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I made video how to replace compressor on true air beer cooler, should be the same for most of prep tables and etc. Hope That helps someone. REPLACING COMPRESSOR TRUE AIR BEER COOLER R134A
Contact a professional. The power supply source needs to be testing to the compressor and see if the power is fine, or if the compressor is faulty and not drawing needed power.
It sounds like you may be low on refrigerant (freon). One way for a novice to check this is to look at your compressor. There are two line coming out of the compressor. The comressor is the black thing about the size of a bowling ball under your freezer behind the grill. The small line coming from the compressor to the "radiator" behind that lower grill should be very hot coming from the compressor. The big line going into the compressor should be very cold to the touch. If that is not the case you are low on refrigerant. Without gauges and a supply of refrigerant you can't fix it yourself. Second thing to check is the thermostat is it set all the way to cold? If not turn it clock wise 1/5 turn and watch to see if the temperature goes down.
your freezer is short cycling which is bad for the compressor. Usually there is an internal overload in the compressor that automatically resets as the compressor cools. Check to see that all of the coils are clean and the small fan is blowing. this will make sure that the airflow correct. look for signs of oil around the compressor, the coils, and any connecting tubing. if you find oil, this is a sign of refrigerant leaks. the refrigerant is what cools the compressor and it wont run long in an overheated condition. it will finally fail in the open position and not come back on.(compressor overload switch) If this is the case you may replace it cheaper
compressor relay is probably going out...also check the plug in to the wall. A intermittant contact is a matter of following the source to the compressor. start at the plug and through the temp sensor/ t-stat defrost control and down to the compressor. but ususlly the compressor relay is the culprit.
Bypass the cold control and see if it comes on. If it does then change the cold control if it dont then examine the compressor relay and see if it is burned up. If the compressor relay ain't it then you have a bad compressor.
find thermostat. if open its bad, set to max cold and see if it comes on. if it doesn't gently tap it ,if it comes on its bad and sticking open. replace it. if the compressor doesn't run with stat bypassed the compressor or start components are bad. re[plce start components and if still no run the compressor is bad. usually not worth expense of new parts.if compressor is at fault. good luck.
heres a part number for the overload relay assy 5304468029.. its mounted on the side of compressor. its a tricky one, usually my experience has been the noise comes from a bad compressor( which you should have 5 year full warr from manufacture). sometimes the overload relay does go bad preventing compressor from starting,the n ew compressor will come with a new overload relay
pretty basic stuff. power cord could be abaded . check to be sure power is reaching the stat with a meter. if it is then check to see if its reaching compressor with a meter, obviously the box is hot so sta t should be calling if power arrives at stat but doesn't come out stat is bad. if it gets to compressor but no run then the compressor start components or the compressor itself are bad. stat has a power in lead and a power out lead. if you check volts between terminals and show 120 the stat is open and bad. if it is set to max cold and failing to send run signalit has to be the stat. if you have power to stat and stat shows no voltage terminal to terminal then its closed and power is not getting to compressor, trace wiring and check .if power is getting to compressor the checjk start cap and relay . if they are good then compressor is bad , usually to expensive to replace.
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