Run the dishwasher through a test mode
Test Mode
Make sure the appliance is empty of water before running Diagnostics as it does not pump out before starting to fill and therefore you could overfill the appliance.
Open the door and set the program to the first program. (Normally rinse).
Turn the power off.
Press and hold the start button and while holding turn the power on.
After a little while the start button will flash, release the button.
Press the start button once and close the dishwasher door.
The machine will now run through a diagnostic routine.
Should take about 20 mins.
The machine will stop during diagnostics if an error is found and will display the error code. If no error is found it will complete the diagnostics and end the programme.
To exit diagnostics at any time just press and hold the start button till the programme is cancelled
Error codes
F1. Single flash. NTC Break. NTC open circuit/short circuit or ambient temperature less than 3 Celcius
F2. 2 Flashes. Water leakage. Floater switch LS6 in drip tray has switched.
F3. 3 Flashes. Heating system defect. Heater or relay on control board defect. Chack also cabling.
F4. 4 Flashes. Draining failure. Drain pump, control board OWI or water indicator defect.
F5. 5 Flashes. Sprayarm Blocked (not present on VBL version. On 1 digit display will show as F and flashing start led).
F6. 6 Flashes. Water valve (WV1) is switched on but flow meter (FM) senses no impulses (less than 10 impulses in 10 secs) and the water indicator (WI) is at a low level
Water Valve Closed. Water inlet hose blocked.
Water inlet valve (WV1) defective. Flow meter (FM) defective (leads to FM failure)
F7. 7 Flashes. Flow meter failure. Flow meter defect. Water inlet valve defect or water inlet hose blocked.
F8. 8 Flashes. Water level failure. Sieve strongly dirty or big amount of foam inside to less water.
F9. 9 Flashes. Continuously Water Inlet. Water inlet valve mechanically not closed or control board defect.
FA. 11 Flashes. OWI failure. Dirty OWI lens. OWI defect or control board defect. Check cabling.
FB. 12 Flashes. Motorised Diverter Valve
FC. 13 Flashes. Water Hardness Sensor Failure
A fault with no fault code indication = faulty module
Read more: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=200838#ixzz2zKhYFHxt
SOURCE: Flashig lights, ticking sound, unfinished cycle
It sounds like it may be a heater problem or motor start problem. If you will post the complete model number from the decal, I may be able to look up something on it.
You should be able to get warranty service even without the proof of purchase as long as the manufacturing date proves it is within the warranty period. The date code is in the serial number.
If you will post it also I can look it up and tell you when it was built.
Thanks/Mike
SOURCE: 3 lights are flashing at end of dishwashing cycle cycle
I shut off the dishwasher, held a few of the buttons together at the same time, let it sit for 5 minutes, then restarted it and it worked!
SOURCE: ''clean'' light flashing (whirlpool Dishwasher GU2300XTLS1 model)
I had the same problem recently and a repair person came to my home to fix the dishwasher. He said he had to reset the control panel. He did this simply by making sure the soap dispenser door inside the washer was closed, then making sure the main dishwasher door was closed and locked. Then he quickly pushed the Heated Dry button and the Hight Temp wash button alternately. He said each button needed to be pushed twice within five seconds. After he did this all the lights on the control panel came on, then turned themselves off before the washer went in to a test cycle. This simple reset fixed the whole problem. Works great so far.
SOURCE: lights flashing at end of cycle, dishes not clean
I switched it off at the wall and left it for a minute and set the dial to Stop and then set it again from the beginning and so far it has been fine. Thanks, DCD
SOURCE: My Whirlpool ADP 5406 runs
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.
Usually this symptom also shows an F7 error code. You will need to remove the lower wash arm (NOTE INSTALLED POSITION) Also you will need to remove the metal grate under the wash arm tower. Inside there is a glass tube that senses debris. Clean out the sump area and wipe the glass tube clean. Reinstall everything exactly as your removed it. The installation of the lower wash arm can be fussy.
While your cleaning things also check the entire drain hose from the sump to the sink connection for kinks or obstructions. If you have an Air-Gap remove the cover, (Note again the installed position of the air gap upper plastic cap that has an internal U shaped water passage) unscrew the plastic nut in the top and check for debris inside the air gap water passage. At the sink connection be it a plumbing connection or a garbage disposal connection make sure the drain port is clear. This should stop the repeated start button routine.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
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