Microwave only 1 year 3 mths.

HELLO.

Follow some straightforward troubleshooting steps to make your microwave work like new again.

1 Make sure the door is closed. If the door is not closed tight, the microwave will not function.Sometimes food will get stuck in the door and prevent the latch from working. Use the paper towel to get the food out, then close the door carefully and listen for the latch to click.

2 Check the power sources. First, make sure the microwave is plugged in; the plug may have shifted or slipped partway out of the socket. If it is plugged in and still does not work, voltage test the outlet the microwave is plugged into. If you are not getting a reading, the breaker is probably blown. Reset the breaker for that outlet in your home's circuit breaker box.

3 Reset the microwave breaker. Take the back cover of the microwave off with a screwdriver. Inside you will find a motor. Most microwave motors have a small red reset button on them. Hit that button. Your microwave should work again if the breaker was the issue.

Thanks.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

This microwave has a 1 year warranty. You are going to need a new keypad to correct your symptom. Let Sharp pay for it.
http://www.sharpusa.com/~/media/15710197EE3140AD888B896ACDC912DD.ashx
(Choose "open" ) Then go to page 2 for contact information. Page 3 sates Parts and Labor 1 year.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

1) Plug the microwave into the outlet if the microwave won't power up. Make sure the plugs on the microwave match the type of outlet. A four-pronged outlet can only be used with a four-pronged plug. Same with three-pronged outlets---they only work with three-pronged plugs.
2) Inspect the plug. Make sure it hasn't been cut or tampered with. Four-pronged plugs can't be cut down to fit a three-pronged outlet. Three-pronged plugs mustn't be forced into four-pronged outlets. A three-pronged plug mustn't be used in a two-pronged outlet, either.
3) Replace blown fuses, or if there's a circuit breaker, check it for tripped breakers. Sometimes the trip won't be obvious, so cycle the circuit breakers. Turn them all the way off and then back on again.
4) Plug another appliance in the outlet. You will find this easier with three-pronged appliances. Simply plug a toaster, or other appliance into the microwave's outlet, and see if it works. If it works, you know the problem is with the microwave, not the power circuit. Have the microwave serviced or replace it. If the toaster or other appliance doesn't turn on, you know the problem is with the circuit.

F2.Q1 Not reading keypad
inputs
1. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
2. Replace the user interface board (UIB).
3. Replace the door control assembly.
4. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
5. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.

Many of the error codes may be solved by power cycling: unplug microwave oven or
disconnect power. After one minute, plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.

i found this info on a tech sheet hope this helps, let me know how it goes... some of those electronics had 5 year parts warranty i would check that out....Also u might be better of buying a new one if its out of warranrty as some of those boards are expensive, obvioulsy unplug unit first try to reset it self.

F2 is a membrane switch error.

1. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
2. Replace membrane switch.
3. If problem persists, replace electronic control.
4. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
5. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.

The answer to your question is YES. I would venture to say the PART is - but not the labor. You would need to read your warranty to confirm.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

a few possible causes,
1, the high voltage fuse,
2, the high voltage capacitor
3, the slow blow fuse ( normally found on a small pcb inside unit)

other than that, check the door switches and maybe the x former.
good luck.

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

It says:

F7 Power to magnetron interrupted

1. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
2. After 40 seconds, check to see whether this solves the problem.
3. Unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
4. Check cooling fan operation
5. Check the magnetron.
6. Check P65 connection on the relay control board.
7. Check the P56/P66 connection between relay board and relay control board.
8. Check wiring to the 1200W inverter and control system. See “Checking Inverters.”
9. Check operation of all interlock switches.
10. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
11. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.
12. Check voltage at 4903-1 on relay board. If it is 120, unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
13. Replace inverter.
14. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
15. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.
16. If problem persists, unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
17. Replace relay control board.
18. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
19. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.
20. If problem persists, unplug microwave oven or disconnect power.
21. Check for reversed plug connection on controls or loose wiring.
22. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
23. Plug in microwave oven or reconnect power.

If for some reason your tech sheet is not there, you can download it here.

We regularly repair control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week with a one-year guarantee.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

The button may be stuck... try cleaning the display really well.

My Whirlpool MH3184xps is shooting a spark when in use with the rack. When the rack is removed the oven works fine. I am guessing that some of the coating on the rack has cracked and peeled and is exposing some aluminum. Has anyone else had this problem?

Sounds just like a bad door switch or door switch mount. Probably the upper one. Safety info, disassembly tips, and door switch test and replacement info are all available at our Web site. See http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk