How do i remove the cutting blade - Saniflo SaniPlus-Round SaniPlus Macerator Toilet with Round Bowl

Disconnect spark plug wire. Turn on side. Block blade from moving using a block of wood. Loosen blade blot with appropate wrench or hindge handle(breaker bar) and socket.

Adjust your blade. Remove it from the clipper, and then loosen (don't remove) the two screws that hold the blade and cutting edge together. Use a FLAT surface, like a ceramic sink top or flat piece of tile, and push the cutting edge down and angle the blade with the cutting edge facing the flat surface down to about a 30 to 35 degree angle. Use your thumb to hold in place until you can retighten the screws. Under a light, inspect to see if it is level (it will be noticeable if it isn't) or oil the blade and touch it to a clean dry piece of paper. If it is level, replace the blade on the trimmer, and edge your beard. It should be better than brand new. This also works when it doesnt seem like the blade is cutting sharp anymore. ALWAYS make sure the cutting edge is lower than the blade or you WILL CUT YOURSELF or YOUR CLIENT!

Cut or snap the blade off at the end so you can get the holder apart. I have had to do this before. Usually you can just use a set of pliers and work the blade back and forth until it snaps off but I just use an air powered cut-off tool and cut them.

Cole, The cut you are describing is challenging, but possible on a 20" scroll saw. First the blade--- you call this a hollow plank. If this is something like a hollow-core door, then the 1.5" thickness will be no problem. If you have to cut through a solid 1.5" (as you would at the edge) then you have a slow go of it unless you can find a pretty coarse pitch blade (big teeth). Second, making the turn----- assuming you are making this cut somewhere near the center of the 5' lenghth, then you won't be able to simply make a 90 degree turn after you cut the initial 5 inches. But you can make an approximately 60 degree turn, then stop the saw, leave the workpiece in place with the blade still in the cut, and reset the blade to cut sideways (so that the teeth of the blade are facing to your left or right rather than pointing toward you.) Before you make this blade turn, however, you should make the other 5 inch cut, so that you don't have to make the blade turn twice. Alternatively, if the 5 x 1.5 piece you are removing is just scrap, then you can make your two 5 inch cuts just converge to a point at the middle of the 1.5 inch line so that you can remove most of the scrap without moving the blade. Then you can reset the blade more easily with the workpiece removed from the saw. I hope you found this helpful.---- Oh, one more thing! The 1.5 inch part of the cut would be a lot easier simply by using a coping saw - they are about $15. Actually, you could do the whole cut with a coping saw. Good luck! Al K

Check your blade latch is working properly. If you took your clipper apart and your blades are not cutting it is one of 2 things. Your blade drive is not assembled properly or your blade latch is not holding the blade on the clipper. If you took your blade apart, check the blade alignment. The cutter blade needs to be slightly behind the comb blade.

The disc in the middle of the blade unscrews. A glancing blow with a rubber mallet will sometimes break it loose.

Clipper blade sharpeners are availale but the cost of these typically start at about $300 and go as high as several thousand dollars. This makes it unaffordable for home use.
For affordable, professional clipper blade sharpening, I suggest you contact the folks at clipperparts.com

Your clipper moves at just one speed. There is no way to 'speed it up' if it is working correctly.

take the blade disc off the mower, you should have the nuts on the top of the disc for the blades, put the disc on the ground and remove the nuts on the blades.
Replace the blades with the new ones and fit the disc back under the mower

They range in blade composition, number of teeth (cutting bits or surfaces), the amount of set (the width of the kerf removed by the blade), and the blade quality. * One of these circular saws will probably have a plain HSS (high speed steel) saw blade in it when it is bought new. * TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) blades are much more durable, especially in tough hardwoods. Also plywood and composite boards are hard on blades so TCT blades are needed on them. o Blades with fewer teeth (say 28) and with less rake to the face of the teeth, are designed for ripping along the length of timber, with the grain. They typically give a quick rough cut. They are cheap to buy and cheap to sharpen, since they have less teeth. o Blades with more teeth (say 40) are designed for crosscut type work. They give a lot neater cut in most circumstances. * Abrasive blades are made from carborundum or other abrasive materials bonded together in a resin or other synthetic binding material, and are used for cutting concrete or metal. They tend to wear away rather quickly, but for small projects, they are inexpensive and make fast cuts. * Diamond rim blades. These blades are made of special alloy metals with industrial diamonds embedded in the rim (around the outside diameter of the blade), and are for cutting hard concrete, cement composite materials, and masonry products like block or brick. * Special tempered allow blades. These blades have tempered carbon steel teeth, which are very fine (small, and closely spaced) for cutting sheet metal like galvanised roofing metal, or aluminum, copper, or brass tubing. * Dado blades. These are blades which can actually be adjusted to cut different width kerfs (the width of the material removed in the blade path). These blades make it much faster and easier for cutting dados and rabbetts, used for joining lumber. * Trim and panelling blades. These blades have fine teeth for making smooth, accurate cuts on finished materials like mouldings and panelling.

Use a pencil and straight edge to mark the cutting line on the wood. Place the wood on the saw table and line the mark up with the saw. Place the mark on the right side of the blade to ensure proper cutting. Plug the saw in and put on your safety goggles. Support the wood on the work surface with your left hand, placing it far from the saw blade. Place your right hand on the handle, and push the trigger to start the saw. Move the saw blade down onto the wood. Put constant pressure on the handle to slowly move the blade through the wood. Release the trigger and raise the blade once the cut is complete. Make diagonal cuts in the same manner, by marking the wood and lining the mark up just to the right of the saw blade. Continue as you would for a straight cut. Remove the wood from the saw. Unplug the chop saw and dust the sawdust off. Remove the dust bag from the back and empty it. Vacuum any remaining dust off of the saw.