Date of manufacture should be on the back of the unit on a tag with serial number, model etc.
SOURCE: I have a GE Profile
The
refrigerator has a duel water valve, one for the ice-maker and one
for the water dispenser (if equipped). The valve that
the ice-maker relies on may be bad, or it could be the ice-maker itself.
Another thing that could cause it would be
the temperatures in the freezer. The ice-maker will not
call for water until it reaches under 15 degrees. In addition, check
the water tube behind the ice-maker to make sure it is not frozen, blocking
more water from entering. The water does not go to the ice-maker or
thru the filter unless the ice-maker turns on the water valve.
SOURCE: GE Profile Refrigerator PFS22SISBSS Bottom Freezer Temperature Indicators
I finally called GE about the non-working LED's and the temperature fluctuation. It's a known problem as many consumers have posted online. I called 800-386-1215 several times. What I found is I'd get different menu options nearly each time I called. The way I got to a 'helpful' human follows: Call above number; you will/may here a voice that states only 'for recalled appliances press 9' (may also have options for repair or parts) PRESS 0; next menu PRESS 5; you'll hear 'for less than 1 yr old press 1' and 'for more than 1 yr press 2'. In my case I pressed 2, then got a menu with 'for refrigerators PRESS 2'. Spoke to a woman who never denied that GE has a motherboard problem. She offered to provide a free motherboard but no labor. I asked (to be sure) if I would have to pay labor, she said yes or I could have $400 off a new crappy GE fridge. She said I would have to have a repairman come to diagnose the problem, then order the part and then come back to repair. I then said, 'You're telling me that I have to pay for TWO service calls to repair a known GE defect???? How much should I expect to pay for these TWO service calls???' She then asked me to hold, then came back on the line and told me that GE would pay the labor for the repair.
I also asked if GE was willing to do anything about the 25 cent door latch that cracked after 11 months (and is attached to the door gasket a $228.00 part) or the rusting wire freezer baskets and was told no. Hey, worth a try! The fact that they said no ensures that I will continue on my crusade to warn anyone who'll listen not to buy GE! Keep calling, after I got the right menu the wait was short the whole call was less than 15 minutes.
SOURCE: I have a GE Profile,model PFS22SISBSS,3 years
Possible main pcb failure failure which would cause everything to cut out and restart . Is the compressor or back of the appliance hot ?? Do all the control lights go out when the compressor cuts out ??
SOURCE: GE Profile Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
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