Mitsubishi WD-52525 picture problem

The pop was a high voltage arc of electricity that blew some vital components on the main circuit board. The unit is of no use now. Repairs are far more than replacing the TV.

I think that would be the digital video(formatter) board. Possible bad capacitor syndrome. Goog " bad caps and model."

chance is that if there is no wire to go there it may remain empty double ck if nothing tunn on and ck operation

disconnect the connector for the front switch control board. Try turning it on with the remote. If it works replace that board, also look for bad caps on the small signal board. they're 1000Mf 16v

This is not something that you should attempt on your own. There are dozens of capacitors on several different circuit boards that will need replacement. Furthermore, just the disassembly process is quite complicated and time consuming, not to mention locating all the bad caps and then the re-installation process afterwards.

Mitsubishi will rebuild this chassis at their facility. Contact them so they can locate a company in your area that can handle this for you. Be aware though that this can cost $600-$700 or more between parts and labor. Perhaps someone at Mitsubishi will help pay for this repair.


michtech








michtech

You have to take the TV apart. Pull the electrical chassis out and look for bad electrolytic caps on the boards. The red LED probably means the 2 - 3300UF caps on the power supply board are bad. You can tell if they are bad by the fact that their tops are puffed up and they may or may not be leaking brown fluid. Compare them against the other caps on the boards and you will see how they have flat tops.

BUT before you take the TV apart you can check the error codes by pushing "menu" and "Device" at the same time and holding for about 10 seconds. The status light will blink two numbers. ex. one flash pause two flashes is 12 Error Code Probable Cause

12 No error detected
22 Recovery from momentary Reset
32 Lamp Cover open
33 Air Filter Cover open
34 Lamp abnormality
35 Chassis Fan failure
36 Exhaust (Back Cover) or Lamp Ballast Fan failure
37 Engine (DMD or Lamp) Fan failure
38 Excess Lamp Temperature
39 Excess DMD Temperature
41 Short Detected
44 DVI Cable (between Chassis and Engine) disconnected


or use this table -



You can buy replacement caps from Mouser electronics online. There are plenty of solutions detailing how to do this already posted.

http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/v26-chassis-block-capacitor-kit for $115 This kit does all the caps in the chassis.

which caps did you replace? As the normal repair for the first generation dlp is to replace the (4) 1000 uf caps. the (2) 2200 uf caps and the (2) 3300uf caps on the power pwb when you get the 34 error code.

?? give description of problem?? plug it in and hookup some cable!

Blinking Problem
http://www.chrisandnat.com/Projects/BlinkingTV/blink.htm
http://www.jeremyburns.com/Mitsubishi-Green-Blinking-Light-Fix.pdf
http://www.fixya.com/howto/h159332-mitsubishi_dm_board_repair
http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186
replace DM

Picture of bad caps
http://www.auctioncreations.com/wd62525a.JPG

The DM board is the one with the digital connectors on the back panel. If you already have it appart, you may as well check the caps on all of the boards. The caps that go bad are typically Jamicon brand caps in 1000 uF and 330 uF values. There are also a couple of 3300 uF caps in the PS that cause problems.