Making rattling sound

have an accredited electrician check the unit for a problem in the current usage when all burners are running ( elements shorting out through failing insulation, excessive resistance etc)
The circuit breaker should have sufficient capacity for all burners on at full heat but if one is shorting out through a developing fault , that may be exceeding the breaker capacity

Sounds as Element has DIED ,New element needed

I have the same problem,You will need a 15/16 socket and a rachet.Remove grill,then burner cap to expose range mounting nut use socket 15/16 to remove this work all the time for proper cleaning, NOW HERE IS THE PROBLEM, The nut is brass and it is screwed to the orifice holder,which seems to be made of aluminum.when i tried to back off the nut it freez up and continue to get tighter,as if it is cutting new threads in reverse,so im wondering if this metal combination of aluminum and brass is good,and if the severe heat in its path is not fusing the metals together.still trying to find answer.
KENTEMPO
[email protected]

Hi,

Which model do you have? Sound s light your unit re-ignites if flame goes out, if so, I would clean the burner. This means with a old toothbrush remove everything baked or burnt on. Assure your small orifice with in the burner is clean and you can see the port (hole in the center). Most of the time I have found clogged burners, or the burner cap (selected models) were installed incorrectly to cause this issue. Give that a shot and get back to me if you have more to add or just more questions.

Thanks

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Hello there
I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:

In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!



2. Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop. To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.



3. Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.



4. Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity. Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms, depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either terminal, the burner is defective.



5. If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram

Oven Thermostat Testing:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!



2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
   1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
   2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
   3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
   4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
   5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
   
   
   
3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

   Adjusting the thermostat:
   

4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.



5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.

Hi, Make sure the ignitor is actually sparking on this burner. Try removing the cap on the burner and scraping/sanding the bottom side where the ignitor spark hits it. Sometimes these will get a film on them and not let the spark work properly. If there is another cap the same size, you can try switching them and see if the burner lights. If that does not help, remove the cap again and see if there is something plugging the orfice at all.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist ou further.

Vic

1. make sure the gas is turned on.
2. Make sure unit is pluged in.
3 make sure all burner and burner caps are aligned.

If you hear a spark and you small gas it should light.

Make sure the burner heads are not clogged.

If this top has pilot lights make sure the pilots are lit

make sure the burner ports are not clogged. and the caps are properly positioned. clean ports with a wire or a straightened paper clip if clogged.

make sure the igniters are clean and dry

Our GE cook-top burner igniter has started ticking even when the oven is shut off. Even after cleaning the bottom of controls the ticking persists. Any suggestions? Thanks

Most of the time when I come out for a service call with this problem, it is usually because the burner cap is not seated properly on the base. Look at the burner and make sure there are no uneven gaps. Most of the time you will have to rotate the burner cap till a notch or pin "seats" into place. Most burner caps just sit on the bases, and so they get knocked off or moved when the cooktop is cleaned or installed. Hope this helps!