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Maytag, top-loading, about 13 years old; had load of clothes and during the wash cycle, I smelled a combination of rubber and electric wiring; looked up and saw my kitchen smoke-fill. Went to washer, open lid and smoke was coming out. I unplugged the washer, took the clothes out and waited to see if the smoke continued which it did not. Is this a burned out motor and broken belt?
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Maytag is strong, durable and worth every penny. If I was buying another washer It would definitely be a maytag. They wash clothes thoroughly. Of all household appliances if have to have a maytag washing machine and my favorite vacuum cleaner. Washing machines use a combination of water, detergent and wash action to deliver cleaning performance. Wash action is the movement of clothes provided by the washer during a cycle, and this can be different in front load vs. top load machines, as well as top load agitator vs. impeller models.
Is the machine operating properly, or are your clothes getting a musty smell?
The musty smell has a few solutions, One may work but probably a combination of all will work best.
Immediately move wet clothes to the dryer, do not let them sit in the washer for a long time. If your clothes smell, put mouthwash with your clothes directly in the tub during the wash cycle (this will not stain your clothes) leave the door open when not in use (lets it dry out) If the washer smells, use bleach and hot water in an empty cycle once in a while (kills just about every kind of bacteria or mold which may be causing the smell) Use washing machine cleaner once in a while(can be found at your local grocery store isle next to detergent) Dry your clothes completely, damp clothes can start to smell again.
If you are looking for a new washer, try to find a newer model that features a stainless steel tub with silver impregnation. The silver is a natural disinfectant.
It seems you need to have a new sealing rubber fitted. IN THE MEANTIME, if the knocking happens again when the spin starts, stop the machine, let the washing drop to rest, and then start it again, the re-positioning of the fabric inside the drum should even out. Also, do not load with say.. only towels, that way the weight is one sided and will make the drum spin in an uneven way.
The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.
PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a “Clean Cycle” available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.
CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.
LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.
NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.
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this is a bogus website that is trying to push smelly washer product....no real fixes and there are other products out there for less just use bleach first
A lot of people may be searching for help with horrible sounds and burned belts for Maytag and Admiral washers only a few years old from Home Depot etc. They used a cheap pump that has a corrugated sheetmetal ring that holds the bearings. Well as it runs the vibration and friction cause it to slip down and grind on the pulley as well as not turn easily. If you put the washer on it's back and turn the small pulley and it turns with a gritty feel or you can actually see a loose metal collar type ring thing that looks like a cookie cutte; then you have a bad pump.
There is a small access panel on the back of the washer. Three screws and two spring clips on the hoses and you're done (use big pliers on the hoses). Put the belt back on (just push motor to one side, it's not tight), then check for leaks and reinstall the cover. VOILA! You can find the pump on ebay for $25 or your local GE parts dealers for $50.
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