Can I use an ohm meter to test the ignition module on 545081826 what results should I gett

Instructions1 Use a wiring diagram for the year model of your vehicle. Locate the terminals running into and out of the ignition module. Placement of the module varies from model to model so check the appropiate service manual of your vehicle for the exact location.
2 Turn the ignition on and use your DVOM to check for voltage to the ignition module and the positive terminal of the ignition coil. Place the negative lead of your DVOM to a solid ground and use the positive lead to probe the wires running to the ignition module and to the ignition coil.
3 If your DVOM shows that voltage is present at both locations, remove the DVOM leads and set the meter aside. Connect the ground lead from the 12-volt test light to the negative terminal on the ignition coil. Have your partner crank the engine over several times. Your test light should flicker on and off. If so, your module is working properly and no further testing is necessary.
4 If your test light does not flicker on and off, visually inspect the wires running into and out of the ignition module. Look for burn marks, melted wire insulation and breaks in the wires. Use your wire splicing tool to remove the bad area in the wire and use your wire connectors and splicing tool to repair the faulty wires.
5 Use your DVOM to check for an open circuit condition in the primary coil winding. Touch the negative probe to the negative terminal on the ignition coil, touch the positive lead to the positive terminal. Set the meter to read ohms. If the reading shows infinite ohms, your ignition module is faulty and should be replaced. Follow the service manual instructions for replacing your ignition coil.
6 Look to see if the DVOM test shows low to no ohms; if so, then you have a faulty ignition module that will have to be replaced. Follow the service manual instructions for your vehicle to replace the module.
Thanks

I know you stated you checked all fuses and relay and they're ok but The 2003 Lincoln Navigator had two differently (wired) air ride systems. A early production and a late one, and I think I may have a good Idea of what your problem may be and will walk you through how to properly test the system. The early production navigators used a solid state compressor relay and the later production units used a standard style relay. The early ones with the solid state type has been known to have some problems and working for a Ford, Lincoln Dealer for 21 years I have replaced a good number of these solid state relay for a air ride compressor inoperative concern. There seems to be some confusion on the location of the solid state relay. I would advise you to look behind your front bumper on the passengers side of your vehicle (and below your headlight) and see if you have a 4 wire relay that's aluminum and finnd ribs on the front of it and I believe a black base where the wiring connector plugs in. (this will be mounted to the radiator support) if so, you Have got the early production style. I will walk you through how to test this relay and also help you to isolate the cause of your problem. I highly recommend using a volt ohm meter for these tests. I do not recommend using A TEST LIGHT due to the fact that you will be testing a circuit that is wired to the air ride control module, and there is a possibility of you damaging the module with a test light !!! I have been there, done that, NOT GOOD.
Ok with that said: your wire colors should be as follows:
one that's( gray and red)
another that's (light green and red)
another that's (dark blue and yellow)
and one that (light blue and pink).
Disconnect the connector at the relay and you'll be testing the wires in the connector (THAT HOOK UP TO THE RELAY). The air ride compressor and the air ride solid state relay share the same ground which is the light green and red wire.
Turn your volt ohm meter to dc volts scale and attach the black wire (NEGATIVE) lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire.
Hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the light blue and pink wire.
Here your volt meter should read battery voltage (of your car's battery) if not check the (F2-111) 50 amp designated fuse in the fuse box under the the dash on the passengers side (KICK PANEL).
If this fuse is ok, make sure you were making good contact with your test leads into the compressor relay connector.
If you're comfortable with the fact that you have a good connection at the relay connector and your fuse tested ok, then you have a ground problem at ground point G101 which is located right near the mounting location of the air ride relay.
If you had battery voltage when you tested between the (light green and red) and the light blue and pink wires, you have confirmed the power source and ground to the relay.
I should clarify myself at this point. The wires at the relay are as such: The ground is the light green and red wire, the light blue and pink is the fused power source to the relay, the dark blue and yellow wire is the relay trigger source from the air ride module to the air ride relay, and the grey and red is the relay output (battery +) to turn on the compressor. OK.
So now we're down to checking the trigger source to the relay and the relay output. At this point I want you to re-hook up the volt ohm meter with the meter still set at volts d/c scale and reconnect the (red lead) of the volt ohm meter to the (light blue and pink wire) and connect the (black) lead of the volt ohm meter to the dark blue and yellow wire (again at the relay connector).
Now this next step is best done with the help of an assistant!!
While watching your volt ohm meter, have your assistant turn on the key and open and close the drivers door two -to- three times. After cycling the door, you for a short time should see at least 5 volts minimum, if not battery voltage at your meter.
(this is a little bit unclear to me due to the fact the air ride module shows that the dark blue and yellow wire, as a ground from the air ride module to the relay. but does not clarify exactly what value that ground signal should be). I am referencing Fords own wiring diagram.
A solid state relay usally is allowed a trigger source of a lower voltage then a standard relay. If you find you have no voltage reading at your volt ohm on this test, you'll first want to check fuses F2-20 which is a 30 amp fuse and F2-27 which is a 5 amp fuse in the same fuse box as the F2-111 fuse you checked earlier.
The last test you need to make at the relay is checking the relay output to the compressor. This will be done by again using the volt ohm meter. This time you'll want to hook the black lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire at the reay connector and hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector. Again for this test, you'll need to have a assistant turn on the key, then recycle the drivers door again.
If the relay is working properly you should have battery voltage, aproximately 12 volts showing on your meter. If not and all other test procedures results were correct, you have a bad relay.
If you have 12 volts on this test we have confirmed the relay is good and the trigger signal from the air ride module is operating as designed.
If the pump runs like you said (when it is straight wired ) the remaining possiblity is a broke wire between the air ride relay to the air ride pump (this being the grey and red wire) which you can test by switching the volt ohm meter to the ohms scale and touching one lead of the meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector and the other to the grey and red wire at the compressor (with the compressor and the relay both disconnected). Your reading here should be 0.5 ohms or less. If you have under 1.0 ohms you're ok but specs are 0. 5 or less.
If you have an auto ranging type ohm meter, be sure your reading in ohms and not kilo ohms or mega ohms.
If you find while performing the test from the air ride module to the air ride relay (dark blue and yellow wire) referenced as the trigger signal, incorrect and all fuses all checked o.k. then it is possible the air ride control module is defective. But, before condemning the module, there are a multitude of input signal;s to the module that would have to be checked.
WARNING: Make sure your tests are accurate. Good to check and re-check each test. Be confident of your results.
Inaccurate tests and inaccurate test results= unnecessary parts replacement. Results are large dollars spent when unneeded.
Hope this helps you out.thanks for using fixya

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.
The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.

There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)

The first thing is do you know when the last time was that the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires were changed?

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require a firing order diagram any further assistance with testing or diagnostic procedures.

If the fuel pump does run and there is fuel pressure but there is no fuel injector pulse to the fuel injectors at the top of the throttle body, then the problem is either with the distributor, the ECM, or the wiring between the ignition module inside of the distributor and the ECM.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Ignition module may be bad. It should be located under the coils, the coils usually plug into the ignition module. Also might be a bad crank or cam sensor

to test the ignition coil hook a meter to the respective ends. there should be infiinite resistance in ohms on the coil