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Posted on Jun 14, 2009
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My drain hole is stripped on my hayward pool pump. the threads are completely gone as i was trying to put a metal fitting in the hole for the use of an ozone generator. can i re thread the hole? it is a plastic housing like most pool pumps

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  • Posted on Jun 14, 2009
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There are a couple of ways to do this repair, First way is to buy a reducer bushing (threads on the inside and smooth surface on the outside), drill out the hole to tightly fit the bushing, and prime and glue it in place. The second way is to buy a tap (the next size up), buy a brass reduser bushing with threads on both the inside and outside. If you dont have enough material to inxdease thr hole size, then you will need to buy some J.B. weld and fill the hole, wait 16 to 25 hours to drill and tap

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1answer

What size is the drain plug on my Hayward pool pump s166t

Most Pool Pumps use a 1/4" regular standard thread.
Thats pretty standard.
Now the filters from Hayward vary! They use a cap normally, and size is all over the board.
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Imhave stripped threads on my sand filter housing where the pressure gage fits

That hole that you thread in your pressure gauge is 1/4" size. The pressure gauge is a 1/4" x 20 threads NC.

So, the fix I would attempt is to drill out the hole to the next size up and re-tap new threads - I would go to the next commonly used size: 3/8".

to do this: Obtain the proper drill bit size for a new 3/8" hole. That drill bit size will be a 37/64". Once you drill out the stripped hole to the next size opening, get your 3/8" Tap, and slowly & carefully start turning in a clockwise direction. Make one complete rotation, check to see if bites into the new hole, if not, then push into the hole a little bit harder, and try again. Once it bites, turn 1 more full turn and then backup a 1/2 turn. Continue a full turn, back up a 1/2 half turn. What this does, will break away the plastic fragments and will clean out the hole so it will not ruin the new cut threads.

Once the tap is in about half way, thread the tap all the way out, and then turn the tap back in by hand. It should screw in easily, yet firm.

Now you will need a reducing bushing. Threads on the outside of 3/8" and inside threads of 1/4". This is a reducer bushing commonly labeled 3/8" x 1/4" NPT also sometimes known as a Hex bushing 3/8"x1/4" NPT

Use only 4 wraps of teflon tape wrapping in a "Counter" clockwise rotation, on both the busing and the new pressure gauge.

Good Luck
0helpful
1answer

We bought a house last year that has a pool with a Laars Lite 2 heater. The drain plugs were not on the unit and we've tried to replace them, but it seems that either the treads are stripped or they...

We come across these from time to time and we were told that when the part is installed at the factory it is by machine...sometimes they end up so tight that removing them strips the threads. In the past we take a pipe tap out and re-thread the hole and then the new drain plugs will fit fine. It is a 1/4" MPT (often referred to as NPT on taps) pipe tap (tapered). You may find a local pool or pump service company or maybe a plumber that will lend it or make the service call to do it for a reasonable price.

John
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I CAN'T GET THE COVER OFF THE PUMP STRAINER BASKET. I WAS TOLD THERE WAS A TOOL THAT FITS OVER TO MAKE IT EASIER.DO YOU KNOW OF IT

http://www.epoolshop.com/hayward_super_ii_pump_parts.aspx?variation=13732


It depends on the lid, the threaded lid on hayward can use two types of lid wrenches. One is the one made by hayward, the other is a metal wrench made my the pool tool company. Check out the link about to see if that would work.
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Just had pool opened. They turned port dial to 2

Welcome to FixYa
Dear Sir/Madom,
If your skimmer is tied to your main drain, then both holes have to be uncovered for your skimmer to work.
If you have a separate line all the way back to your equipment from your main drain, then you may want to try to open both holes in the skimmers. Turn off your Unit to unscrew the retaining screw on the valve, and then slide the big end over.
If you've not had your pool run all winter, then you may have leaves/debris caught in the line.
If so-you can swing by a plumbing supply house and get a powerflush hose attachment.
  • Make sure that none of the holes in any of your skimmers are covered by the oval tab in the skimmer.
  • Then, if you have any valves on the inlet to pool pump, rotate them in such a manner to isolate the skimmer line that isn't working, making sure that it is open.
  • Place the hose and powerflush device in the upper inlet port of the pool pump, with the pump lid/cover and basket removed. Then, pressurize the line back to the pool with tap water.
  • If it doesn't release right away, then let it sit a little while, as you may have to "pulse" it as water pressure drops as water leaks around the clog.
  • Pulsing it means to turn the water on for a few minutes, then turn it off. Then, turn it back on, and then turn it off again.

Look down into the bottom of the skimmer. It will have either one or two holes, depending on your model. These holes are where the pool plumbing attaches to the skimmer. Most skimmers have threads inside the holes, and a copper or PVC threaded fitting screws into these ports. Squirt food coloring just above the holes and see if any of it is pulled down into them. This indicates a leak which may be caused by a poor seal between the skimmer threads and the fitting. If you put your finger into the holes, you should be able to feel where the top of the fitting meets the skimmer threads.Repair any cracks or breaks in the skimmer walls with epoxy putty.Use the silicone sealer to repair areas where the skimmer has pulled away from the pool wall, where the corners are cracked, and in tile cracks. These leaks are the result of a cracked bond beam or shifting soil from water getting into the ground around the skimmer.
Also Check this Link
I hope you got an idea...thank for Using FixYa...
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Hayward pump hose and intex pool

Im thinking that hot glue would not harden completly in a direct sun situation not to mention the potential mess
What I did was go to my local hardware store and bought rubber o rings ( sorry dont remember what size) put them on the fitting slipped the hose over it and clamped on top of that area. Has been fine all summer

hope you figure it out
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The threads are stripped on my Hayward sand filter drain plug.

I've had the same problem every year since I bought this house 10 years ago with my Hayward filter drain and finally MacGyvered a great solution. Went to Home Depot and bought a 1" PVC shutoff valve. The Hayward drain has an outside 1 1/4" thread. The part I got was an 'Aqua-Dynamic' 1" PVC Schedule 40(I can't find a picture of it on the internet). It is a white PVC valve with an inside thread that mates with the Hayward and a red shutoff winged knob. You need to hacksaw the red wings off the knob in order to be able to screw it onto the drain because the filter's base gets in the way. Leave the valve in the open position(especially if water is still draining with filter off) and put PVC cement on the outside of the drain thhreads and a bit on the inside of the valve and screw it on. When the glue dries(5 minutes), you now have a drain that you can open and close every year with ease(you need a pair of pliers because the wings are off the turn knob but it works great!)
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Cap won't thread

The problem was solved by lubricating the O ring with Vasaline.
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