Display led not working

install a new display board . thanks .

If your laptop power LED is lit then try different memory modules.
If no LEDs at all are lit then dead battery or bad chager.

An LED TV is still an LCD TV, just with LED backlighting. That model is an LCD TV. The difference is in the backlight. Both LED and LCD TVs use an LCD screen. LED TVs have LED backlighting of the LCD screen, which saves energy.

replace the power supply on the plasma TV

The SCR lower board is designed with diagnostic LED lights. The LED's are color coded according to
their specific function. Green indicates a properly operating treadmill; the green lights should always
be ON when power is supplied to the treadmill. Yellow indicates a treadmill function. Red indicates a
treadmill malfunction. Here is a list of each LED and what it signifies:
MOTOR (yellow) - The MOTOR LED illuminates when dc (direct current) voltage is sent to the drive
motor. The LED gets brighter when the dc output is increased.
RLC (yellow) - The RLC (R = Reactance / L = Inductance / C = Capacitance) LED illuminates when
the filtering system is properly working. The filtering system includes the capacitor and filter choke. If
there is a short in either component then the RLC light will not come on.
DN & UP (yellow) - The DN and UP LED lights tell us if the elevation DN and UP relays are
functioning properly. When the LED lights, it tells us that the relay has energized and is sending high
voltage (110vac or 220vac) to the elevation motor.
AC PWR (green) - The AC PWR (Alternating Current Power) illuminates when AC line voltage is
delivered to the treadmill. It then passes through the in-line fuse (110)/s(220) and lights the AC PWR
LED.
+12V (green) - When the proper AC voltage is delivered to the treadmill, passes through the in-line
fuse/s, through the full wave bridge rectifier (changes AC to DC), through the transformer (steps down
DC to +12vdc) then the +12V LED lights.
This the board LED, who control the signal for Main Motor+Elevation Motor. You must see, the LED DN+ UP( both will be Lit) in any position down or Up.
2) The RELAY board is designed with diagnostic LED lights. The LED's are color coded according to
their specific function. Green indicates a properly operating treadmill; the green lights should always
be ON when power is supplied to the treadmill. Yellow indicates a treadmill function. Red indicates a
treadmill malfunction. Here is a list of each LED and what it signifies:
AC PWR (green) - The AC PWR (Alternating Current Power) illuminates when AC line voltage is
delivered to the treadmill. It then passes through the in-line fuse (110)/s(220) and lights the AC PWR
LED.
VDC (green) - The VDC LED will light when it receives DC voltage from the DC power supply.
DN & UP (yellow) - The DN and UP LED lights tell us if the elevation DN and UP relays are
functioning properly. When the LED lights, it tells us that the relay has energized and is sending high
voltage (110vac or 220vac) to the elevation motor.
UPSW (green) - This LED will illuminate when the low voltage dc is delivered from the upper display
board to the elevation UP relay. This low voltage dc is what energizes the coil of the relay.
DNSW (green) - This LED will illuminate when the low voltage dc is delivered from the upper display
board to the elevation DOWN relay. This low voltage dc is what energizes the coil of the relay.
BELTSW (green) - This LED will illuminate when the low voltage dc is delivered from the upper
display board to the belt (motor start) relay. This low voltage dc is what energizes the coil of the relay.
SPD (yellow) - The SPD LED flashes on and off (relative to speed) when the speed sensor is
operating properly.
PWM (yellow) - This LED will light when the upper board is sending a speed signal to the PWM.
Both the PWM LED and BELTSW LED must be lit for belt movement.
Finally this this Relay Board, the Each Led will be Lit, for any Relai control for DN down, or UP elevation motor. Use the contact cleaner, you can find it in R .Shack.
see the diagram attached.
God bless you

The error E68 means the ccu has sensed a stuck button on the console. MANY times this is a false error and means that either the ccu or interface must be replaced, but SOMETIMES, there really is a stuck button. TRy to run a diagnostic using the instructions I have provided below, let me know if you need any help with it.
1. Press and hold Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds to reset the control. The buzzer will sound
1 time and "rES" will be shown briefly in the display.
2. Immediately after, rotate cycle selector knob 5 turns counter-clockwise to the second position from the bottom.
Press and hold the Options and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 2 seconds. The control will enter test mode,
the buzzer will sound 3 times and all LED's will rapidly flash.
After entering the test mode, the cycle selector knob can now be rotated to select the following tests:
Rotate the cycle selector knob clockwise from the starting position:
0 turns: All LED's will flash.
1 turn: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. "H" and the control thermistor reading will toggle
back and forth in the display.
2 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit and "AF" (Air Fluff) is displayed.
3 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Drying and Cool Down LED's are lit and numbers appear in the
display showing moisture sensor readings. Opening the door (press in on door switch plunger) and placing
a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the numbers decrease. In controls that
do not have a digit display, the More Dry LED should be ON. Opening the door (press in on door switch
plunger) and placing a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the Damp LED
come on.
4 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off.
Key test:
a. When the Temperature key is pressed, all the temperature LED's should light.
b. When the Dryness key is pressed, all the dryness level LED's should light.
c. When the Options or Select key is pressed, all the Option LED's should light.
d. When the Start/Pause key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
e. When the Cancel key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
5 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
6 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
7-11 turns: All LED's will flash
To EXIT test mode, press and hold the Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds or disconnect power
from dryer. Dryer will be reset for regular operation.
If you cant even enter this mode at all, your interface will have to be replaced. There is no way to determine whether its the intrface OR ccu, but in my experience, it's usualy the interface that ends up needing replacement. Here is the part to order.

This E68 is a stuck keypad.


The error E68 means the CCU has sensed a stuck button on the console. MANY times this is a false error and means that either the CCU or interface must be replaced, but SOMETIMES, there really is a stuck button. Try to run a diagnostic using the instructions I have provided below, let me know if you need any help with it.
1. Press and hold Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds to reset the control. The buzzer will sound
1 time and " res" will be shown briefly in the display.
2. Immediately after, rotate cycle selector knob 5 turns counter-clockwise to the second position from the bottom.
Press and hold the Options and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 2 seconds. The control will enter test mode,
the buzzer will sound 3 times and all LED's will rapidly flash.
After entering the test mode, the cycle selector knob can now be rotated to select the following tests:
Rotate the cycle selector knob clockwise from the starting position:
0 turns: All LED's will flash.
1 turn: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. "H" and the control thermistor reading will toggle
back and forth in the display.
2 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit and "AF" (Air Fluff) is displayed.
3 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Drying and Cool Down LED's are lit and numbers appear in the
display showing moisture sensor readings. Opening the door (press in on door switch plunger) and placing
a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the numbers decrease. In controls that
do not have a digit display, the More Dry LED should be ON. Opening the door (press in on door switch
plunger) and placing a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the Damp LED
come on.
4 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off.
Key test:
a. When the Temperature key is pressed, all the temperature LED's should light.
b. When the Dryness key is pressed, all the dryness level LED's should light.
c. When the Options or Select key is pressed, all the Option LED's should light.
d. When the Start/Pause key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
e. When the Cancel key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
5 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
6 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
7-11 turns: All LED's will flash
To EXIT test mode, press and hold the Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds or disconnect power
from dryer. Dryer will be reset for regular operation.
If you cant even enter this mode at all, your interface will have to be replaced. There is no way to determine whether its the interface OR CCU, but in my experience, it's usually the interface that ends up needing replacement. Here is a link to the interface board.

+11v LED - Indicates there is +11 volts supplied to the display board. If this LED is not lit verify the following: 1. The display cable is damaged or pinched, disconnect the display cable and verify if the LED lights up. If LED lights up replace the cable. After the above has been verified and the +11 LED is still “OFF”, the MCB should be replaced.

actually if u repair an aoc monitor alone without getting connected to cpu once u switch on the monitor all led's will lit on ( green light ) it will remain on situation until u connect the vga connector to cpu that's the time led's will lit off and only the power led will remain in green condition.some aoc 5en once u power on power led is in green condition and if not connected to cpu it will be in orange condition.hope u get some idea but i am not sure if it will work with ur monitor. but as long as LEDs lit on i think no problem with ur monitor.

How do you solve the problem my face want light up