same source.

I understand your reasoning, and it looks logical, huh? But as you can now see, it doesn't affect anything changing peripheral cables around.

The blinking Power On light indicates you have a bad power supply.
I can't find any documentation on Packard Bell's website to give you, to substantiate my statement to you.

Otherwise I would.

To test my claim.
Do you have another power supply of the same style, and has the right amount of power cables? Also should be at least 200 watt.
You're just going to use it for a test, not as a replacement power supply.

No?

You could conduct a voltage test of the power supply, but if the fan doesn't even spin, the power supply is kaput.

Does the power supply's fan spin?
If so we can go on to do a voltage test.

This will require a multimeter.
The multimeter is set to the 0-50 Volts DC scale.

An economical, but decent enough multimeter, can be purchased in a multitude of places.

An auto parts store is one place.
Radio Shack is another.
There are several stores that carry affordable ones.

Average price for a decent enough multimeter for this test is around $10 to $15.

If you do not wish to use a multimeter, there is also the option of using a simple to use power supply tester.

This is one example, and an example of where to purchase it,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1647108&CatId=1107

Again, this is if the fan on the power supply spins. There is the rare occasion that the fan on the power supply will fail, and the power supply will work, but this is not one of those rare occasions.

Also, if the power supply fan spins a few times, then stops, the power supply is shot.

What leads to power supply failure?

A) The power supply was a low quality item installed by the computer manufacturer.
Saved the manufacturer money.

50 cents to a dollar saved, times 50,000 computers, or more of that model, adds up in a hurry.

B) The computer is dirty inside. Computers need to be kept clean on the inside, as well as their power supply's, on a regular basis.

Inside a Power Supply is a Heatsink, or more than one Heatsink.
A Heatsink is typically constructed of a flat metal base, that has tall fins protruding up from the base.

The metal base absorbs heat from whatever object is placed against it, and the heat is radiated up into the fins, where it is dissipated away.

Air flows through the fins, and helps carry the heat away.
(There is a Heatsink on top of the Processor also)

A Power Supply also has a fan.
The fan draws air into the Power Supply through the computer case, then pushes the air out of the back of the computer case.

The air drawn in through the computer case, helps to keep the hardware components inside the computer case cool, as well as the other fans that are implemented. (Computer case fan/s, Processor fan)

It also helps to keep the hardware components inside the Power Supply cool.

When the Heatsink fins are clogged with gunk, and the fan's blades, center hub, and surrounding shroud, are clogged with gunk, the cooling capacity of the Power Supply drops tremendously.

The Power Supply hardware components heat up.

Heat = Wasted Energy
The Power Supply tries to keep up with the demand for power, but with the energy loss due to excessive heat, the Power Supply hardware components eventually fail.

Typical SMPS used in a computer. (Personal Computer)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

to check for a parasitic battery drain, you will need a multimeter. set it on the 300 mA setting then remove the negative battery cable on the vehicle. put the multimeter's negative lead on the battery post and the positive lead on the vehicle's negative cable. the meter will tell you how many amps are being drawn. usually, there's a temporary spike (a second or two) for the vehicle's security system, relays, etc. after that, you should only see a draw of approximately 30-40 mA, which is the digital clock, memory settings on the radio, etc. if you're seeing a larger draw, you can begin removing main fuses in the fuse box under the hood to see where the draw is coming from. it's also possible that you may have a bad diode in the alternator, which would cause the alternator to draw current away from the battery when the engine is not running.

That is absolutely wrong. You cannot wire the CPU fan to the power supply because you will most likely burn the fan out. The power supply (ac adapter) is most likely feeding 19 volts to the motherboard, which is broken down into lower voltages to run various components. The fan may only be a 1.5 or 3 volt component. Fan speed is controlled by the voltage, so it would spin up much higher than it is designed for.

And even if it did work, the fan would not step down or idle at any time so it would fatigue and burn out from constantly spinning at a high speed.

CPU fan failure would almost certainly lead to a cooked cpu, damaged motherboard or both. You should have the machine serviced to repair the fan circuit unless you are willing to risk the loss of the whole machine. It is too critical a component.

If you still get current drawing when car is turned off, you will have to start pulling electrical connectors and checking for draw. If no change, connect, and go to next connector, repeating until the draw stops, this is the bad component.
I would start with any aftermarket electrical components. Alarm's, radio's, etc. Then I would disconnect and check for draw on any component that get's power when car is off. Horn, light's, brake light switch (usually located towards top of brake pedal), radio, cigarette lighter, etc...Disconnect each component separately and check for current draw.