SOURCE: Leaking on floor only after shuts down.
Griz, check the vent and see if you have bunch of gunk thats collecting water in it. Sometimes the spray arms are cracked and direct water into the vent. If this happens you will have leaking down the center of the door. Catriver...post back
SOURCE: 18 in dishwasher drains water during cycles
find out how the dishwasher is set up to drain. Pour water into dishwasher 4 or 5 gallons, see if water disappears. if so, your drain is ran wrong
SOURCE: My dishwasher will not drain completely
I had a similar thing with ours. Found out the drainage pipe that goes from the dishwasher to the pipes under the sink was blocked. Take hold of the pipe that geos under your sink from the dishwasher (usually a flexible pipe) and give it a shake and a bang a few times. Also check the filter inside your dishwasher, take it all out and give it a good wash. Look inside the cavity where the filter came out of and make sure no food / fat or other gunk is inside that. I also found those dishwasher cleaner things work very well at unblocking. Buy from a supermarket and you put it in the dishwasher with no dishes. Ours worked like brand new after I did all of this. Good Luck.
SOURCE: won't drain during the final cycle, water comes out on the floor
CHECK THE FOLLOWING--
1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to
see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything
blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher
might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there
is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the
air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the
hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it
might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt,
because it is probably too stretched out.
3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller,
takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the
water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the
dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to
drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the
water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful,
you might have to replace the pump assembly.
5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
6. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
SOURCE: Dishwasher (Kenmore 665 Ultra Wash) won't drain. Suggestions?
HI.This is a drain issue. check the following areas for faults.
1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
Ok, if the hoses are ok and not clogged, this will confirm a major issue that concerns the drain assembly or pump impeller.
replace the pump(drain) if found to be faulty.
If suds are detected continuously by the pressure switch during the drain or spin phases, the washer will fill 4 liters of water and during 5 minutes the unit will rest without tumbling, the water will be drained and it will try to spin or drain again.
Possible Causes/Procedure
• If too much detergent was used:
- Run the unit through a RINSE/SPIN cycle.
- Run a NORMAL cycle without adding any detergent,
• This should clear the unit of the excess detergent.
1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check wire harness connections to the drain pump, pressure switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check/clean drain pump filter of foreign objects.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Check drain pump.
7. Check the pressure switch.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.
WARNING: THIS WRITE-UP IS COMPLETELY MY OPINION BASED ON MY EXPERIMENTATION WITH THE EQUIPMENT. TRY ANY OF IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU WILL BE SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL THE CONSEQUENCES (GOOD OR BAD EITHER WAY) THAT YOU MAY REAP FROM THE MACHINE YOU WORK ON.
I made the biggest mistake of taking the whirpool WFW9600TA01 from US to India - I had been totally frustrated with the SUDS/F35 issue, absolutely as explained in the question above.
I started as a novice but feel very confident to write this solution now. There are several areas that could cause this problem. Fundamentally, as the water fills the tub, the pressure form the pressure switch is sensed. If the value is not in line with what is programmed, you get this error. This deviation in pressure value can be caused by any of the below reasons.
First and foremost thing I would do is remove (disassemble - note very carefully the assembly and the position before disassembling. You will need to reassemble in the exact same way in the exact same position) and clean all the pipes, hoses and connectors
Details:
The problem could occur because of:
1. True suds formation due to wrong soap usage (pretty often the problem) - Solution for this? - use a lot of vinegar and a few "risnse and spin" cycles with out any clothes in the washer
2. The pressure switch could have gone bad. Solution - replace the pressure switch (I would do this the last though)
3. There could be dirt collected at the water inlet. Solution remove the water inlet and clean the cup shaped strainer
4. Your outlet/drain pump (the one that pumps the water out of the washer into the drain) may have worn out, there by not draining out all the water. This will leave residual water impacting the next run. Solution replace the pump assembly
5. There may be particle collection such as coins pens, small pins etc in the darn pump inlet strainer causing the drain pump to not work properly and in turn causing SUDS/F35. Solution - remove the front of the drain pump inlet and remove the particles and restart.
6. There is a conical shaped connector connecting the outlet of the tub to the inlet of the drain pump. At one side of this connector (the broader side connecting to the tub) there is a plastic ball in it. If the ball is punctured, water may have collected in it causing it to weigh more than what it is supposed to. When the drain pump runs, the weight of this ball may counter act to not allow proper draining of the water. This residual accumulation of the water will cause SUDS/F35 in the next cycle. Solution - replace that flexible connector. Atleast drain the water from the front at the drain pump inlet, if you want the washer to work for that cycle.
7. There is a small white plastic tube at the back which runs a black tube to the pressure swtich. The assembly is pretty interesting. It is a simple insertion with the air tightness being achieved by a simple rubber gasket covering the insertable part (do not know why the design is such). After a few washes due to the vibration generated by the tub during wash, this gasket can move causing air leaks. Such air leaks do not cause any issue to the current run, but will result in a SUDS/F35 in the next run. It will remain so for al the next runs unless it is re-inserted properly. Solution for this? every time open the rear and make sure the plastic white part is pushed in well.
8. There are other reasons like the main control circulatory / mother board could have gone bad etc. You can figure if this is the problem by running the diagnostic tests for the most part - there is a good chance that only a certified technician can tell you. Solution - replace the mother board (quite stupid huh!!)
9. Finally, the steamer assembly could have gone bad - Although the manual says this, I cannot quite figure out how this would affect the pressure buildup in the tub - I do not know what to do. More than likely if you invite a technician, the person might ask you to replace this assembly.
Try everything - the net effect should be that you have plugged all air leaks. I know some expect to see water leaks at place where air leak exists. That may not be true at all. Good luck with everything.
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