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stephen Posted on Apr 09, 2014

No power when the acc ignition is on no lights or radiono fuses are gone so any ideas?

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Michael Griffith

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  • Contributor 9 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 09, 2014
Michael Griffith
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Joined: Jan 10, 2010
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Check your fuse sounds like it could be a bad fuse

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0helpful
1answer

Where is the main accessory power fuse located on a 1998 buick regal ls 3.8

Not a fuse problem .
Voltage is applied to the left front window switch through the PWR WINDOWS PWR SUNROOF circuit breaker and to circuit 143
Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Circuit Description
The Body Control Module (BCM) controls the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) feature. The RAP feature allows for the operation of the following components for 10 minutes (or until a vehicle door opens) after the ignition switch turns from the RUN or ACC to the LOCK position:
• The radio
• The power windows
• The power sunroof (if equipped)
The BCM interfaces with the vehicle's power distribution through the RAP relay. The RAP relay allows the BCM to control the application of power to circuit 75. Circuit 75 provides power to the following circuits:
• Circuit 43 -- Radio
• Circuit 143 -- Power windows, and the power sunroof, if equipped
When the ignition switch is in either of the following positions, the BCM energizes the RAP relay by grounding circuit 707:
• ACC
• RUN
The BCM turns OFF the RAP relay when the ignition switch is in the START position. This action disables the RAP feature during the engine crank and bulb test.
When the ignition switch turns from the RUN or ACC position to the LOCK position with all of the vehicle doors closed, the BCM leaves the RAP relay energized for 10 minutes, or until any vehicle door opens. (The BCM detects a ground signal in circuit 49 or circuit 727).
The BCM resets the RAP timer when the ignition switch turns from the LOCK or OFF position to the ACC or RUN position.


I would check the RAP relay . Accessory Time Delay (RAP) Relay
Behind the IP compartment, attached to the underside of cross-car beam.
0helpful
1answer

Need a wiring diagram on suzuki raiderj 110. Please. Tnx.

Maybe you can use these codes taken from:

http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forums/showthread.php?120554-Motorcycle-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Thread

This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHTThis is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
This is a Wiring Harness Guide for Suzuki Smash, Raider J, ShogunR/Pro Motorcycles. It may also be applicable to Hayate, Step, Mola and Raider 150.

CDI
ORANGE - from Ignition +ACC
BLACK/swhite - Ground
WHITE/sblue - to Ignition Coil
BLUE/syellow - to ENGINE Stator side

ENGINE - Stator Single Phase
WHITE/sred - To RECTIFIER
YELLOW/swhite - To RECTIFIER
BLUE/syellow - from CDI sensor

ENGINE - Transmission Gearbox
GREEN/sblue - 1st Gear
YELLOW/sblue - 2nd Gear
WHITE/syellow - 3rd Gear
RED/swhite - 4th Gear
BLUE - Neutral

ENGINE - Rear Side
PINK - Odometer Speed Sensor
BLACK/swhite - Ground
ORANGE/sred -

ELECTRIC Start RELAY
YELLOW/sgreen - form Starter Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground

BREAK - Foot pedal
ORANGE - From ignition + ACC
WHITE/sblack - to Break light

BREAK - Hand Lever
ORANGE - from IGNITION + ACC
WHITE/sblack - To BREAK Light

FUEL Sensor
Yellow/sblack - to Console
BLACK/swhite - Ground

REAR - Lights
WHITE/sblack - form BREAK foot/hand
GRAY - From Night Switch
BLACK - from Left Turnsignal
LIMEGREEN - from Right TurnSignal

Signal Flasher Relay
ORANGE - from Ignition + ACC
LIGHTBLUE - Signal SW

RECTIFIER
WHITE/sred - From STATOR
BLACK/swhite - Ground
YELLOW/swhite - From STATOR
RED/sorange - BATT+/HEAD LIGHT

IGNITION Key
RED - from FUSE
ORANGE - to ACC

HORN Switch
BLACK/swhite - Ground
Green - to Horn

HORN
GREEN - from HORN Switch
ORANGE - Ignition + ACC

NIGHT Switch
RED/sorange - From Rectifier
GRAY - To REAR LIGHT/HEADLIGHT
0helpful
1answer

I have a 1985 Ford F150 That does not run. Will not turnover & no lights. I have had the alternator & battery checked. Both are good. I have replaced the starter selanoid coil, Ignition coil, starter...

There can be a starter lock-out which requires your to foot press the clutch or the brake pedal. But without lights you have a different problem.

Check your fuse block for power. There is a Master link somewhere under the hood and they usually put them close to the Positive side of the battery. The Master link is like a fuse only in wire form. You will also find a heavy wire that supplies power to the fuse block. Often the fusible link and the feed wire to the fuse block are the same wires.

Your Alternator, battery, etc. will test good all day long, but you need power in the fuse block.

Turn the Ignition to ACC and notice if the radio has power or turn the key to run and notice if the Brake lights work when you press the brakes.

If you have power there, then troubleshoot the wire to the starter relay. Most likely when you turn the ignition key(start) you will not have power going to the starter relay like you should. You can also test the coil Positive wire with the key in RUN position.
It should have power.

That's all I have for you.
1helpful
1answer

Cigarette lighter not working

Check the ACC fuse under the Hood, there may also be a secondary fuse under the dash in the fuse panel (look at the diagram for that fuse).

it can also be one of the wires slipped out from behind the lighter, Remove the lighter to verify this.. the ACC fuse controls all accessories like the Stereo and such. so if the stereo is working and the fuse's are good changes are its a broken wire or one that became loose. PS check the wires with the IGNITION ON FOR POWER. if there is power replace the lighter unit.
0helpful
2answers

2006 Chev Cobalt won't crank...no lights, no sounds nothing. When tried to get the key out it won't go past the ACC position? Any ideas on the problem?

Is the battery dead? Check your battery condition and connections. Check your starter fuse from there. Check the connection to the starter then progress to the ignition side of the concern
0helpful
1answer

Tryig to install an stereo o my toyota corolla but

Switch the ignition off and remove the key. Take a 12v light bulb and connect a wire to the chrome body of the bulb by taping it in place. Connect the other end to any metal part inside the cabin. You can use a clothes peg or insulation tape to hold it in place. Take the bare ends of any of the wires you have available as potential power leads and touch them to the lead contact on the bottom of the bulb. If it lights up it is to the battery. You must use an in line fuse on this wire. Isolate any other battery cables. Switch the ignition to acc and test again. Any wire that lights the bulb is working off the acc. If you touch the chrome body of the bulb with this wire you will blow a fuse.
3helpful
3answers

Toyota Caldina 2001 no power to cigar lighter, radio, clock!

Hi there
If it was the front dash mounted lighter socket you used, the correct fuse is the 15A CIG & RADIO fuse (at the end of the second row) of the dash fusebox. If replacing the fuse hasn't fixed it, you may need to look closer at the wiring from the fusebox as it's likely the wiring has gone open circuit.
Take the fuse out and check for voltage at the terminals in the fusebox with the ingition key turned to the ACC position. One terminal or the other will have 12V on it. If no voltage on either you have a fusebox to ignition key wiring problem. Check for voltage on the ACC pin of the ignition switch, with the key turned to the ACC position. That's pin 3, a blue wire, of the 8 pin ignition switch connector. If still no volatge the switch is likely faulty. the voltage into the switch must be there as it also feeds the ECU and IGN systems, so the car wouldn't run at all if it wasn't.

There is another possibility. If you have an alarm system, immobilizer or turbo timer (assuming the GTT model) these devices could be interrupting the power lines and be the culprit devices.

I assume it wasn't the rear hatch area lighter socket you used, because the fuse for that doesn't power the radio or clock. The fuse for that socket is the 15A ACCESSORY fuse in the passenger side footwell fuse panel.
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