Have 3 wires: white w/black stripe, yellow w/gray stripe, and solid gray with plastic end cap.. switch has 3 blade plugins labeled: RO... PR... and V1 with number 2 beside plug...
SOURCE: 3 prong dryer to 4 prong
green is ground, white is netural. red and black are L1 and L2
or in other words on the dryer there is a 3 screw holder red and black go on the outer ones white goes in the middle and green goes to the cabinet of the dryer
SOURCE: 2 wire from house 3 wire at stove
Okay, the normal color coding for a 220-240VAC receptacle is as follows:
White (Neutral) - 0VAC
Black (HOT) - 110 VAC
Red (HOT) - 110 VAC
I suspect that the two black wires from your power panel are the two hot leads in your case. That is...each one should read 110-120VAC. Verify this my measuring each black lead to ground. The copper wire is probably a ground or neutral. It sounds like this is an older house (?).
The following link will give you some advice as well:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion
In addtion, the electric service for major appliances like a Range or Dryer should have its OWN dedicated circuit to prevent overloading. I hope you find this information helpful. If you have questions, please let me know.
SOURCE: I wired up the the Fridgedaire wall oven and it
the unit is 240 volts not 120 volts/its ok to have the wht and green tied together so long as it comes directly from the house main panel/new law in some places require them to be separate/wht=Neutral/Green=safety grd to case...now how many watts does this unit draw? 2/12 wires sound awful small for the input current/sounds like you need to upgrade to atleast 2#6 wires for power/1#8 for neutral and atleast a #10 for safety ground
SOURCE: need to know how replace a 3 prong plug on my
On libnk below tells you how to change the plug. Step 8
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Kinston/154427301b.pdf
Good Luck
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SOURCE: no power to controls
Hello - Before performing any maintenance or work on the dishwasher, please disconnect power to unit! Edges of door may pose a cut hazard, use gloves or a heavy cloth when grabbing edges. Remove Covering (i.e. outer door, console, kickplate) to access load that is not switching. >Is the electrical device connected to the harness? If <YES> Loosen the screws on the C-arm, push the door down & tighten the screws to align the door with strike, is the unit a pull latch Model? If <YES> You may possibly need to order an angled striker Part # 154544601 (part number can be different depending on your model number). If <NO> Bend the striker down to align with the center of door slot. If the electrical device is NOT connected to the harness; connect the harness to the electrical device. Replace all coverings and reconnect power to the unit. Put the unit into water service test. Step through test and determine which Load is not switching. Should this prove to be unsuccessful I suggest contacting a professional to move forward accurately.
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