My rear brake caliper and lever got broken. where can i get the parts?

There are two.

The front switch is inside the right handlebar switch housing (START, RUN/OFF kill switch, RIGHT TURN SIGNAL) and operates off the front brake lever.
The usual problem with this is it either sticks, or the "tit" that works off the brake lever gets broken off, usually because the front master cylinder wasn\'t installed by the correct procedure.
Usual results is the brake light will not turn off with the ignition on.

The other switch is located along the rear brake hydraulic line.
Start at the master cylinder and follow the line back to the rear caliper, and you\'ll find it eventually.

It appears Harley has a problem with the rear brake light switch on this year, as it tends to spring a leak, brake pedal goes all the way down without stopping, sometimes smoking from the brake fluid being sprayed on hot engine parts, etc.

Remove the center console covering the parking brake lever. Locate the parking brake lever between the drivers seat and the front passenger seat. Put the parking brake lever in the lowest position.

2

Turn the cable adjuster locknut to make the nut loose. Find the nut at the base of the parking brake lever.

3

Raise your GT rear wheels using a jack and support the rear wheels using jack stands. Remove both rear wheels using a tire iron to loosen and take off the lug nuts. Take off the tire from the rods by hand.

4

Get underneath the car and remove the rubber hole plugs from the brake rotors. Locate the rotors on the underneath inside of the wheel wells.

5

Take off the brake calipers with a screwdriver, but do not disconnect the brake fluid lines.

6

Use a pry bar to push up on the parking brake self adjuster wheel. Locate this next to the brake caliper and it looks like a star wheel. Rotate this wheel until the rotors will not turn.

7

Turn the adjuster wheel five notches in the opposite direction. Reinstall the calipers and wheels. Lower your GT using the jack and remove the jack stands from the rear wheels.

Dont disassemble the caliper, just yet.

Bleed new fluid through it.
Check the disk isnt bent

You push the rear caliper piston in by hand

On the front you can use an old pad &
4" c-clamp,not so on the rear

It will go back in, if you open the bleeder valve

You have to flush all 4 corners, on all your vehicles,
every 2 years anyway. Didn't know that -right !

Now to your part of the puzzle

Buy a small tool at parts store that looks like a
1 1/4" cube with pins on it

That is to turn in the caliper parking brake feature
inside & behind the pistion you where trying to push on

Push in by hand while turning clockwise with the cube
using a 3/8" extension & ratchet

Once the pads are on ratchet up the parking brake
lever by hand

Now your changing your brake fluids every 2 years
you start doing the power steering & trans EVERY
30,000 Miles,ALWAYS on ALL Vehicles

Sand off ALL rust on caliper & pad abutements &
sliding surfaces & use anti-seize ,or you may as well
not do the job in the first place. The pro don't do that,
but you can do a nice job, so the brakes actually work

The Caliper Adjustment Lever is what adjusts the caliper - ensuring the brakes pads are in proper placement to the rotor for effective braking. The lever must be cycled in order to keep the calipers adjusted properly. The only way the lever is cycled, is by the usage of the e-brake.




Remove the cable from the Caliper Lever. Be careful when handling and removing the spring.



The Caliper Adjustment Lever is what adjusts the caliper - ensuring the brakes pads are in proper placement to the rotor for effective braking. The lever must be cycled in order to keep the calipers adjusted properly. The only way the lever is cycled, is by the usage of the e-brake.

Initial testing: After you have removed the ebrake cable - kneel in front of the rotor and give it a gentle shake (as if you were removing it). Do you notice any PLAY between the pads & rotor?? Make note of this.

For the TSM kit caliper adjustment instructions - visit here: Troubleshooting.htm#2 and click on "Adjust Caliper Parking Brake".

Good luck.

Okay, this is the step that says how to REMOVE the cable:

1. Remove retaining clip from the parking brake rear cable at the disc brake caliper. Release the tension from the parking brake cable and disengage the cable end from the parking brake lever on the brake caliper.
   

And this is the step that says how to INSTALL the cable:

1. Connect the end of the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever on the disc brake caliper.
   

Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

The brake light is activated by a little switch near the brake lever for the front brake, and the rear brake pedal activates a electric/hydraulic switch mounted somewhere on your frame between the rear master cylinder and the brake caliper. It has to be in line with the rear brake line so it will be easy to find by tracing the line. It will be about an inch in diameter, have one or two wires plugged into on end, and uses a special socket to remove/install, although you can get away with channel-locks if you take care. If you decide to tackle the job yourself, buy the part before hand, and don't touch the brake levers at all until the new one is installed, you should not have to bleed the brakes that way.

I have rode bikes for years now, Brakes are a must and when it comes to myself always better safe than sorry, replace parts that malfuction or aren't working properly. Its a lonely place out on the trail miles from any help with broken parts.

A few suggestions:

Lube/replace your cables and housings. If your housings are getting rusty on the inside, it will prevent the tension in the spring of the calipers from returning the brake levers to "home" position. Also, dura-ace levers have an internal return spring that is prone to breaking or coming off its peg (this can't be repaired without disassembling the lever).

Make sure your calipers are clean and move freely, and have sufficient spring tension to return to "home" position.

Be careful not to get lubricant on the braking surfaces, obviously.

As an experiment, remove the wheel and pinch the calipers together with your hands. Then, check to see how loose the brake lever is.