Sp 3g crossover wiring - Peavey Music

There is possibly a bad solder connection or component on the crossover. I cant remember if that crossover uses a 12volt light bulb or not, for DC current protection, if it does make sure the bulb is good.

Horn is red +, black -, mid is white +, blue-, lows are yellow+, blue-. If you look at the crossover board, you'll see the treminals are labeled what goes to where.

In Peavey cabinets, the lower woofer is always Yellow + and Blue - and the horn is always Red + and Black -. On the middle 15" the remaining two wires would be White + and Blue -

Could be the crossover has died or the main speaker winding has failed. Open her up and connect on side of the main speaker direct to a 9v battery and then wipe the other wire over the other terminal. If you get a crackling from the speaker then it's likely the crossover, if there is no response at all from the speaker then it is dead and possibly the crossover too.

The problem is bad high freq. IC TDA7293.
There is no pasive crossover.

Crossover 1/4 female connector issue and/or tweeter diaphragm got fried...

These cabinets are self contained and you do not use a crossover with them. The speakers do NOT come out to separate connectors. You just drive these with an amplifier. DO PAY ATTENTION to the power rating... you are safe using an amplifier with a MAXIMUM of 150 Watts RMS per speaker cabinet. More than that and running them loud and you will be replacing the speakers. These will cover a 40 foot square room at comfortable level.

You would send high as well as low to the sub and unless the sub had a built in crossover it COULD get muddy sounding. The specs SEEM to indicate the 118 DOES have a low frequency crossover so it SHOULD be OK... How would it sound? An 18 inch sub normally adds to the sound of a system... You MAY need to PAN over to send more power to the one side with the extra load on one side. Often people use two sub's... one for each side so it is balanced.

The lamp is an "1156" lamp... replace with that part number. Here :

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=524517&k=lamp%201156

Or you can find it at auto parts store.

LIKELY the polyfuse device is ALSO gone... Probably similar to this one (1.1 amp, trip 2.2 amp):

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=F2010-ND

or this one (1.85 amp, trip 3.7 amp):

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=F2013-ND

Ive been through this. Although it certainly appears to be a ceramic capacitor, its actually called a polyswitch. .65 amp. Parts express carries them. Part no. 071-256.