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floyd davis Posted on Mar 15, 2014
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Plug wet with fuel

Replaced all fuel lines bulb pumps up ok spark OK but engine is flooded

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Andrew White

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  • Master 2,239 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 28, 2014
Andrew White
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Joined: Dec 08, 2010
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You need to pressure test the carb, if the needle is leaking in the seat it will just flood all the time, if you do not have a small pulb pressure tester you may need to get the local dealer to do it, or just fit a new rubber tipped needle and hope this will cure it, if there is two hoses to the carb make sure you have connected the pipes in the right orientation, the suction side of the primer should pull fuel from the carb, and dump back to the tank, it does not push fuel into the carb, this will make it flood.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 17 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 28, 2008

SOURCE: Husqvarna 350 running problem

Pull off the exhaust, does the piston look ok?
If scored thats not good.
If ok check fuel filter , pressure test lines or remove and check for cracks. Just a start but check easy stuff 1st or get back to me with more info, cheers

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Anonymous

  • 2220 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 28, 2009

SOURCE: poulan 2150 cainsaw will not start .replaced spark plug ,

I suspect your ignition module is bad try this.

Ignition Coil Test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4&feature=PlayList&p=3789DC1EE87C8098&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=21
You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. There is no need to bend the electrode. HTH
Lou
It may be flooded too. You shouldn't need to choke it for more than 2-3 pulls.
Husky (cold):
1, Ignition on/off to on
2. Pull (close) choke (also sets fat idle); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually twice)
3. Push (open) choke (fast idle maintained) pull starter until it starts. Usually first pull)
Warm:
1., 2. (without pulling starter), 3..
Hope this helps
Lou

Testimonial: "recommedation very useful thank you. you guys are good."

Anonymous

  • 302 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 08, 2009

SOURCE: will not start - new fuel 50-1 mixture, checked

Will it start if you pull the plug and spray starting fluid in the chamber? if so then I'll bet you have a blown diaphragm in the carb or a plugged fuel filter or a bad gas line. hope this helps. Jeepfxr

Anonymous

  • 148 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 19, 2009

SOURCE: NO SPARK, HAVE NEW PLUG BUT IT CONTINUES TO FLOOD.

If raw fuel comes out of the muffler then you have an extreme flooding condition. There are no Model Numbers to tell me which type of saw we are working on but this works most of the time.

Try this: Remove the spark plug and BE CERTAIN the stop-switch is in the OFF position. Take the saw outside and bring a fire extinguisher with you! Hold the saw by the rear handle and let the muffler hang down to the lowest point possible. SLOWLY begin to pull the starter rope and observe the fuel being pumped out of the muffler. Gradually increase the speed of the rope pull and get as much fuel out as possible. When satisfied that it's dry, it isnt. Use compressed air to LIGHTLY blow into the spark plug hole and continue to pull the rope. (Might need 50 or more pulls!) Blow the spark plug dry and reinstall it.
Turn the switch ON, leave the choke OFF, and hold the trigger wide open. Start the saw and allow it to run at full throttle until it clears out all unburnt fuel and has good throttle response. If you need further assistance reply to this post with the make and model of the saw and I will be happy to help.

Hope this is helpful,
Dolf-

Anonymous

  • 2220 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 06, 2010

SOURCE: chain saw no start

It needs spark, fuel and compression to run, which is missing?
Lets start with spark. Replace the plug (very inexpensive and great insurance), then do this:
Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4
You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode.

Before we get to fuel please download and follow the start procedure in your Operator's Manual here:
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
I own a Husky 359 that 1 time I forgot to set the fast idle (close then open choke). It was near impossible to start. I have missed the initial attempt to fire and flooded it too, again almost impossible to start.

If it has spark and the start procedure fails, put a teaspoon of fuel mix in the carburetor throat, open the choke, and pull. Does it fire and attempt to start? Yes it probably has a fuel delivery problem. Please repost with what you did and we will continue. HTH
Lou
IMO regardless of what your manual says ( yours probably 50:1) all 2-cycle engines should be operated on 50:1 (1 gallon of premium fuel to 2.6 ounces of quality 2-cycle engine oil). Once adjusted for this mix they start easier, pollute a bunch less, and do not foul out plugs, cylinders, or mufflers. Run lean conditions are most often caused by dirty air filters, air leaks not detected by the operator, or failing to add any oil to the fuel in the tank. Using a 32:1 mix prevents none of these occurring! I use a Pioneer chainsaw I purchased new early 1980 with a 50:1 mix.

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My 8 hp Tecomseh on a snowblower backfires excessively and now won't even start. It ran fine 3 days ago.

Remove spark plug. If it's wet with fuel then likely it's flooded. Pinch off fuel line, dry out cylinder by pulling starter rope several times while spark plug removed. Dry and install spark plug.

If plug was dry or once you dryed cylinder and plug, set half throttle. Leave fuel line pinched off and spray a short 1 second burst of starter fluid directly into carburetor throat. Promptly pull starter rope up to three times.

If fire and runs for a second or two then spark is ok. If no fire, recheck for flooded cylinder. If not flooded, then no spark or low compression. Else release fuel line and attempt start. If no start or runs and stalls then likely it needs further carburetor work or bad fuel. Recheck for flooded cylinder.

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25 hp Mercury 4 stroke will not start or starts extremely hard.

indicates rubber bits in the pump and float needle and seat causing flooding if the plugs are wet
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My 2004 Dodge Stratus Coupe SXT went out. It was running fine now it tries to start. It' about to start but it won't kick over. Fuel pump was replaced but nothing still.

does it have spark? you may want to check for this and make sure its getting to the plugs. check a plug to see if is wet with gas. if you dont think its getting gas, check and see if you have fuel pressure. if its ok you need a noid light to make sure you are getting a pulse to the fuel injector. if you have fuel and spark, the only other thing is air. if the timing belt is good and the catalytic converter isnt clogged, it should be sucking air (vacum). if the plugs are wet, it may be flooded
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1998 jeep grand cherokee will not turn over but fuel pump is fine

fine? ( 30 to 40PSI , fine, not squirt tests or sounds)

EFI demands full pressure all the time, its not like carb cars of old.

first off, no engine stated ,so all help will be poor, all cars have engine options.. to work on any car , open hood, (USA commenter) and look up see that EPA sticker there, and the engine ID< and displacement?



That is first. (ill pretend , you drove to my shop and what id do)

i ask owner, when\'s the last time car was a daily driver?, last week or last decade>? (bad fuel, etc,....happens)



i stick finger in air, its 50F, not -40F air temp, ok not in Canada. cool. er its hot...

i open hood and see a I6 4.0L engine, with EFI. ok.



2: i check all the fuses. it\'s EFI and blown fuses, will kill the show.

3: i turn the key , and check engine lamp glows, (ECU is happy)

(ecu has juice , so boots and glows CEL, to say so)



4: i crank it, it cranks over 250 RPM, sounds like normal fast cranking

we all know that sound, we dont use the tachometer...



5: i then ask owner , evah\' tune it up this decade, answer no.

SSDD !

i then do the tune up, plugs were ratty. all spark parts, filters.

we dont use $100/hr labor to find ratty spark parts the install them

its called a tune up.



car runs like new. (end story) no?

or it was tuned up;.

so, i check spark it is blue-white on my test spark plug (new) times 6.

i then check spark timing, it\'s dead on, good, if off i fix that first.



if timing is off on most cars i check compression as some like

to slip cam timing. (i saw a V6 once with plastic timing gears. once burned ,twice shy , i check it all) (i do a compression test on all old motors. so I can see TRUTH, and potential future LIFE of engine)



ok, spark is perfect,please note my order, good motor?, good spark?

with bad motors and spark the fuel can not burn, not fully.



then, i try "test fuel" (can-o-spray) car runs for 3 seconds. and stalls.



my gosh, the motor and spark were good. verrroooooom stall....



(btw, this here, logic flow is bad on DOHC motors, 99% true) ask



i check spark plug tips and they are dry. (wet is flooding)

DRY !

i suspect low or no fuel pressure, i know from experience

that fuel pumps about 75% do not run only key on, only cranking

and running they run. so i check pressure.



i find its 10psi.

the story gets longer for flooding or injectors tests, ill skip that.. ask.

so 10psi,. i find

1: 12v to pump is really just 6v, if fix bad connector up stream from pump. done.

2: if 12v to pump cranking, mine was 11v, but the starter does that. drop so is ok. (study starting systems) , its good line voltage is good. cranking.



3: i then check the fuel pressure reg, and find the thing stuck wide open , i replace the reg. and pressure is 34 PSI (wild guess. didnt look yours up. ) car runs prefect now.

or

4: i find FPreg ok, but pump is weak, new pump saves day..

i have a scope and can see this pump is noisy, has a bad commutator segment, deep inside it... scopes, rule.

all above is good?

if pump pressure is at spec. cranking, then

do this long story, omitted due to fingers sore.

ask

the pump tests and spec are all covered 100% in a real FSM.

the spec is covered at alldata.com, log in and see it.

btw, all EFI just hates low fuel pressure.

the whole system is turned for good pressure,

and many systems do not even monitor it.

To understand that read the books by, Greg Banish



http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Management-Advanced-Greg-Banish/dp/1932494421/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388070570&sr=8-1&keywords=greg+banish.



the pressure must be at spec, and must regulate perfectly

or the ECU fuel tables are all TRASH.



hard starts. (fast starter) nut shell.

1: bad fuel. or running summer fuel in winter

what is your air temp, not stated, and is big factor ,if very cold.

2; no tuneups. ever done.

3: bad spark or timing off,

4: low compression.

5: bad ISC, try starting with 10% throttle ,to mimic a good ISC.

6: flooding. soaking wet spark tips.

7: under fueling, dry sparks.



try test fuel. if dry.
0helpful
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1992 isuzu pickup,2.6 engine , surges up and down after 10 minutes then shuts off

1992, PICKUP, in USA? what country , ? cars are not same all over earth. sorry.
engine surges, then stalls. correct.>?

nice testing , rare here, real nice !!!!
spark good as it stalls
so if engine is ok, compression, (seems cat is not melted with 20 " HG)
is flooding or starving for fuel,.
one or the other, you can find that out.
if spark timing was ok, then the belt did not slip. on cam)
leaving only fuel issues.
so DO the magic , WOT, cranking trick this trick (logic in ECU)
cuts the injectors dead, cranked, to unflood all engine with EFI.
do that?
check spark tips, for 3 to 4 hours dead.? be next
2.6L (is 4 cylinder.) is cam belt drive, i never fail to check it first
the fail, at 60k miles, all do. all rubber band engines do.,

if all this is ok, not flooding
one can start engine with test fuel, and even keep it running
even with (hint) fuel pump relay pulled.
if that works, the fueling is wrong.
injectors leaking,? ?
if only one spark tip is wet , soaking in fuel, Injector issues.

when it stalled pull all 4 plugs and look at the tips.
(if cam is timed right) be super super first thing, on this 4 banger.
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1994 camry, won't start. Engine turns over freely, good spark on new plugs, Injectors switching ( tested with light bulb) plugs wet with petrol, checked timing belt, but ok and timing marks line up?

if you have spark and fuel and it is on time it should run if the compression is high enough was this car flooded really bad if so make sure your oil is OK the do a compression check dry and wet you may find when you you do your wet test that it brings the compression up enough to git the car started that would mean that your cylinders were washed out with gas causing the compression to go down
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Galant Special Edition 1994 Motor does not start

this maybe caused by no fuel or faulty fuel pump, ignition coil, wire and plug crank position sensor. first check for spark by removing on spark plug wire and put a spark plug in the spark plug wire boot, donot touch the plug only the boot have someone crank the car over. if you see spark, that part of the ignition is good. if not, check the coil resistance if should 40 to 80 ohm with a volt meter pf not replace. if ok, but no spark check the igniton control madule make sure the coil and module are receiving current. if not check the fuse that feels them. if it is ok, check distributor cap and rotor. if rotor and cap are fine, check for fuel at either the fuel filter, the fuel return line or removing some spark plug and see if they are wet. if there is no fuel check the fuel pump and the fuse and relay that control the pump. if there is fuel with high pressure but there is no spark, check the crank sensor for signal with a volt meter while cranking the vehicle
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1995 blazer was running rough, now not starting

if you believe some one put water or bad gas in your tank, then you will have to drain the tank. however, to know if you have water in your gas, first disconnect fuel return line or the line that goes in to the fuel pressure regulator put some fuel in a clear glass and let it sit for 15min.if you see white cloud at the bottom of the glass or water. drain the tank. if not check for spark by removing one spark plug wire and spark plug. place the spark plug in the spark plug wire boot and touch it on the metal part of the car. do not touch the spark plug itself only the booth with the plug in the boot. have some one crank the car over. if you see spark, the spark part is ok. but if no spark, check the coil with a volt meter it should be 3 to 8 ohm if not replace the coil. if ok, check for fuel by removing one spark plug or two and see if they are wet,if wet pump is ok. if not check the fuel pump relay and fuse. if fuse is blown replace. check relay with a volt meter. resistance of the relay should be between 40 to 80 ohm. not mega ohm,if mega ohm, replace. if not , listen to the fuel pump while some one is cranking the car. if you donot hear the pump, disconnect the pump electrical connector and applive 12 volt and ground to the pump by using a jumper or any wire and listen for pump sound. if not replace the pump. if there is sound coming from the pump, it is ok. check the fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge or simply disconnect the vaccum from the regulator and try starting the car. if fuel pump is ok and spark is ok. then it maybe the computer or the crank position signal. also check the fuel filter it may be clog.
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2004 classic stopps. found flooded out spark plugs

put fuel injector cleaner in it and check your air filter
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