I have a proline pump an it is leaking from the 3/8 inch quarter slot plug and o ring where can i get a new one

Yes. The way to tell if they are flared they are a pressure fit, no O ring. If they are the same diameter on the end with a sort of flange about a quarter inch back they use an O ring

This sounds like you have a bad seal in your pump and the loose piece is probally a piece on the shaft of the motor called a water slinger. This is just there in case your seal goes bad and leaks water it will spin with the motor and sling the leaking water out and away from the motor so a small leak does not ruin your motor. But you will still need to replace your seal and "O" ring.

Yes the tank must be removed

Fuel Pump: Service and Repair
WARNING: The fuel system is under constant pressure, even when the engine is OFF. Always release fuel pressure before servicing any fuel
system component.
FUEL PUMP REMOVAL
1. Release fuel system pressure.
2. Fuel tank must be removed prior to fuel pump service.
3. Using a hammer and a brass drift, carefully tap the fuel pump lock-ring counter-clockwise to release the fuel pump.
4. Remove the fuel pump and its O-ring from the fuel tank, and discard the old O-ring.
5. Cover tank openings to prevent dirt from entering system.
FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT REMOVAL
1. Gently bend the sending unit locking tabs away from the sending unit.
2. Remove the electrical connector cover (red). Remove the sending unit wires from the electrical connector.
3. Use one screwdriver to push on the fuel pump body, and use another to release the sending unit locking tab from the sending unit.
4. Slide the sending unit assembly off of the fuel pump reservoir housing.
5. Pull the wires through the reservoir body and fuel pump cover plate.
FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT INSTALLATION
1. Bend the sending unit wires and lay them into the slot on the back of the sending unit.
2. Slide the sending unit into the slots on the fuel pump reservoir body. Slide the wires through the triangle shaped hole in the fuel pump reservoir
body. Check that the tab in the fuel sending unit locks into the detent in the fuel pump reservoir body.
3. Slip the wires onto the tab of the fuel pump reservoir body.
4. Slide the sending unit wire terminals into the electrical connector. Install the terminal locking cover.
5. Slide the fuel sending unit electrical connector into the bottom of the fuel pump electrical connector. Check that the connectors are securely
attached and fully pushed into each other.
FUEL PUMP INSTALLATION
1. Wipe seal area of tank clean, and install a new O-ring seal on pump.
2. Position fuel pump module in tank and secure with the lock-ring.
3. Using a hammer and a brass drift, carefully tap the fuel pump lock-ring clockwise to lock the module in place.
NOTE: Do not overtighten the lock-ring, because the fuel pump seal could split and leak.
4. Install fuel tank assembly.
NOTE: ASD and fuel pump relays remain energized for 7 minutes during the following test, unless the test is stopped or the ignition switch is
turned to the OFF position.
5. Using scan tool, place ignition switch in "RUN" position and use Actuate Output Test "Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay", to activate fuel pump and
pressurize system.
6. Check for leaks.

The pump seal is bad on the unit. This requires disassemble of the pump unit. Remove power to the unit, dissasemble pump housing, remove the impeller from the shaft of the motor by removing the allen screw with an allen wrench. Seperate pump housing from motor remove the old seal replace seal. Lube motor shaft with a little clean oil or wd40 to facilitate easy install thru new seal,reassemble in reverse.

your belt is to tight and your burning up bearings ease up on tension. use 3/4 inch play at least

F21 error means the drain pump is not working correct. This is normally from hair, change, sock or something clogging the pump.

Here is one guy account on how to repair it. Enjoy.

When my F21 showed up, the washer would not do anything. It would turn on, two relays clicked, it would then HUM. I am guessing that this washer is SMART. It will test if the washer water exit pump will indeed pump. The machine figures, if it can't pump water out, there is no use in filling and starting up in the first place, so it plays DEAD and flashes the F21 code. If it will not pump, then it will not spin or do anything. If the pump will not spin, then the machine will NOT start the cycle and allow water to come on or spin. It will just HUM and finally, it will flash the F21 and the machine will just sit there. Unplugging it and plugging it back in will not help. Why does the pump not spin? As others have noted, it is probably impacted with debris. Ours had a huge hairball in it from washing a piece of carpet MONTHS ago.

Objective: Clear pump of debris. Tilt machine. Take off front panel. Unscrew large white drain plug. Remove debris.

First, unplug the machine and turn off the water supplies on the hot and cold.

Here is how I pulled out the hairball. The machine is full of water. The objective is to not mess with the water. So, pull the whole machine forward about 3 to 4 feet. Then, tilt the machine back, so that the top of the machine is hitting the wall and the machine is now at a 45 degree angle. This raises the front bottom of the machine where you can get to it. Have an assistant hold the machine there, even though it will balance perfectly, it can fall on you. You are leaning it back to gain access to (3) quarter inch screws holding on the front cover at the very bottom of the front cover and you avoid taking the machine out of the plastic pan.

Once the machine is tilted back, take out the 3 metal pan head self taping screws with a 1/4 inch socket. The front bottom panel will come right down. On the right is a large knob on one side of the pump about 1.5 to 2" in diameter. Turn this Counter clock wise slowly as you are moving an O ring which seals it. About three or four turns and it comes out. Remove all the junk in there - pennies, hair, wool.
Now, put the cover back on. Note - it is keyed. Match the ridge on the plug with the slot on the receiver. Now, push it in gently while turning clockwise. Be careful to push it in firmly but not harshly as there is an "O" ring sealing it against leaks and you don't want to nick the O ring. Put the front cover back on by first putting the top of the cover into the slots with the pins protruding from the front cover on the the receiving holes on the machine below the round door and then securing the bottom of the front access door with the three self taping screws with the 1/4 inch socket. No not over tighten. Just make them snug.

Let the machine down gently, realize it can slam down on your foot.

Push it back to where it was, use the dryer as an example.
Plug the machine back in. Turn on the water supplies for hot and cold.

Now, put the machine back onto the wash cycle. Press power and start. It will first drain out the old water. Now, add the HE detergent and your load will finish as normal.

most times you can fit a generic brand pump,take it with you when you buy another one.where do you live i may be able to help.ps was the pump leaking and causing it to trip the power.

Ok..This is gonna take a while to fix so i am assuming you had some energy drink before trying...

Solution is to Clear pump of debris. Tilt machine. Take off front panel. Unscrew large white drain plug. Remove debris.

First, unplug the machine and turn off the water supplies on the hot and cold.

Here is how I pulled out the hairball. The machine is full of water. The objective is to not mess with the water. So, pull the whole machine forward about 3 to 4 feet. Then, tilt the machine back, so that the top of the machine is hitting the wall and the machine is now at a 45 degree angle. This raises the front bottom of the machine where you can get to it. Have an assistant hold the machine there, even though it will balance perfectly, it can fall on you. You are leaning it back to gain access to (3) quarter inch screws holding on the front cover at the very bottom of the front cover and you avoid taking the machine out of the plastic pan.

Once the machine is tilted back, take out the 3 metal pan head self taping screws with a 1/4 inch socket. The front bottom panel will come right down. On the right is a large knob on one side of the pump about 1.5 to 2" in diameter. Turn this Counter clock wise slowly as you are moving an O ring which seals it. About three or four turns and it comes out. Remove all the junk in there - pennies, hair, wool.
Now, put the cover back on. Note - it is keyed. Match the ridge on the plug with the slot on the receiver. Now, push it in gently while turning clockwise. Be careful to push it in firmly but not harshly as there is an "O" ring sealing it against leaks and you don't want to nick the O ring. Put the front cover back on by first putting the top of the cover into the slots with the pins protruding from the front cover on the the receiving holes on the machine below the round door and then securing the bottom of the front access door with the three self taping screws with the 1/4 inch socket. No not over tighten. Just make them snug.

Let the machine down gently, realize it can slam down on your foot.

Push it back to where it was, use the dryer as an example.
Plug the machine back in. Turn on the water supplies for hot and cold.

Now, put the machine back onto the wash cycle. Press power and start. It will first drain out the old water. Now, add the HE detergent and your load will finish as normal.