Kenmore electric dryer won't start. #63841

Normally when a dryer starts to exhibit longer dry times, then suddenly stop working, it is an indication that the Thermal Cut-Out has blown. The TCO acts as a fuse for the heating element circuits. When an overheat condition occurs, normally the hi-limit thermostat will open to shut off the heating element. This is how the dryer regualtes its heat. However, if the hi-limit thermostat malfunctions, the TCO will blow, It is not resettable, and has to be replaced. This also means that the hi-limit thermostat could be suspect and it should also be replaced at the same time. Normally, when you go to replace one or the other they are sold as a set. This still does not rule out the possibility of a bad heating element, either.

However, you said the dryer additionally does not start. With a blown TCO or heating element the dryer will still run, but will not heat. I'll get back to this in a minute...

Now...if your dryer has been having problems drying, the first thing you need to check is the ventilation ducting to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Not to mention it can cause fires due to lint backing up inside the dryer. This could be the "electrical" smell you've experienced. If trapped lint is ending up on the heating element it will smolder and burn. I recommend the ducting be cleaned thoroughly about once per season. That's 4 times per year. If you've never cleaned the ducting, or your dryer is pushed all the way up against the wall causing the ducting to become kinked, you will have air flow problems. One way in determing air flow is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and start the unit (of course, you need a working dryer in order to do this). The air should be forceful and slowly warm up to about 140 degrees. If the air flow is weak, you may have a clog inside the air baffle of the dryer (this is where the lint screen slides into). If the air flow is good, reattach the dryer hose and check at the output of the dryer vent as it exits your home. If the air flow is weak or non-existent then you know you have a clog in the vent line somewhere. Periodic cleaning will go a long way towards preventing future clogs. Dryer vent rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line, the BETTER. Everywhere you have a bend or kink is an area where you will create potential collection points for lint.

Now, in determing which component is bad in your dryer. If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side.

The heating circuit is set up and troubleshot as follows:

Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, 7 ohms across the other.

*Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

*If the Thermal Fuse blows, this will shut down the entire dryer. This is your likely suspect.

Here's a few things that will cause a dryer not to start at all:

1. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
2. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
3. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
4. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
6. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.

I just threw in those other items to give you some other things to consider. Troubleshooting is always an exact science as symptoms don't always indicate what you think the problem could be. The reason I keyed in on the heating circuitry was the intial symptoms you started with. Longer dry times are usually associated with poor air flow which usually causes something to eventually blow. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back with any comments that I may assist you further. I hope this isn't confusing to you. Please ask for clarification if it is.

Need a diagram to put a kenmore belt model 86870100

I try to start my dryer but when I push start it makes this loud buzzing noise, and wont start.

Danny, I have a nephew with the same name. Danny Clark. I'm not sure where Kinnots, (1st answer), gets his info about dryers, but in my 35 years, I've yet to come across one that stops operating completely because of a belt. The only function of any belt in any dryer is to turn the drum.
So, yours won't start at all, you don't mention what brand, or make it is, so this will be sort of generic advise. Some older Kenmore dryers had a thermal fuse in the rear of the unit, located near the blower ducts that would shut the unit down completely if blown. It's a small, white thing about the size of a quarter, with two wires attached. If you can get continuity across the two posts it's OK, if not, it's blown. On some units it shuts down the whole machine, on others it shuts down the element. If that doesn't get it started, then there's a problem with the starter switch or the motor, or as a last resort, check the line voltage coming in to the unit. IT should be 240 volts. That could be blown too, (breaker). Good luck
Corky (fixit)

Ok here goes this is what I found wrong with my Kenmore Dryer 110 64112200 would not heat correctly and we quit using it. All these different forums and sites say You need a motor. Alternating Current Squirrel cage motors are very robust and unless locked up or a open wire coil they work, now that being said the Bottom wire on My motor plug is Red and is connecting L1 and L2 to turn on the Heating Element when the Centrifugal Motor switch is Released because the motor is up to Speed (Turning the Drum) I removed the Motor and opened the black Plug on the Motor the Switchable Contacts inside for the Heater element on the Bottom plug pin were fused together. This Condition caused my Heater Element to come on As Soon As I Plugged the Dryer in, caused the timer to tick and it also caused the motor to hum upon pushing the start Button and me having to help the motor start (Spin the Drum By Hand). The Motor would let the Drum stop as soon as the you put any clothes in the drum. The Reason is because since the Red Heater Element Wire Contacts were Welded together in the Motor Plug, when the Centrifugal switch on the motor shaft would release the switch it could not close the contacts for the Motor START Capacitor (the reason that the motors Hums, it can't start). Without the Start Capacitor the AC Motor can not start so it just hums unless you help it. Now also since I Broke the Fused contacts apart again the Motor can start and I Can not stop the Drum Motor Works Fine and the Heater element works Fine. Just some Information the Motor Centrifugal (Fly Weights) Switch is a Double Gang Switch so the motor can start, come up to speed and at the same time Close the Heater Element circuit. Hope this helps Somebody. Myself I can't see spending $82.85 for a motor I don't really need.