We have a Panasonic WH-MDFF09E3E5 Heat pump, which has started to make some noises when it is not heating, we are getting a clicking from inside the r/h end of the cabinet, also there is what sounds like a motor starting and stopping, it will run for a few seconds and then stop, it will start again within a few seconds, the time it runs for varies, and we can hear it in the house, when the compressor is running, this is also more noisey thabn when it was fit, it is only 1 month old
Sounds like that's the relay clicking to run the blower motor .Check on your unit outside and see if the compressor is short cycling ,meaning it would run ,stop ,run ,stop .
If that's the case you have a bad install .
Maybe unit is shutting off on low pressure meaning no refrigerant. If that's the case you have a leak in the system that need to be fixed
SOURCE: NN-T990SA Panasonic Microwave Stopped Heating
This model uses an inverter to produce high voltage instead of a convential transformer system. While an inverter (switched-mode power supply) is more efficient from a power consumption standpoint, it is more complex, thus more statistically prone to fail. These should only be examined and worked on by someone who has the necessary technical qualifications. Seriously. Often the machine-soldered connections in a microwave inverter are too weak, so they eventually fail, especially if heat is high in the area. They sometimes fail catastrophically. When not catastrophically damaged, you may hear clicking or squealing and may smell an electrical odor, which is sometimes obscured by the cooling fan. Some manufacturers do not encourage or assist technicians to repair microwave inverters. Most offer the inverter as a whole assembly. But sometimes that is actually cheaper than the time and labor required to fix the old one. If a technician is willing and able to troubleshoot and repair the inverter to component level, it will may be expensive, but may be worth it, especially if he or she will resolder and reinforce connections as needed as part of a thorough repair. That could easily make your inverter beter than a new one! You might be able to get some verbal estimates if you call Panasonic-authorized repair shops and ask then specifically about inverter repair and inverter replacement costs for your model number.
SOURCE: Sears Kenmore 53652300, doesn't cool
This usually indicates that the compressor is working too hard and drawing too much current. The click that you hear is a safety shut-off. Possible causes of this are numerous and usually require having a professional come in to fix the issue, it can range anywhere from a faulty compressor to a bad start relay.
There is in most cases a temporary fix, it is called a hard start relay/capacitor. It is usually available from an appliance parts retailer for around $15 to $20. Installation instructions are included, just be sure to unplug your refrigerator first and make sure that someone following you can repair from where you left off. This relay assembly can normally get you up and running but it should not be used as a permanent fix. This will not correct for a refrigerant leak in the system.
Check your refrigerator owners manual before making any repairs or modifications to your refrigerator, there may be an extended warranty on the sealed system and compressor.
SOURCE: High Pressure cutoff
YOUR OUTDOOR FAN MOTOR SHOULD NEVER SHUT OFF IN THE AC MODE. IT IS SUPPOSED TO SHUT OFF IN THE HEAT MODE WHEN ITS IN DEFROST. IF THE UNIT IS RUNNING IN COOL AND THE OUTSIDE MOTOR QUITS ,THE COMPRESSOR WILL QUIT SOON AFTER. EITHER THE RUN CAPACITOR FOR THE FAN IS BAD OR THE FAN MOTOR ITSELF IS BAD, IF CAP IS GOOD THEN THE MOTOR IS At FAULT. THE OUTDOOR PRESSURE SWITCH CAN ALSO OPEN IF THE INDOOR FAN MOTOR FAILS IN HEAT OR THE FILTER IS PLUM NASTY in heat OR THE INDOOR COIL IS PLUGGED UP in heat.. THE PRESSURE SWITCH USUALLY TRIPS AT 400 TO 425 SO ITS WORKING CORRECTLY. YOU MAY BE CONFUSING THE ISSUE SAYING THAT THE AIR IS HOT AND COLD INSIDE. IT IS COLD WHEN AC IS RUNNING HOT WHEN HEAT PUMP IS RUNNING IN HEAT BUT ESSENTIALLY not cold or hot if compressor isn't running, but a lot of folks describe the lack of cold air as hot when the compressor isnt running. but it basically is warm or house air temp.you test the capacitor with a capacitor tester or take it to motor shop and let them test it. odds are its a 5 , 7.5 or a 10. it should test within 10 % of rated value . ask for a RESCUE brand replacement motor. they are great ,reversable etc.carefully oil and sand the motor shaft and note exactly where the blade was located in relation to the grill so you get it back just the same. usually they wire up black to a leg of 220 power. white to the other leg of 220 power. brown and brown with white stripe to the capacitor.you can also pull whole fan shroud assembly on some units and take whole thing to motor shop and let them test motor cap, replace and all you do is return to unit and connect two power leads,
SOURCE: axu heat and outside blower fan run all the time
I can tell you exaclty whats wrong . and it sounds like multipart problems. you have an old RUUD heat pump and its reversing vavle is stuck. without that valve opening it will contantly try to run in refrigerant mode to make heat. and here its 26 degrees, het pumps are only made to be effiient in over 34 degrees and that why your electric heaters in the blower section in an in a closit of unit
continously running up you eectric bill big time. cuses for the reversing valve to stick are sitting along time when it was low on refrigernt. or ust plain shut depending on its age. that cicking is the relay trying to open or close the reversing valve swict to make pressure again. any local guy an fix that one. theyre are kits called hard start kits that they hook up to them that shoot an extra zap of jiuse in it to try to free it up if its not totally lockd up being though that you still hear the relays pulling in and out thats good you may have just caught it in time.
now here is a quick test and possible cure but only if you what your doing turn both units off take off the top cover of the old rudd and get a small hammer not a sledgehammer and rap and tap all around the reversing valve. it will be a cylindrical tube black usually have sets of copper or brass tubings going in the 2 sides of this so dont hit itthat hard it gets dents it and is ruined. look for oil spots which uually means the refrigerant leaked out , and its seized up for good. they try spinning around the big out door fan door fan some. you may have to rock it back and forth Till it braks lose but dont put super human efort int it,
than put it all bak together making sure you connected wires back up right. go in and have you wife eithe watch it or you do it and switch the breker on and off about 8 times to trying to get the cnnectors switches to stay in and if your brave take a well insulated screw driver and hold them in for 2-4 miuntes to force it to work. if that doesnt do it call your local repairman and tell him you need a hard startkit only much safer, the cost about 40$ but you labor will be high if he is sent alone so may you can help im out and lessen your bill if the valve cant be made to work again. you may want start looking for prices with that model and serial number and d shut that electric heater off some one to replace it . I hope I helped you out some no charge ( I dont have my Pay Pal acct. set up yet ) good luck tom.
SOURCE: Heat pump fan does not run when house heat is on
The outside fan should be running except when the Heatpump goes in to defrost mode. Then the fan stops with the compressor running and it switches the reversing valve to heat up the outdoor coil. That should last about 5 min and you may see steam come off of the outdoor coil. That's normal.
Is the compressor running? It's possible that it's stuck in defrost or the fan simply died. I hope this helps.
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