Rubber grommet found in the dishwasher - what is it and where does it go?

There is a large rubber grommet on the bottom of the oil filler tube and it may be cracked or missing. Some of them have a rubber o-ring instead of a grommet. Hope this helps.

Jack up the rear of the car. For safety's sake put jack stands supporting rear of car. Remove driver's side rear wheel. Pop of small plastic door around filler tube from inner fender( it just snaps back in place). Loosen hose clamp that secures the filler tube to the rubber boot inlet to fuel tank.

The top of the old filler neck is supported by a large round rubber grommet.where it sticks through the round hole into the filler area behind the filler door. This grommet is rubber, but has a steel band inside inside of it. This grommet just slides over the filler neck. Unplug the wire from the metal end of the tube that is plugged into the metal rim ( this is a ground for static electricity when you are fueling the car. Don't leave this out when re-assembling )

See if you can now push the old tube out( the grommet may push out staying on the tube ). If it will not come out, you may have to loosen the grommet by working on it up top to loosen it, and then pull the grommet off from the end of tube. Don't destroy it. It will need to be re-used.

Take the grommet, and push it onto the top of the new filler tube until it will go no further. Take some oil or transmission fluid, and coat the end of the filler tube where it will go into the lower rubber boot where the bottom of the filler tube goes into the gas tank. Also coat the inside of that rubber boot. Feed the new filler tube in from the top, twisting it some back and forth as you push down on it forcing into that lower boot, until that grommet fits snugly back into the hole supporting the top of the tube. Re-attach the static ground wire to the inside of the fender. Once the tube is fully seated in the top grommet, and the bottom of the filler is down into the rubber boot, tighten the hose clamp to secure the tube to the boot. Before you tighten that clamp, make sure the hole where the filling station nozzle goes into the tube, is on the bottom 6 o'clock position. Snap the little plastic door back on where the filler tube goes through the inner fender.

Do not force the tube when working with it, It is made of some sort of polyethylene, which is famous for nothing sticking to it very well. The top of the tube is a separate piece that is used on all kinds of other cars, so it is plastic welded, or glued to the tubes for specific applications. Any kind of glue or plastic welding on this material will not be a very strong bond, so treat it like it is a little fragile, because it is.. Odds are pretty good that many people were told that their initial problem was the gas cap, so they bought an aftermarket gas cap. I HIGHLY recommend either using the original GM cap if it still seals well, or buying a new one off of our favorite internet auction site. Again, this is because of the weak point where the top of the tube is attached to the rest of the tube body. The ratcheting action of the oem cap is much lighter than most of the aftermarket caps, and slips on and turns easier. I found that to be true, and that is why I was privileged to do this operation twice.

I have the exact same problem!!! Found 2 loose rubber bands, the bottom doesn't drain completely, and the dishes are left either dirty with a white film on them. Please help!

Remove Jack from front left hand fender area.There are 3 rubber grommets that attach to the vacum compressor , which you will see If you look immediately beneath the compressor location.Feed these grommets back up into the compressor location area from beneath, and hey presto you have loosened the vacum pump for removal.
Compressor is accessed by 2 large holes in bottom plate upon which the tyre jack sits.It will pull out through these holes with a bit of manouvering.Be warned its like doing keyhole surgery.

I had the same issue. I replaced the rubber grommet/seal on the soap dispensing door latch and the problem was solved.

Clean up the Pick Up Rubber.
When you are able to get the Pick Up Rubber out of the maschine rotate it 180 degrees an reinstall it. then the problem would be fixed.

ccarver96: 1st the radiator, unless it has been replaced with an aftermarket "all metal" radiator, is going to be aluminum with plastic tanks.
Your radiator should have large round pins about 2-3 inches long manufactured on the bottom plastic tank. You should have something similar on the top tank. These are out near the ends facing downward. for the bottom tank and straight up for the top tank. coming off the lower core support, there should be places with holes and there should be large rubber grommets which fit into the holes and then the pins for the radiator, fit inside the center of the grommets. This way you have rubber isolating the plastic from touching metal.
At the top, there will be brackets which will have rubber rings which fit inside the brackets and the rings fit over each pin on the top radiator tank. The brackets then are bolted to the upper tie bar of the core support. You now have a radiator which is secured within the body of the car but has rubber mounts which keep it from touching metal. That is what keeps the radiator from getting damaged.
If your radiator is getting damaged other than that, if it is touching the body at any other point, the body has been damaged and needs to be repaired.
If the radiator is being blown apart from running hot, you need to have the cooling system checked or give me more input as to where the radiator is splitting. Is it splitting at the seems from heat?

The horn grommet retainer frame must be replaced due to detiorization of rubber spacers.

AEG Favorit 40850 i30 error - this is the anti-flood error. I did the tipping-over trick, great, but for me, the problem got more and more frequent until the machine would not run. So I took it apart and this is what I found: in the drainage area, next to the water drain, is a sensor. This has been described to me by a dealer as a 'temperature sensor'. I am not sure if this controls the anti-flood system, it may well do, as it is the only one in there. However, the problem is not caused by the sensor itself - around the sensor is a black rubber grommet (seal). In my machine (4 years old) this was badly perished - the rubber had become soft and oily, and about half of it had gone. The sensor itself was covered in oily goo from the grommet. I think that bits of the grommet have been coming off and jamming in the drain, and maybe causing the sensor itself not to work properly. I changed the grommet (£5 part), and it all works great. If you want to do this yourself, follow these instructions:

• turn off power and uplug dishwasher
• you need a screwdriver with torx bits
• put lots of old towels on the floor
• remove top panel using 2 screws at rear top, then push top backwards and lift off
• remove front base fascia panel by sliding to left
  
• remove right side panel - undo 2 screws at top, one at rear bottom, one at front bottom
• front edge of side panel is wedged inside white trim - just ease it out, it isn't held in.
• open dishwasher door and push down fully
• remove curved front base panel - undo screws right up at the top of the panel, this is a tight fit against the door but you can get in if the door is pushed down fully
• tip dishwasher over onto left side
• follow the drain pipe in, this takes you to the drain pump
• if you want to check the drain pump and pipe, twist the whole pump motor assembly to the left about 15mm - there are 3 tabs that hold it in place, you need to rotate the motor past the tabs, then you can pull it out
• DO NOT remove the spring clips on the large drain pipe (50mm diameter) between the pump motor and the dishwasher drain - these are very difficult to get back on properly, and once you have taken the pump motor off you can feel right through to the dishwasher drain hole anyway.
• you can take the spring clip off the white oultet hose if you want - this goes back on easily. Check the outlet pipe with a long drain-clearing spring or similar.
• about 50mm further towards the front of the machine from the drain hose, going around the drain assembly, is the sensor described above
• this has wires going into into it, is about 25mm diameter, and you will see the black rubber grommet around it
• this is held in place with 2 plastic clips, ease these back and pull it out. TAKE CARE not to break these clips.
• If the grommet is heavily worn or perished, you need a new one. The part number is written on the surface of the grommet.
• reassemble in reverse order. Before you put the panels back on, and with the power still OFF, tip the dishwasher back upright again, open the door, and pour 1 litre of water in (this will end up on your kitchen floor, so don't put too much in).
• Check carefully under the machine, with a torch, around the areas where you have been working - the sensor and the drain pipes - to make sure there are no leaks.
• If it all seems OK, dry the floor, turn the power on and run the dishwasher. MAKE SURE you are standing on dry floor when you do this. Check under the dishwasher again for leaks.
• Let the dishwasher run a complete cycle. Check for leaks when it is pumping out.
  
• If everything seems OK, turn the power off again, put the panels back on, then turn the power back on.

Good Luck!