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To convert a lincoln LP gas oven to a natural gas, you actually first of all need to buy from the supplier an orifice ment for natural gas and change. The difference in the orifices could be in the size of orifice aperture.
The orifice i'm talking about is located in the burner assembly. you got to dis assemble the burner so as to get to it.
After that you need to adjust the main gas manifold when the oven is on. The adjustment must be done such that the pilot flame is not yellowish
First check the regulator valve on the back of the stove. Chances are it is a dual purpose valve and once you are ready to do the converstion.. you simply will move the lever or change the setting from LP to NAT.(obvisouly before proceeding you need to have the fuel supply turned off to the appliance)
Next check under the range lid or on the back of the stove for the spare NATural gas orifices.. when they changed it out for you there were two scenarios.. the range (most do) came with a set of LP orifices..and they simply changed these out on each burner supply including brolier/oven. (orifices are interchangeable nozzles that are threaded into the supply gas burner)
If they had to swap out the regulator chances are they would have given you the one that came with your stove.. However I am fairly sure the regulator is a dual purpose and you simply need to change the setting from LP to NAT.
DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT CHANGING OUT THE ORIFICES FIRST.
If you cannot locate the spare orifices/spud/nozzles (they are called all of these) on the stove itself you will need to buy a set. A good appliance parts store will be able to help you with these.. again.. you will need one for each burner/burner supply.
If you can locate the range manual it will have instructions on how to do this.
Chances are your Natural Gas company will be able to help you with this.. especially if the regulator is dual purpose.. even if you can't find the orifices they are inexpensive.. fairly standard and easy to acquire. Usually just called a "conversion kit".. it will just consist of four or five small threaded 5/16 brass nozzles/orifices. The installation is pretty straightforward. Again..a good appliance parts store may recommend a service company...and if your not familiar with diy repairs on a gas appliance.. a 50 to 100 dollar service call is well worth the money.
It shouldn't be burning yellow and emitting soot at all;sounds like on of these possible causes-
(a)blocked burner airways(this can lead to yellow tipping and sooting on LPG powered appliances because insufficient air is getting through to the burner causing it;you can also get this effect on LPG barbecues say if dead insects or spiderwebs are in the burner pipes and airways after a period of storage),
(b)incorrect aeration being set when the burner was converted using LPG jets(too much gas and not enough air causing yellow flames/smells and sooting),
or (c) if you use propane cylinder gas a dicky or faulty regulator. I would get it looked at investigating all the possibilities I mention and taking action to correct this where necessary ie clearing the burner airways(if this is causing your problem), adjusting the aeration in the burners until you get a clear noiseless blue flame without any excessive yellow and sooting(but even after good adjustment you may find still get a very slight yellow tip without sooting at the top of the flame;this does happen with propane gas and there is a slight tendancy for this to happen more often with butane-butane tends to display very slight yellow tips on ignition increasing slightly as the burner warms up to full temperature) or if you use propane cylinder gas replacing the regulator if that is necessary.
Hello, You will need the owner's manual to follow their LP conversion instructions. You will need the make, model and serial # in order to buy the LP conversion kit (if needed) from a local appliance parts store or from the store where you bought the appliance. Typically, you will be either adjusting (turning down) or exchanging the main burner orifice(s), as well as adjusting the air shutter on the burner venturi tube, as needed for a bluer flame. The appliance regulator will need to be converted, which is usually done by flipping the cap. If you don't have your owner's manual, leave another comment for me with the model # and I'll see if I can find it online for you. I have not worked on this particular type of oven in my neck of the woods, but ovens are all pretty similar in design. Some also have a thermostat that needs to be converted by turning the Nat to LP selector behind the temp dial. Hope that helps. Douglas
Hi; Is the oven run with LP or NAT gas. Sounds like a regulator problem not letting enough gas through. Also is this a comercial unit. If so when was the last time all burners and pilot orafices were cleaned out. The burner tubes have a air vent cut into the burner at the orafice. Make sure no debris have covered these airways.And lastly how old are the thermocouples and are they secure to the gas valves and have a good pilot flame on them...
alpharome416
Hi i was reading your problem go to the appliances parts store tell them you need a gas valve Regulator that will change it from lpg to natural gas its natural gas it needs on the the 10 psi i think it should go back on the 25 psi thats only Regulates the flow of gas to high an to low dats all..i can be reach [email protected]
First thing you will need to do is find out from the manufacturer of the oven if there is a conversion kit available and if the appliance is convertable. If there is then you can order the kit and follow the installation instructions. Also check the back of the oven for an envelope that may contain the gas orfice replacement heads to convert the appliance to natural gas. If you find the replacement orfice then you will need to remove the lp orfice from the burner and install the natural one. Then the appliance gas regulator will need to have the pressure adjusted lower for natural gas. There is usually a removable cap on top of the regulator on the oven. When you remove this cap there is usually a small metal ring that you can remove and flip over. It will say "nat" on one side and "lp" on the other. You will need to turn this ring over and re-insert so it displays "nat". This will change the gas pressure from 13 inches W.C. to 4 inches W.C. Some appliances only require the orfice change and no regulator adjustment but make sure that is the case with your oven because if you feed 13 inches W.C. pressure to a burner with a natural gas orfice...YOU WILL GET A HUGE BURNER FLAME AND MAY BURN/FLASH YOURSELF...So use extreme caution when converting a gas appliance. And if the oven has a pilot you will need to adjust the pilot pressure or change it's orfice if it has one. If it is electronic ignition no adjustment to that will be needed. Also unplug the electrical power the the unit while working on it.
The declining pilot light might be an indication it is being starved of oxygen by the main burners or some other sort of circumstance.
I have noticed how in a closed room without ventilation the pilot light soon begins to decline and then springs back again when a window or door is opened while the main burners are hardly affected.
This is the gas equivalent of sending canaries down coal mines and is an essential safety feature. If the pilot light declines very much the thermocouple bulb will not be heated and the gas supply to the main burners will be cut off. This is why the pilot light is set at an angle and the thermocouple bulb is slightly offset.
In most cases the pressure regulator has to be changed or adjusted. The orfices on each burner, oven, broiler and surface burner may need to be changed also. Sometimes they can be adjusted. Sometimes the threads on the pipe are different also. This is to prevent accidental connection to the wrong fuel. The big difference is the gas pressure. LP is usually around 10 - 12 lbs and natural gas is usually around 3 lbs. Properly adjusted you will like natural gas much better than LP as it is slightly hotter. The information will be in the instruction book and also on the Jenn air web site. Whirlpool owns both Maytag and Jenn aire so check all sites. The conversion kit is usually less than $50.
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