Power comes on but when any of the other knobs are pressed it not coming on

Sometimes it is a seized shaft, does the blade turn by hand?
It could be the motor has failed, or the start capacitor on the motor.
It could be the electronics.

There's a safety lock built into the handle of the jug. If the jug cover doesn't key into the lock properly, the motor base won't start.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Russell+Hobbs+RHB315+Blender+not+working

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If it is brand new I would take it back.

Same thing happened to me. Opened it up and along the red wire to the motor is a bass fuse. Went to the hardware store and then I replaced it. Works fine.

When the lights are flashing, this does indicate that an electronic part has failed. This blender is no longer manufactured, so finding replacement parts for it may not come easily. Repair centers are available. I would recommend calling Kitchenaid Customer Service to see what they can recommend for you.

Their toll-free number is 1-800-541-6390.

I had the same problem with BL6000 model. After using the blender few times it went dead, though on occasions it ran for a couple of seconds or so. I opened the base and saw the red light come on and off in response to pressing the buttons, but the blender would not run. I checked the connections and resistances across various points, and then decided to bypass the digital control panel by joining the blue (AC) and black (motor) wire terminals, as the control panel must be altering the frequency or voltage going across this connection into the field coils (and also to rotor). The motor is rated at 120V. The motor ran perfectly, though i let it run only briefly, confirming that it itself is all right. I think one must check a step further by studying the current and voltage characteristics to ensure that the motor does not consume more than rated 550 watts if you do not wish to buy the digital control panel ( part number BL5000-01-01, available through partstore.com or black and decker partner site. It should fit BL6000 as per partstore.com). The motor seems like an univeral motor. If anyone knows more about motors and has the same problem, then pl let me know if bypassing the digital control panel and using an external switch to shut the motor on and off is a good idea (digital panel and shipping will buy an equivalent blender in stores, about $18). I am afraid that if digital control panel does not let unregulated power be delivered to the field (and rotor) coils, then one may be putting too much power into the motor and it may burn out prematurely.

Do you hear it hum when you try to turn it on?
If yes, remove the cup. Try again... if the motor runs, try moving the blade by hand. If it is seized, remove it and clean it to free it again.
If not, possibly blown windings on the motor or divider circuit (which supplies different voltages to the motor for the different blend speeds). Repair will be required in either case.

either the motor is inoperable, or is improperly wired. return it to the retailer. that is assuming you have the cup firmly seated before you try to operate the machine.also if the control panel has more than one speed make certain that only one button, or switch position is engaged

i had the same problem after only one month, took in back to walmart and they would do nothing. i love the big heavy glass jar on this model so i baught another on thinking i broke it some how and guess what, the second one stopped after one and a half months. called around and no one would do anything for me, company sucks, i took the bottom cover off the blender to expose the problem and there is a problem with the curcuit board and built in breaker. i ripped out all the speed buttons and curcuit board and just wired in a on/off switch to the motor. works great again. i still had a extra broken blender so i took a old chain saw i had and turned that one into a gas powered blender. problem solved, any questions please feel free to ask, [email protected]

I have had my blender sitting for over a year ( only used it once ) because of the same problem and asked my husband to take a look at it... he opened it ... cut the zip ties took the metal banding off ( note only one side of the motor has the metal banding). What you need to get at is behind the first (I think) resistor. Behind that is a thermal fuse (found at radio shack part # 270-1320 about $1.96). you will need some kind of tester to check the ohms going through it (should read zero) the bad one on mine read 334 ohms and you will need a soldering iron to put it back together. Actually a good project for someone who loves to tinker with this.