Just hooked up (water lines only, no control wiring yet) a 3 station Jar top Manifold. One of the valves is open while the other two are shut. Have taken apart and see not apparent reason for it to be open. Any suggestions?

To check controller unplug from wall, if water continues it is a valve problem. You can check further by swapping any two stations wires and if problem follows to another valve it is controller. Sounds like a bad valve. When I repaired mine I bought a new valve took the top off old one and put the new top with solenoid and diaphragm.. the valve is a balanced valve and water will bleed thru hole in diaphragm and close valve by filling top of diaphragm plus spring closes valve. Did you get the diaphragm in the correct position?

Please check the wiring as you might have not hooked up the connectors for the water valve.

When I work on a valve in the field we usually just leave the valve body in place and change out the parts from a new unit. As long as the valve body is intact as you have described this should remedy whatever problem you are having. Make certain all wire connections are good and that you are getting 24 - 28 volts to the valve selenoid when the timer has selected that station.

Sounds like you have a wire in the MV pin without a Master Valve.

you could have a short in the lines that lead to the manifold and its not opening the valves which is causing feedback to the timer, usually the neutral wire since it hooks to all the solenoids at the manifold set up, since the timer wants to send out the signal,, it finally shuts down , but in the mean time is using up all the battery backup , go to the manifolds, and check the wires there, it may even help if you uncap them, trim off the bad sections, and rehook them up.

P0442 - Evaporative Emissions System Leak Detected (Small Leak)

P0455 - Evaporative Emissions System Leak Detected (Gross Leak)

This diagnosis detects leaks in the EVAP purge line using engine intake manifold vacuum. If pressure does not increase, the ECM will check for leaks in the line between the fuel tank and EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve under the following vacuum test condition. The vacuum cut valve bypass valve is opened to clear the line between the fuel tank and the EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve. The EVAP canister vent control valve will then be closed to shut the EVAP purge line off. The EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve is opened to depressurize the EVAP purge line using intake manifold vacuum. After this depressurization is implemented, the EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve will be closed.

Causes:
- Missing Fuel cap
- Incorrect fuel filler cap used
- Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close
- Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- Incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- Leak is in line between intake manifold

Solutions:
- Re-tighten or replace fuel tank filler cap
- Replace damaged or leaking EVAP canister
- Replace damaged or leaking lines.

it is important to turn off

the gas supply to the water heater at the manual gas shut-off

valve. This valve is typically located beside the water heater.

Note the position of the shut-off valve in the open/on position

then proceed to turn it off.

2. On the lower front of the water heater locate the combination

gas control valve/thermostat. Depress and hold

the lock tab located under the gas control knob on the right.

Rotate the gas control knob on the combination gas control

valve/thermostat clockwise until "OFF" aligns with the mark on

the front of the gas valve. Once the gas supply has been shutoff,

remove outer door. 3. Using a 1/4" nut driver or socket loosen the two screws securing

the manifold door assembly until they are free. Do not

totally remove the screws and plastic retainer washers from

the manifold door. The screws and retainer washers will be

needed to reattach the manifold door. 4. In this step, the thermocouple, manifold tube, pilot tube and

igniter wire will be disconnected from the combination gas

control valve/thermostat. Using a 7/16" wrench

disconnect the thermocouple (left-hand thread) and pilot tube

(right-hand thread). Using a 3/4" wrench disconnect the manifold

tube (right-hand thread). Carefully pull the igniter wire from

the igniter button.

5. Grasp the manifold tube and push down slightly to free the

manifold tube, pilot tube, and thermocouple from the combination

gas control valve/thermostat. when installation is complete and gas is back on, You should be able to relight the pilot and the functionality of your gas hot water heater should be restored.

you need to make sure that the control solenoid has vacuum and power and ground at the connector, or it will set that code. as long as you did not drop the plenum would should be fine, locate the control solenoid you should be fine

water valve located under the unit where the water line connects is either clogged with debris is unplugged, a small clip connects to the top of the valve, or the valve has gone out. The way this valve works is the dishwasher energizes the valve opening it to allow water flow. Once the tub fills to a preset level the valve is disengaged shutting off water flow. Best bet is to take model # and serial # to an appliance parts house and get replacement valve for around 20 u.s.d.
as you will see it is very simple to install.

Hope this has helped you

Dave

suspect water inlet valve is leaking when in closed position the valve is where the hose's hook up in the back unplug unit from wall to open top use a putty knife to push back small locks located just under top from front does not require much pressure to release top can see with flash light the valve is nomally held in place with two screws part most often has 3 wires 1common to both coils 1 for hot 1for cold if after valve is replaced verify hot and cold not reversed can always just swap hose's if wrong
to verify water coming from inlet valve and not another source can shut off water at wall for the 12 to 16 hours before replacing inlet valve