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After jacking the truck up and removing the tire look on the studs for the bolts to see if you see little flat wire clips on the tire studs if so remove them and then you should be able to pull the drum and it should come off. If it don't then you will have to release the pressure from the brakes against the drum. If the truck has had brakes put on before and the back plate adjustment hole have been cut out you can hold the automatic adjuster out of the way with a screwdriver and back the adjustment cylinder off with another screwdriver to release the brake pressure. Hope this helps.
the pads don't need to be removed. Most brakes have a "quick release" on them. On linear pull brakes, use one hand to squeeze the two lever against the rim and with your other hand you can pull the "L" shaped cable noodle out the bracket and this releases the brakes. (you can also let the air out of the tire and install the wheel then reinflate the tire once you have it back on the bike). On road bikes with side-pull brakes most have a small lever you can flip up that activates a cam mechanism that opens the brakes up to allow the tire to pass through. Canti-lever brakes are similar to linear-pull brakes, just squeeze the brakes together and release the straddle cable. Hope this helps.
two bolts...probably 5/8th socket size need to be loosened to almost off the end of the axle. You will have to release the brake either at the brake grip witch could be a quick release that pushes to the side or at the back brake itself by squeezing the brakes in with your hand and removing the cable. Push the wheel forward and down while pulling the derailer out of the way (extend it backward). Once the wheel is out a tire removal kit works the best (if careful two flat blade screwdrivers work) to not damage the rim, tube further or the tire itself. Position one screwdriver in between the tire and the rim, catch the edge of the tire and pry it outside of the rim (they are pliable so don't worry about damaging). Keep the first driver in place and grab onto a second position on the tire and pry it the same way about 8 inches away from the first. Remove the whole tire on one half and remove the tube. Replace or patch the tube and put back together.
2000 Ford Focus DrumRemovalProcedureIf removing the drum to service the rear brakes: (note, do not remove hub retaining nut for this procedure) 1. Raise and support vehicle 2. Release the parking brake 3. Remove wheel and tire 4. Disconnect wheel speed sensor wiring harness from wheel knuckle and floor panel. 5. Remove 4 wheel spindle attaching bolts, then the wheel hub and drum assembly from vehicle. 6. Reverse procedure to install noting the following: a. Torque wheel spindle retaining nut to 49 ft. lbs. b. Torque wheel/tire assembly to 94 ft. lbs. 2000 Ford Focus DrumReplacementProcedureIf replacing the drum and wheel bearing assembly: 1. Raise and support vehicle 2. Release the parking brake 3. Remove wheel and tire 4. Remove center dust cap. 5. Remove hub retaining nut. 6. Remove drum and hub assembly. Ensure wheel speed sensor ring is not damaged when removing drum/hub (if equipped). 7. Reverse procedure to install noting the following: a. Inspect and clean wheel speed sensor ring if equipped. b. When tightening hub retaining nut, rotate the hub assembly in counterclockwise direction. c. Torque hub retaining nut to 173 ft. lbs. d. Torque wheel/tire assembly to 94 ft. lbs. e. Adjust parking brakes as necessary.
If the quick release is truly loose, from the rear just lift the bike by the left side of the seatstay (or what would be a seatstay if itwasn't rear suspended) and rotate the rear derailleur backward with your right hand. It should just fall out.
Google "remove rear wheel bicycle" for lots of advice in video form.
The parking brake is stuck.remove tire and remove hub may take persuassion then with pliers pull up on parking brake releasing wheel.cause is because self adjusters in rear brake is bad.I have a 1999 and a 2001 sephia love them.
Yeah, just trace the cable back to the right rear tire, remove yuor tire and you'll see where it hooks up. You'll need to replace the whole cable, not just splice.
Firstly it might be an idea to release the brakes so you can get the vehicle to a suitable place for repair. Something has gone wrong in the brake master cylinder or the pressure valve (if fitted) although I suspect the former. The hydraulic pressure can be released by loosening the nut on the brake pipe that goes to the rear brakes or undoing the bleed nipples on the rear cylinders a couple of turns. Try to bleed the brakes enough to get them working and then drive to a place of repair. Otherwise remove the master cylinder, strip down and repair or replace.
Its A Rear Tire Id Guess Its Gotta Be A Problem With The Brakes And Not The Brake Pad. I Would Recommend Taking It To A Mechanic If Thats Not An Option Get The Book. Jack Up The Vehicle And Remove The Suspicious Tire. Mark One Spot On The Drum And One Spot On The Center Hub. Then Check The Inside Of The Drum Once Removed And Inspect it Also Check Your Brake Pads. Not Many People Know That Drum Pads Release Outward Instead Of Inward Like Disc Brakes. Hopefully This Will Help You
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