How are water valve tubes connected?

Sounds like a clog, either the drain tube, drain hose, or drain pump/diverter valve.

1. If your drain hose is connected to a drain tube/pipe, it's possible there's a clog in the plumbing somewhere. Running a snake through the drain tube should fix this
2. Disconnect the drain hose and look for a blockage. Sometimes lint, or paper will become lodged inside the hose and water will back up
3. The drain pump/diverter valve is a common place for a backup to occur. To inspect the drain pump, unplug the machine and disconnect the drain hose from the drain tube. Put down a blanket or towel and tilt the machine forward. At the bottom of the machine you will see the drain pump with a hose connected by a clamp. Using pliers, disconnect the clamp. There may also be a mounting screw holding the drain pump in place. Unscrew the mounting screw. Now the pump should pull away freely. Using a small flathead screwdriver or tweezers or even needlenose pliers, you should be able to dig out any obstruction. Typically paper that has fallen out of pockets will get stuck in the drain pump forcing water in the other direction, causing it to spill out onto the floor.
   

Below is a helpful video to both check and remove a drain pump / diverter valve.

Hello,
I know that seems like the incorrect part but it replaces the water valve that had 2 outlet hoses connected to it. To replace that;
Turn off house water supply to old valve and disconnect tubing
remove old valve and unplug the 2 wire connections and the 2 outlet hoses
The two outlet hoses were what was considered a Y hose..cut off semi clear plastic tubing a inch back where the 2 semi clear plastic tubes merge and become only 1
pull one of the plastic nuts off of the Y tube
slip it onto the end of the newly cut single tube
slip single tube into outlet threaded outlet of new valve and tighten that plastic nut
connect the 2 wire plugs onto new valve
remount to back of refrig
attatch house water supply to metal fitting that has/had protective rubber cap over it (oh of course remove procetive rubber cap and discard it)
turn water supply back on
it may up to 4 hrs for water to flow to icemaker so best to test by dispensing water through freezer door

Good luck,any questions or problems please reply and i'll help you,
Gene

There should be a small flexible tube/hose that came with this and goes over where the water is spraying out, it should look like a little nipple, the hose goes on there and then to the white tube appoximately an inch or so in diameter that goes to the bottom of the tank where the flapper ball is connected. The small flexible tube is supposed to connect to the top of the larger tube via a clip so-as to fill the toilet bowl back with water. If everything is connected like it's supposed to be then you might have a cracked fluidmaster.

Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector.
   
3. Disconnect the breather hose from the valve cover.
   
4. Remove the air intake tube.
   
5. Disconnect the throttle cables by opening the throttle and moving the cable through the release slot.
   
6. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the throttle body.
   
7. Disconnect the Throttle Position (TP) sensor and the idle air control valve connectors.
   
8. Disconnect the coolant hoses from the throttle body.
   
9. Remove the throttle body and discard the gasket.
   
10. Remove the TP sensor.
    
11. Remove the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
    
12. Remove the throttle body retaining nuts.
    
13. Remove the throttle body.
    

To install:

1. Install the throttle body.
   
2. Connect the TP sensor connector and the IAC valve connector.
   
3. Connect the coolant hoses to the throttle body.
   
4. Connect the vacuum hoses to the throttle body.
   
5. Connect the throttle cable.
   
6. Install the air intake tube.
   
7. Connect the breather hose to the valve cover.
   
8. Connect the IAT sensor connector.
   
9. Connect the negative battery cable.
   
10. Fill the cooling system
    
11. 
12. i hope this helps tps is attatched to hrottle body on other side than throttle cable
    
13. plz dont forget to vote rep[ly if you need more help
    

5.2L and 5.9L Engines
See Figure 6

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Open the radiator valve and drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the cooling fan and shroud as an assembly.
4. Remove the accessory drive belt.
5. Remove the water pump pulley from the hub.
6. Disconnect the hoses from the water pump.
7. Loosen the heater hose coolant return tube mounting bolt and nut and remove the tube. Discard the O-ring.

Fig. Fig. 6: Water pump mounting bolt locations

1. Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
2. Loosen the clamp at the water pump end of the bypass hose. Slip the bypass hose from the water pump while removing the pump from the engine. Discard the gasket.

To install:

1. Clean all gasket mating surfaces.
2. Guide the water pump and new gasket into position while connecting the bypass hose to the pump. Tighten the water pump bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
3. Install the bypass hose clamp.
4. Spin the water pump to ensure the pump impeller does not rub against the timing chain cover.
5. Coat a new O-ring with coolant and install it to the heater hose coolant return tube.
6. Install the coolant return tube to the engine. Ensure the slot in the tube bracket is bottomed to the mounting bolt. This will properly position the return tube.
7. Connect the radiator hose to the water pump.
8. Connect the heater hose and clamp to the return tube.
9. Install the water pump pulley and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
10. Install the accessory drive belt.
11. Install the cooling fan and shroud.
12. Fill the cooling system.
13. Connect the negative battery cable.
14. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Hope helps.

I'm assuming that your Jeep have a 5.2L V8 engine (as mine), then check this procedure...

Grand Cherokee 5.2L Engines
(see Figure 6)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Open the radiator valve and drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the cooling fan and shroud as an assembly.
4. Remove the accessory drive belt.
5. Remove the water pump pulley from the hub.
6. Disconnect the hoses from the water pump.
7. Loosen the heater hose coolant return tube mounting bolt and nut and remove the tube. Discard the O-ring.

Fig. 6: Water pump mounting bolt locations

1. Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
2. Loosen the clamp at the water pump end of the bypass hose. Slip the bypass hose from the water pump while removing the pump from the engine. Discard the gasket.
   

To install:

1. Clean all gasket mating surfaces.
2. Guide the water pump and new gasket into position while connecting the bypass hose to the pump. Tighten the water pump bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
3. Install the bypass hose clamp.
4. Spin the water pump to ensure the pump impeller does not rub against the timing chain cover.
5. Coat a new O-ring with coolant and install it to the heater hose coolant return tube.
6. Install the coolant return tube to the engine. Ensure the slot in the tube bracket is bottomed to the mounting bolt. This will properly position the return tube.
7. Connect the radiator hose to the water pump.
8. Connect the heater hose and clamp to the return tube.
9. Install the water pump pulley and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
10. Install the accessory drive belt.
11. Install the cooling fan and shroud.
12. Fill the cooling system.
13. Connect the negative battery cable.
14. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Other details can find in your repair manual ZJ-Secc-7-Cooling-System

Hope thats help.

Turn off the water supply and check for cracked or broken water tubing/line. Make certain that there is teflon (white) tape on threads connecting water inlet hose from shut off valve at wall to water valve at refrigerator. If there is no apparent damage to tubing or hose, then your problem may be with a water valve solenoid that is not seating/closing tightly. Replace the water valve assembly, if necessary.

Note: If plastic tubing is damaged, etc., you can splice the tubing with a "coupler" and/or more tubing purchased from Home Depot or Lowe's.

Every washer has a water level switch. These switches work by air pressure. As water rises in the tub, air trapped in the pressure tube on bottom of the tub is squeezed till it makes a lever inside the water level switch kill the power to them water valve solenoids and shift the power over to the motor. Sand and sediment will get into the sump where that tube connects blocking the air and so the switch dont know when to shut off. Disconnect the hose at the water level switch and blow out the stuff on bottom of tub. Reconnect the tube securely and pump out any water in the tub. Restart the machine.
SOME REPAIR PIX


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SECTION 303-08: Engine Emission Control 1999 Cougar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Removal

1. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube.
   1. Disconnect the intake air bypass hose.
   1. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation hoses.
   1. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube.

1. Disconnect the tube from the exhaust gas recirculation valve.

1. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation valve.
   • Disconnect the vacuum hose.

Installation

1. CAUTION: When cleaning the gasket faces, do not allow debris to enter the intake manifold or exhaust gas recirculation valve.
   Clean the gasket faces of the intake manifold and exhaust gas recirculation valve.

1. Install a new exhaust gas recirculation valve gasket.

1. Position the EGR valve and install the bolts.
   • Install the vacuum hose.

1. Connect the EGR tube.

1. Install the idle air control valve. For additional information, refer to Section 303-14A . For additional information, refer to Section 303-14B .

Here are a couple of things you can check to hopefully get to the bottom of your problem....

First of all, try unplugging the washer. Is the water still entering the washer? If so, you should replace the water valve, as it appears it may be stuck open. It's the plastic piece where the water lines are attached to the washer.

If this is not the case, then there may be a problem with your water level control. It's a fairly simple apparatus usually located inside the panel. You'll be able to identify it by a small hose (about 1/4 inch or so in diameter) connecting it to the basin. Check and make sure the hose is attached and isn't broken or pinched. If so, the washer isn't aware the water level has risen to it's pre-set level and like the Little Engine That Could, it will keep filling. :(

If the hose is attached, another little trick to use is to disconnect the hose from the basin, turn the washer on, and while the water is filling the machine, blow gently into the hose to try and trip the switch. If nothing changes and the water doesn't stop filling, the problem may lie in the water level switch itself.

I hope this helps! :) Let me know if I can be of further assistance!