Timing marks 1997 Taurus SHO V8

Paul Thoegersen

• 95 Answers
• Posted on Nov 19, 2008

SOURCE: 1999 ford taurus sho v8

injector,plug,wire,coil, vacuum leak. Isolate 1 by 1 by moving them around to other cylinders to see if the problem moves with it.

SOURCE: IT is a 1998 taurus SHO model very rare it seems

If you are looking for a haynes manual or something which are based on complete tear down and rebuilds of the car, i would see if on the book itself it lists your engine, yamaha only made one car engine really and it was for the SHO which is fantastic however rare, look online and in google for a manual that lists your car, if you are not a fan of buying online, try phoning a company but unless the book you are searching does not list your engine it might cover all the rest but not your powertrain.

Here is a book i found online its a chilton.


http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/product/080199117X

SOURCE: Broken serpentine belt on 1999 Taurus SHO

i needed a certain diagram also ang just googled serpentine belt diagrams and it took me to a site and iit was free but i didnt save the name try google

SOURCE: Hi, I need to know

Actually,the chains shouldn't matter.The sprockets are what get lined up and the chain just constantly turns.The gear itself is what needs timing marks,not the chain.I really don't know how to describe it but it's just a chain.If you have any questions or need more help,just comment here and I will get an autolink to your post and reply ASAP.Greg

ZJ Limited

• 17989 Answers
• Posted on Jun 17, 2011

SOURCE: Where is the airconditioning orfic

It's located inside the A/C line it self usually by the fitting that's closest to the radiator. Here is the location and replacement procedure for the orfice tube. You will not a special tool is requiered to remove and reinstall the tube in the line; trying to use pliers or something similiar usually results in damage.

NOTE: The A/C evaporator core orifice should be replaced whenever an A/C compressor is replaced for lack of performance (internal damage).

The A/C evaporator core orifice is located in the discharge line.
The A/C evaporator core orifice is constructed with a plastic body. two screens and a small brass tube down the center of the A/C evaporator core orifice body. Two O-ring seals are around the A/C evaporator core orifice body to seal against leakage around the body.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove the A/C evaporator core orifice with pliers or to twist or rotate the A/C evaporator core orifice in the discharge tube. To do so will break the fixed orifice tube body in the discharge tube. Use only the recommended tool.

REMOVAL:
- Discharge A/C system. Refer to System Discharging and Recovery. Remove condenser to evaporator tube.
- Pour a small amount of clean Motorcraft YN-12b Refrigerant oil meeting Ford Specification WSH-M1C231-B into the outlet end of the discharge line to lubricate the tube and O-ring seals during removal of the A/C evaporator core orifice.
- Engage the Fixed Orifice Tube Remover/Replacer T83L-19990-A with the two tangs on the A/C evaporator core orifice. Do not twist or rotate the A/C evaporator core orifice in the discharge line as it may break off.
- Hold the T-handle of the Fixed Orifice Tube Remover/Replacer T83L-19990-A to keep it from turning and run the nut on the tool down against the discharge line until the A/C evaporator core orifice is pulled from the tube.

NOTE: If the A/C evaporator core orifice breaks in the discharge line, remove it from the tube with Broken Orifice Tube Extractor T83L-19990-B as follows: To remove a broken A/C evaporator core orifice, insert the screw end of the Broken Orifice Tube Extractor T83L-19990-B into the discharge line and thread the screw end of the tool into the brass tube in the center of the A/C evaporator core orifice. Pull the A/C evaporator core orifice from the discharge line. If only the brass center tube is removed during Step a, insert the screw end of Broken Orifice Tube Extractor T83L-19990-B into the discharge line and screw the end of the tool into the A/C evaporator core orifice body. Pull the A/C evaporator core orifice body from the discharge line.

INSTALLATION
- Lubricate the O-ring seals on the A/C evaporator core orifice liberally with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oill or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.
- Place the A/C evaporator core orifice in the Fixed Orifice Tube Remover/Replacer T83L-19990-A and insert the A/C evaporator core orifice into the discharge line until the A/C evaporator core orifice is seated at the stop.
- Remove the remover/replacer tool from the A/C evaporator core orifice.
- Using a new O-ring lubricated with clean Motorcraft refrigerant oill YN-12b or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B, install the condenser to evaporator tube.
- Leak-test, evacuate and charge the system following the recommended service procedures. Observe all safety precautions.
- Check the system for proper operation.



If you have experienced an internal compressor failure that has resulted in debris being spread throughout the system, it is also a good idea to consider installing a new condenser and taking one of the hoses to a shop that can crimp an inline filter into the hose to catcch any small aprticles of debris that remain in the system from the previous failure. it on ly takes one tiny particle of metal to completely destroy the new compressor if it should work it's way back to it and get inside. The reason that condenser replacement is often recommended on Fords is because debris can become wedged inside the condenser tubes under high pressure causing condenser flow restrictions; there is no way to remove this typoe of debris if this happens. If you read the fine print in the literature that came with the new compressor, you may find that these 2 things (condenser and/ or inline filter) are required to keep the compressor warranty valid (the specific requirements vary by brand).

As far as the hose being stuck to the drier, this happens often. Try spraying a little WD40 penetrating oil into the connection, and twisting it in back and forth a few times before trying to remove it. If it cannot be removed without damage a new hose may be required as well to complete the repair.

Hope this is help.