3 lights to a 3-gang (3 swi tches). Replacing switches. Current switches>2 have 2 blk wires & no ground wire. 3rd switch has a ground wire. New switches all have a ground wire. Should I wire all 3 grounds to supply line ground?

Is original a 3-way dimmer (2 or more switches control same light fixture)?

Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#gang

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3-gang-box-800.jpg

You have to test which wire is neutral.... usually white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut in back of box.
Hot wire with test 120volt to neutral.
Hot wire will test 120volt to ground.

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Your switch has 2 wires, and 2 brass screws, and new switch will have same.
Connect either wire to new switch.
Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
Turn power off, remove screws that hold switch into box, pull out switch, take photo of wiring, install new switch.
If wires are pushed into back of switch, then use small screwdriver and push into slot to release wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If you want to control both the light and the fan using 3-ways, then just wire 2 sets of the 3-way circuits. For this you need two sets of 3-wire between the switches, and one 3-wire cable from the switch location to the fan/light box.

At box #1 (a 2 gang box), you will run a power cable (marked cable #1) into it. From there you run 2 sets of 3-wire cables (identified as cable #2 & cable #3) to the other switch location, which will also be a 2-gang box (box #2).

Also from box #1, you will run a 3-wire cable (cable #4) to the fan/light box (box #3).

Hook up is as follows:

Box #3: connect black of cable #4 to black (fan), connect red of cable #4 to blue (light), connect white of cable #4 to white (fan/light), and connect the bare to the green.

Box #2: Connect white of cable #2 to identified terminal on 1st 3-way switch (#3). Connect red & black of cable #2 to the remaining screws of 3-way switch #3. Next connect white of cable #3 to identified terminal of 2nd 3-way switch (#4), and connect black and red to remaining screws. Tie all grounds together and terminate to both switches.

At box #1, connect black from cable #1 to whites in cables #2 & #3, using a wirenut. Connect white in cable #1 to white in cable #4. Connect black and red in cable #2 to 3rd 3-way switch (#1) and connect black and red in cable #3 to 4th 3-way switch (#2). Connect black in cable #4 to identified terminal of 3-way switch #1, and connect red in cable #4 to identified terminal on 3-way switch #2. Tie all grounds together and to the switches

Timer is not identified. Battery-operate timers wire differently than timers that require neutral wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html

For 4-wire battery-operated Intermatic EJ500, ST01C, and Ei600, Ei400 wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C

For 4-wire Intermatic Ei200 series, KM-series, Ei500 that require neutral wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/Programmable.html#wire

Add a comment with model number for more specific information

I don't know the copper-brand 1301 switch
Internet photos of the 1301 show that it has two screw terminals, and a green ground screw
Switch with 2 screws is a single-pole switch. (plug green ground screw)

Sounds like you are replacing 3-way switch with 3 screws. (plus green ground screw)
3-way switches control hallway lights, with switch at each end of hallway.

I think you need to buy a 3-way switch.

How to wire 3-way switch:
Bare ground always goes to green screw
The key is the dark-colored screw.
Old switch has dark-colored screw >> mark this wire.
Attach this wire to dark-colored screw on new switch.
Other two wires go to either screw.

As a precaution, always take photos of your wiring before replacing anything.
And when replacing 3-way switches, do 1 switch until it's right, and then do next switch.
That's for people who read this later.

Now let's get your wiring project finished.
Separate all the wires inside both boxes so you can test.
Is there a bare ground wire inside the box?
Are the boxes metal?
More later if you do not have a grounded box***

We are going to find the Hot wire from breaker box.
Use ordinary tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power
Turn on the power.
All your wires are separated and you do not have a metal screwdriver between your teeth.
You are standing on a dry indoor surface and are not touching anything metal
Power is ON
Test each wire to bare ground wire -or- to metal box
You are testing all 6 wires >> 3 wires for Switch 1 and 3 wires for Switch 2
One-and-only-one of the 6 wires will light up the tester
When tester lights up, that is the Hot wire from breaker.
Let's assume you can identify hot wire from breaker box (more later if needed)**

The hot wire from breaker box connects to the dark-colored screw on the new 3-way switch.
Look at your new 3-way switch >>> it has 1 dark screw and 2 brass-colored screws.
The Hot wire from breaker box connects to dark screw.
The other two wires connect to the two brass-colored screws in any order.

You connected these 3 wires with the power turned OFF

Now we have Switch 1 complete.
The other switch, Switch 2 is incomplete.
Three wires at Wwitch 2 are still separated so you can test.

Turn the power back on
We want to test the other three wires
Let's say Switch 1 is in UP position
Test three wires to bare ground or to metal box
Find which wire is HOT at Switch 2 location
Let's assume you can discover the Hot wire >>> mark this wire and it will connect to a brass-colored screw on Switch 2

Now let's move Switch 1 to the DOWN position
We changed the position of Switch 1 to DOWN, but we're still testing the wires at Switch 2 location

Re-test the remaining two wires at Switch 2 to see which is HOT
The remaining 2 wires >>> one of these wires will test Hot >> that wire goes to the other brass screw on Switch 2
So now you know both wires that connect to brass-colored screws on Switch 2
The remaining wire at Switch 2 connects to the dark-colored screw.

Whew, problem solved, time for a beer.

**But wait, how can you test for HOT if you don't have a ground wire -and- what if metal box was not grounded?
Hopefully you will have other wires covered with a wire nut or tape that are shoved to back of the box >>> you will have to pull those wire out. These will be the Neutral wires. Test your wires to the neutral just as if they were the ground wire. And then use same testing steps above.

Now it's time for a beer (or more depending on when guest are arriving)
Please reply back if you run into a snag.

before u start make sure power is off before working with electrical lines ---start with the 12/2 coming into box black [power] white [ground-neutral] and u will have 3 separate lines for the lights so u will have 4 lines total coming in the box== with the 3 light lines take the white and strip back the plastic and connect [wire nut] all 3 to the 12/2 white line --now take the 12/2 black line and connect it to the first switch gold color screw- bottom screw -now take some wire about 2-3 inch strip both ends and connect from the 12/2 black wire connection on the switch and connect to the gold /bottom of switch 2 than do the same for switch 3 connecting the wire from switch 2 so u will have power feeding all 3 switches-- now connect the black lines for the lights to the other side of each switch and ur done

Here you go:




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Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
BRN
9
Parklamp Feed
B
LT GRN
24
Backup Lamp Feed
C
BLK
750
Ground
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
BRN
9
Parklamp Feed
B
LT GRN
24
Backup Lamp Feed
C
BLK
750
Ground
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
BRN
9
Parklamp Feed
B
LT GRN
24
Backup Lamp Feed
C
BLK
750
Ground
Find 3 wire connector going to lense in trunk Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
BRN
9
Parklamp Feed
B
LT GRN
24
Backup Lamp Feed
C
BLK
750
Ground
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
BRN
9
Parklamp Feed
B
LT GRN
24
Backup Lamp Feed
C
BLK
750
Ground
brown wire light green wire & black blk is grd moke sure its good, lit grn back up lights,drk Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
BRN
9
Parklamp Feed
B
LT GRN
24
Backup Lamp Feed
C
BLK
750
Ground
brn tail lights turn parking lights on & with a test light back probe connector no power to brown? ck fuse trace harness to switch wires all good bad switch if you know how to use ohm meter you could use that to ck for shorts on continuity Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
BRN
9
Parklamp Feed
B
LT GRN
24
Backup Lamp Feed
C
BLK
750
Ground