Husqvarna 450 e-series 18" Chain Saw Logo
j
john Posted on Apr 09, 2014

How to adjust chain oil

Bar is getting hot and not using much oil

1 Answer

Christo Dreyer

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  • Contributor 21 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 10, 2014
Christo Dreyer
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Joined: Aug 16, 2011
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Chain oil is not ajustable. the pump is most likely faulty or the oil ports blocked.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 27, 2008

SOURCE: husqvarnar model no 345 oil feed problem

First thing check the feed hole through which the oil is delivered to the bar itself for debris,secondly the worm gear turning the pump shafft need only be slightly damaged to hamper full oil flow , next take the oil filler cap off, (with the bar ,chain ,bar plates, and oiler removed ) look where the oil pick up is in the case half and remove it and check for clogging and / or tears in the rubber hose,
if the cap is equipped with a breathing filler cap check make sure the cap breathes this will also hamper maximun oil flow capacity,
I stand by this , as I have dealt with product for close to 2 decades and know it intimately
W.O.T. Technologies

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Anonymous

  • 211 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 01, 2008

SOURCE: husqvarna chain saw, model 455 will not oil properly bar and chai

hi cindilou50
check the oil filter from the oil tank,the oil line ,the worm gear and the oiler under the clutch.Clean the ways where the oil goes with compresed air.(after you fill out the oil tank)Also check the oil hose.

best regards savumihai71

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 14, 2009

SOURCE: my 455 rancher chain saw is not using her chain oil

Replace the oil pump..Or just try to clean it out but I have been through this and it worked for about ten minutes and I ended up just replacing the pump and works fine now. They are not very expensive (35.00-40.00) and only takes about ten minutes. Get a beer and a table or the tail gate of you truck should be fine. Take off the side cover remove the bar and chain. Clean everything up... air compressor is best a paint brush and rag works good if you do not have a air compressor. Take the top plastic cover (three screws on top of the saw). Pull the spark plug and feed a piece of rope into the cylinder. This will bind up saw so you can remove the clutch. I use a pull start rope from my old lawn mower and keep it in my saw box for this reason. This size and kind of rope seems to work best. Now you need to remove the clutch. There is an arrow on the clutch that tells you which way to turn it to get it off. This can sometimes be tricky but don't give up. I'm sure there is a tool for this and I keep saying that I'm going to make something. I use the handle of a good strong pair of pliers and turn the plier with a pair of vice grips. When you see the clutch you'll figure out something to use to loosen it and spin it off. Un-spin the clutch and remove the clutch drum by just sliding it off the spindle. Be careful because there is a bushing with needle bearings. The bearings are in there pretty good and wont just fall out. If you want to replace that you can 14.00 or so. There is also a plastic drive gear for the pump that just lifts out , replace it too 6.00 or so. Take off the metal cover I think it's just one screw. When you remove the cover you may see a lot of saw dust and oil all packed inside. If you have an air compressor just blow it all out. The oil pump is right there and is simply removed with one screw. clean every thing up put the new pump in put everything back together and you should be back in business.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 27, 2009

SOURCE: Where is the bar oil adjusted from on husqvarna 345

Turn the Hus 345 chain saw upside down, you may see a little Icon of a oil droplet and a + - arrow by the chain. THe adjustment screw is not pictured in any of the standard user manuals,. but it is a small black slot headed screw over a rectangale metal tab by the chain. I believe if you turn it counter-clockwise, it will give you more oil,, It did for me. If you have the bar off, you can start the saw and see it come out the hole, that would verify your oil pump is working. Make sure the holes on the bar are clean also. running the saw at a fast idle for 1 min should oil the chain well enouth that it starts spraying off the end of the bar when you gun the engine.

Anonymous

  • 2220 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 03, 2010

SOURCE: Problems with the 350 husqvarna bar.

If all you say is true and when revved up the saw oozes oil with the bar removed, then I suspect the bar is incompatible with the saw. Has the bar been replaced? The oiler holes in the bar must align with the channel in the saw. Oiler hole placement is part of the reason there are so many different part numbers for bars. The mount is only part of the requirement.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

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I have a Stihl MS 290, runs great, but the chain keeps tightening it's self on it's own

That's an unusual problem, usually the opposite happens. After making sure the chain brake is off, loosen the two nuts that hold the bar. Be sure to hold the bar up when adjusting the tensioner screw and adjust until the chain is just snug, but not too tight. While still holding the bar up, tighten the two nuts firmly. Check to see that the chain can move freely by hand. Then start the saw and run the chain at speed with something in front of the nose to check for adequate lubrication. You should note a slight fine spray of oil on the object in front of the nose of the bar. Inadequate lubrication, a chain that is binding on the bar, or an overly tight chain can cause the bar to heat up and expand, further tightening the chain. A properly adjusted Stihl saw will use almost all of the chain oil in the reservoir for every tank of gas. Too much oil is better than too little. The oil feed may have to be adjusted for operating in temperature extremes. If operating in very hot conditions, be sure that the saw has not run out of chain oil. The oil feeds faster when hot.
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Oil not coming out on the bar

Check chain oil reservoir, assuming it is full and pathways are clear, your oil pump might be toast , or not set up properly. Usually, there is an adjusting screw. Don't run it dry.
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No oil to chain stihl ms250

Oil pumper oil gear, needs to be adjusted or replaced. Check out a video how to replace.
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Chain has come off the holder

Remove the bar and chain from the engine. Lay the chain out on a flat surface in a circle and look for defects on either side of the chain. The chain should not be bent sideways at any point. If everything looks ok, start the engine to observe oil oozing from a small port in the engine side where the bar fits to. When fitting the bar/chain back to the saw, adjust the chain just up to the bottom edge of the bar, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Check the chain oiling by running the bar tip near some cardboard at speed for a moment or two--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Keep the chain teeth fully sharpened so that you have maximum cutting with minimal heat. If the chain tends to droop from the bar during use, it is likely getting hot. Don't force the cut, let the chain cut it's way through. The emitted sawdust should be chips and curls--a fine powder-like dust indicates dull chain teeth. Hope this helps!
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The saw is a 385xp. We have changed bars and chains numerous times. When sawing the bar gets hot enough to fry an egg and the chain stretches out. Onlynable to saw a minute or teo at the time. bar gets...

Overheating the chain/bar is usually caused by insufficient oil getting to the chain, but can be caused by the chain being too tight to begin with (you should be able to turn the chain by hand), grit in the chain groove, or a poorly sharpened chain. The saw has an oil volume adjustment screw on the lower part of the case near the chain return area. Turning it CCW should increase oil flow. Oil volume can be judged by running the saw tip at speed near some cardboard for a moment--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Chain sharpening condition can be judged by the sawdust residue coming from the cut--if a powder-like material, the teeth are not sharp or are improperly filed. You should not have to bear down excessively on the saw to make it cut quickly. Hope some of this helps!
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I have a husqvarna 257 with a 20inch bar and having oiling problems, is getting hardly any to no oil and have the oil adjuster screw the whole ways out, is the oil plunger bad?

If you take the bar off, and then run the saw, does oil come out of the saw? If it does, then the oil pump is likely working O.K.

If the oil comes out of the saw and does not make it onto the chain, it is possible that the oil exit slot on the saw, and the hole on the bar are not lining up properly. This happened on my Husqvarna 141 saw. The oil was coming out of the saw fine, but it never made it to the bar and chain. As a consequence the chain was always dry and very, very hot.

The other saws we use, always have plenty of oil on the chain. I think Husqvarna may have made a design flaw on some of their saws, and the exit point of the saw and the entry to the bar are not properly aligned. I wonder how many saws this affects.
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When i get about half way through a log my chain begins to smoke as if it is hot i have been round chainsaws enough to no that its not getting oil.. So i pull if from the log and place the tip above the...

Depending on the model, yes. But first I would remove the bar and chain and make sure the 4 or 5 square openings behind the bar for the auto oiler are not clogged with gunk. If everything is clear and the oiler adjustment is turned up as high as possible (15ml/min), you may have a problem with the internal pump.
Also, a chain will smoke if the tension is incorrect. Before you use it again, when cold check the chain tension. You should be able to see about half of the chain drive when pulling on the chain. Another thing may be the sprocket tip if applicable. Make sure it is properly greased each time you add fuel/bar oil.
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Remove the bar and chain from the engine. Clean the side of the engine where the bar fits, start the engine and run fast for several moments. Oil should ooze out of a port and run down the engine side. If nothing, then the oil lines, valves, tank filter, and the oil pump (behind the clutch assembly) should be checked for plugging, breakage, or other problems. If oil comes out, then clean the oil holes in the bar drive end including the two small holes that lead from the larger holes out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the entire chain groove. Oil and check the end sprocket for smooth, relatively free turning. Compressed air is very useful for cleaning these parts. Reassemble bar and chain making sure the adjustment tang drops into one of the large holes--you may have to back off the adjustment several turns to make this work. Make sure the chain cuts toward you on the bottom run and install the clamp nuts/bolts finger tight. Adjust the chain until it pulls up to the bar and you can turn the chain by hand. Run a line of oil around the chain to pre-lube it. Tighten the clamp nuts and retest the tension again. If ok, start the engine and run for several minutes, then place the tip near some cardboard and run at speed for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Make sure the chain is fully sharpened then try a few cuts. It should cut smoothly without any undue pressure from you. Hope this helps!
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Don't continue to try for high speed operation until the problem is rectified. Look for loss of chain oil or the chain is too tight. If it is equipped with a chain brake, make sure that it isn't dragging on the clutch rim. (It would be very hot or blue colored.) If no oil, remove the bar and chain--run the engine and watch for oil coming out of a port near the sprocket end. If it does so, clean the holes in the drive end of the bar, especially the small holes that connect to the chain track slot. Adjust the bar to tighten the chain enough that the chain doesn't begin to droop from the bar, yet turn freely by hand. If no oil comes out of the port, then the oil lines or the oil pump are/is faulty. Be sure to use bar oil only in the tank?
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Sounds like you're not getting enough oil to the chain. Basically you've got an oil pump, pickup and filter involved in getting oil from the resovior to the chain/bar. If you cleaned the obvious area and the chain is not coated with oil, you may have a clog further up (inside) the oil delivery mechanisms. Also, drain the oil from the tank, and see if you can "blow" air through there. With the saw running & pointed down, you should be able to see oil on the ground being slung off the chain, if not, you are not getting enough oil to the chain.
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