Need replacement knobs for lever handles

Get new handle and clip, use small screw driver to lift metal lever through plastic trim and install release lever

Hi there! Yes it is. And cheap too! Here is a DIY (do it yourself) for how to replace your 5 series door handle. It takes about half an hour.

Door Handle Replacement

The fix is around $25 - $30 for the part. Check Pacific BMW or your local dealer.The part # is 51 21 8 226 049. The replacement part is obviously made of plastic. They do not replace just the HANDLE but rather the whole handle housing: the black part on the sideof the door where the handle is rested. The new part looks absolutelyidentical to the old part, so I thought I will be replacing them likeChristmas lights. But there is a slight difference and I will explain lateron what the difference is.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO TAKE APART YOUR DOOR ASSEMBLY.The only thing that needs to be taken apart is the black handle housing. You do not need to take the panel out.

1. You need to take the screw cap off (goes back only one way, so don'tworry). Use a flat head screwdriver.

2. unscrew the black screw (mine was black. there is only one screw there).Use Phillips head screwdriver. It will make the housing loose.

3. You need to pull the housing back as far as it will let you go (not too far, since it is still connected to the cable).

4. disconnect the cable. you will need to wiggle the whole thing and use setof long nose pliers. The end of the cable is attached to a thick metal hookand it is tricky to unhook that hook from the metal lever in the housing. Becareful, do not break things. If the cable runs away from you into thepanel, do not worry, you can get it with your fingers.

5. Take the new assembly and hook the metal hook to the new assembly.The trick part here is that the cable does not have much play (it is a BMW, let me remind) and the hook does not want to go where it belongs. You needto turn the housing the opposite way (180 degrees, it will be upside down,shiny part still facing you) and using the pliers hook the hook from downgoing up. Then you will need to turn the housing back 180 degrees. Do itcarefully so you do not catch with the housing the leather panels and don'tput scratches on the leather. It will look like if you put the hook from updown.

Next step is very important.

6. The housing has a guiding groove that goes behind the panel. You need tomake sure that the metal cable goes into that groove and plastic sleeve fromthe cable stays in the groove's wider opening as well. Otherwise, yourhandle will be there but will not open any doors for you.

7. Then screw the black screw back 8. and cover with the screw cap. (You might have to repeat steps 6 through 8 just to get it right) Voila. It is done. Now. The BMW solution for keeping the handles from breaking up. The replaced housing consists of 3 components: black housing, shiny "chrome" handle and a pivoting metal lever that keeps them together. On my original part, the lever had 4 "teeth" and the handle had 4 grooves for those "teeth".

On the new part, the lever had only THREE "teeth" and the handle had 3 grooves. Where the 4th groove would have gone, was just nothing. However, that "nothing" was filled with plastic, making the circular opening for the pivoting lever thicker where the 4th groove would have been.

On the original, that 4th groove made the plastic thickness at that spot about 1 mm, maybe less. Obviously, it was a weak spot. So I hope, This handle will last for some time. Time will show. [email protected]

P.S.

Time indeed can show a lot... On my first endeavour, I had the handle that broke off in the weak spot.. On my second "lucky" day, it was the metal pivoting head that broke off where the lever attaches to the main cylindrical body of the pivot.

My explanation is that the driver's door handle takes the most abusein the car - every time a car is used or driven, the driver's door ( and the driver'sseat) are being used the most. The next one in abuse would be the front passengerarea, the next one is rear right side and the side that takes the least abusewould be the rear left side.

From www.bmwtips.com

Good luck!
Alex

You need to remove the shift handle first...key must be on...no need to start...pull shift lever down to low gear...look on the back side of the knob...you should see a u-shaped clip head...pry gently under the u-shape with a scredriver to begin removal...then use needle nose pliers to completely pull the clip out...after this is removed...you will be able to kift the shifter knob off...Don't know if you mean replace shift knob...(known for breaking) or actual metal shift lever...if you need the shifter arm, your best find would be at your local salvage yard...some will remove for you...some will let you find your model and remove yourself...To re-install put the shift knob back on the shift lever...to lock in place then re-insert the u-clip to lock in place...Many good mechanics are not familiar with removing these shift knobs...Hope this helps.

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

Nope just the metals will last longer

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The pedal release can be replaced but the base will need to be checked for cracks as well. if the base is broken most common is the socket the pedal release snaps into. some of the plastic parts have been made with better materials

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_b96ba3f038cf317c

29 cent part my fix your problem. There is a nipple on the interior door lock lever that fits into a slot on the door handle lever. Look at passenger side to compare. The nipple is covered with a plastic spacer that may come off. The spacer keeps the lock nipple snug in the handle lever slot; pull the handle lever, it engages the lock lever, opening door. I bought a .29 cent aluminum spacer (#8x1/4 x 1/4) from Orchard hardware. Take needle nose pliers and slip the spacer on, then super glue. Unfortunately if lock lever (where riveted) is badly worn, then it may pivot upward instead of perpendicular to the door, thus defeating new spacer. But you may now be able to open door by pulling handle lever and lock lever at the same time. If you need to replace door handle, others on this site have suggested that you not replace metal frame that door handle is mounted on, but drill out rivets that hold door handle mount.

The handle that broke had a little 'finger' that actuated the release mechanism. The only way to open the back hatch is to remove the inner panel and push on the release mechanism.

Once off, you can either a) buy a replacement handle (expensive) or b) do what I did and simply make a piece of L-shaped metal to lever the release mechanism from the outside.

If your handle is completely off of the door you can look up under the little plastic cover (that hides the handle) and see the slot on the right side that the release handle inserts into. You need to stick the lever into that slot, and angle it down about 30 degrees from horizontal to get under the latch mechanism, which unlocks the hatch if you pry it upwards.

On the velbon vgb 3, the leg locks consist of a lever, one or two pieces of metal and a plastic piece. The metal and plastic pieces rest in a depression against the lever. When the lever is pulled out, pressure against the smaller leg section is released. When the lever is pushed in, pressure against the smaller leg section is exerted, locking the legs in place. On the back side of each joint, there is a phillips head screw which acts as a stop to keep the leg section from coming all the way out. When the screw is backed out, the leg section can be removed, exposing the latching mechanism. If the only problem is that the latch mechanism came apart, it can simply be reassembled. If, however, something broke and allowed the latch assemby to come apart, that will have to be dealt with as well. My guess is that the phillips screw may have become loose, and the latch came apart.