Chain still moves, gears shift properly, however the chain moving does not move the wheel itself. Have been informed this is a freehub issue, however being a single mom with limited income to begin with do not have the funding to take to a bike shop. Any links to diagrams, etc., would be greatly appreciated.
Unfortunately, there is only one last ditch effort to free up that freewheel. The following link takes you to a very simplified diagram of how a freewheel works : File Roue libre cliquet svg
What's happening in your instance is that the pawl, colored red, is not engaging the outer teeth, possibly due to corrosion, or age. What you can do is use a penetrating oil to get inside the mechanism to try to free it up. In the following link, you will see a freewheel that is most likely similar to yours: Shimano Hyperglide Freewheel
You want to add oil to the edge of that inner ring that says "Shimano" (yours may not say that), while spinning the cranks to draw the oil in. Hopefully, after a while, and maybe a lot of oil, the pawls will free up and start catching.
Good luck!
SOURCE: mongoose tactic mountain bike / loose crank on
The crank has to be removed to tighten the nut that holds the gear on. I assume that is your problem is with the chain gear on the sproket that is loose
Testimonial: "I need a special tool to remove crank /nothing Ive ever seen"
SOURCE: The chain is broken off
The chain goes from the top of the front sprocket to the top of the rear sprockets, between the rear sprocket and the top derailleur wheel and then between the upper and lower derailleur wheels. It then goes forward toward the front sprocket. The text sketch below shows the rear sprocket, chain and derailleur.I hope this helps.
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Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.
Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)
Closeup of setting the limiting screw. Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works). Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw. Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.
Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.
Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied. Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.
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