Do I need to remove grub damaged grass and if so, how deep?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iK_vN0l2RvA

Likely the crows are after the grubs growing just below the surface. Check for grubs and treat as required.

Check the blades are not bent or damaged, if ok check the deck alignment from side to side, measure the distance from the floor to the tip of the blade with the blade facing forward check both r/h and l/h blades.

Hi Andrew:
It is quite possible that the blade is bent or the metal "grass discharge guide" has been damaged.
If you have a pickup truck handy and you can put the mower facing outward on the tailgate, this procedure is easier.
- remove the spark plug lead to ensure that the mower cannot accidentally start.
- Push the handle down so that the mower is tilted back and the underside of the cutting deck is exposed.
- slowly rotate the blade and see where it contacts (or has been contacting any metal parts.
- remove and replace the blade if it has been bent. (They can be straightened but it is not recommended)
- Use 2 hammers (one as a "dolly") to straighten or repair any bent sheet metal.
- Replace the plug lead and go cut grass.
Cheers

Hi,

I will try to help, but ?

Why do you need to do this would be the first question ?

A lot of maintenance can be carried out without dismantling the unit.
Their are also lots of special techniques for free jammed parts without a full strip down ?

email [email protected] and let her know what the issue is and the engineers will discuss it with you for FREE before your start ( IF you want to of course)

1st Rule : As a general rule, everything is fixed with either grub screws or screws, most are small and some are hidden under caps or labels

2nd Rule : DO NOT use cheap or inappropriate tools : you will damaged the instrument and then someone like us has to drill them all out at substantial cost.

3rd Rule : LInt free high quality cloths, propanol only for glass and lenses.

4th Rule : TAKE PICTURES of everything as you dismantle it so you have a visual record of the project

Lower housing around the bottom lense will normally screw off, however it will be secured with grub screws or screws so you will need small alan keys or screwdriver to remove. They screws do not have to be taken out completely.

The eyepiece tubes will also screw out , but again check for screws and grub screws acting as locking nuts.

The main focus knobs, normally have a plastic cover at the end that needs to be taken off and you will find compression fittings with either a grub screw , knut or screw . these need to be removed and pulled off, gently but be firm.

The main body should be screwed : Remove again with a high quality x driver (Phillips) (It will not be a PZ head for the screw)

Question is now what ??

Hope it helps

I feel you have burnt the motor out. You cannot over work an electric motor with out doing damage. The smoke tells me you have burnt it.
Sorry They are not made for long grass. An electrition tells me electric motors are not made to take apart.

check the clutch the the starter engages into for binding

You can. I would recommend waiting a bit until the new grass is somewhat better established, but if you are following the application instructions, the worst harm will come from the applicator wheels. Not sure what the current temps are there in NY, but they are ideal for reseeding here in WA.
Happy trails, Farmerbear at FixYa.com

In terms of grubworm control, 'milky spore' products are bacterium meant to create a long-term soil-borne epidemics amoung grubs in the soil. Milky spore very likely will not kill existing populations that're eating at turf roots & thus, doing damage.
But milky spore is an environmentally-conscious product, and certainly a wise long-term investment for those who've put a lot of investment in their lawns.

In leiu of milky spore, I recommend any product containing Dylox for active infestations.
Milky spore may be applied in that same season in an attempt to start that longer-term, human & pet-safe grumworm contagion.

It is perfectly normal to see small numbers of grubs in the soil, in both turf & landscape. In small numbers, grubs are generally harmless. The concern mounts when their numbers are higher.

This is how to check for actively feeding grubs:
In turf areas that are turning brown, get on your hands & knees and take the turf into both hands, and pull.
If the turf readily comes up as if it's carpet, you'll likely see the "lawn shrimp" (haha) underneath.
In a 12" x 12" section, if you see more than 2 grubs, it's time to take action.

Answers:
1) No. After applying Dylox & watering in per instructions, wait approx 1 week to 10 days, then peel back some of those sod areas again.
If it's working, the grubs will have slowly turned from an ugly grey to a light beige, and shrunken somewhat.

2) No. Moisture on grass at time of application doesn't matter. What matters is that you irrigate thoroughly AFTER application.

3) Actually, it is to your advantage if adjacent soil areas aren't treated with milky spore. If ALL grubs are killed, then there will be no carriers to continue the bacterial contagion. Even if your neighbors are grub-free, keep in mind that Japanese, June beetles, masked chafer, etc will drop eggs into the turf season after season. (There's nothing you can do about that.) And these eggs will eventually metamophecize into grubs. If you have milky spore in the soil, they shouldn't mature to the point to which they'll feed.

4) Products containing Dylox are labelled to kill grubs of all species of beetle. At about the time you're seeing June beetles swarming your back porch light, they're likely laying eggs in the turf. Most species of grubworm potentially can do damage 2X year:
JUST before the adults emerge, and about a month to six weeks after the maximum height of adult population.
Here in s. Ohio, late September thru first ground freeze tends to be historically the worst peroid for grubs. But some years, mid to late spring damage can be found, too.