Power connection to dishwasher

A mains cable is $5.80

https://www.newegg.ca/c2g-6-ft-black-power/p/N82E16812196313?item=N82E16812196313

There are only 3 connections on that, live neutral and ground. The wire on the other end or the mains transformer has a single plug with live and neutral as shown here. Not sure where you are finding 7 wires?
https://www.battdepot.com/ca/model/notebook+adapter/compaq/presario+cq56-200sg/ac19v90k3.aspx

Don't start messing with the motherboard connection over $5.80. Head down to Goodwill, you find them for $2 complete.

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Remove the switch handle cover and you should be able to see all the connections and wires going to and from the switch. Undo the clamp at the cable entry area of the handle. Mark or note which way the live (brown/black) and neutral (blue) wire go into the switch. Wire in the new cable, refit the clamp and put the handle cover back on. Fit a plug on the other end of the cable and you should be good to go. Always carefully check the saw functions properly before using it again.

With AC it doesn't really matter because AC votlage is alternating waveform. Ideally Blue to blue and brown to brown to keep conformity. It is also better for electrical safety because of the way circuit breakers are wired. Generally we fuse or break the line (live brown) in a circuit as a standard. But realistically the neutral is a live conductor also.

Only in sensitive control electronics would the AC polarity have any effect really.

Some people may disagree with me, but reality is AC voltage line and neutral measures and behaves the same no matter which way round the go, they are both live conductors and are not polarized. DC votlage has a positive and negative connection, and these most certainly need to be the correct polarity.

The burn out was most likely caused by a loose connection, or possibly a power surge, water leak or failed component.

I think it is best to connect power cable directly to the interference filter where is normally connected.
The interference filter is connected in the terminal board parallel to the mains feed. See below pictures:





Dado

The correct way is to split the handle and change the power cable at the connectors as per the original. One wire - the live - may connect straight to the switch while the neutral will connect to a blue or black wire leading further into the machine. Make sure that the machine is unplugged before attempting any repairs and make sure that the earth wire - if it has one - is firmly grounded on the machine frame. If possible, use lugs which correspond to the original ones on the cable ends, it is a much neater and safer connection than just twisted wires.

Avoid joining power cables, but if you must, make sure that the joints are staggered and soldered, individually insulated and then covered again as a unit. Heat Shrink sleeving is the correct method to insulate power tool cables.

Run two wires ((L)ive and (N)eutral) across each light and connect each light to these 2 wires till all 12 are connected. Then connect N to mains Neutral and connect the L Live to a switch and connect the switch's other wire to the main Live wire. You will need to wire a fuse in series. Use a switch that can handle the current total capacity or 12 lights. Use appropriate caution by switching off power when working on the wiring.

Loose Coonectons most likley or a power surge

if you have 120volts at plug,chk for a breaker inside unit and again voltage inside unit at terms on cord,then if so chk motor for a breaker on the motor,some have built-in breakers,then check door interlock switch for continuity and proper operation, then if electonically controlled check for a fuse and burns on the circuit,you may have suffered a voltage spike,and do it soon,the power supplier may be liable if you can prove he disconnected the neutral and you only had 240volts,this could be a cause also as it becomes a voltage divider circuit w/o the neutral connected

Probably not a cable failure more likely to be a screw in a connector block which has not been tightened correctly.

Unless you are a competant person I would not advise going beyond what you have done so far.

I would start at the plug top and make sure that the screws are tight on all connections then use a multimeter on ohms across the Live & Neutral to see if there was any resistance showing.

If that was dead then (WITH THE POWER OFFI would go to the terminal block which connects the power cable to the cooker and check for continuity using a buzzer on both Live & Neutral cable

If there is continuity on both then it is a case of checking for internal fuses on the unit or a bad connection leading up to or on the connector strip which supplies the on/off switches for the various elements.

I recently lost the front two rings on a Halogen cooker which had worked fine until we took it out to put a new worktop down.

The problem was a metal link which for over two years had been laying across the contacts without beeing fastened down.