Open case is there anything else one must do besides removing the bottom plate and the phillips screw before prying the two halves apart ?

Most likely what has happened is that the gears have stripped. The gears inside are plastic but the spindle is metal. When a dough is too heavy and gets caught up in the beaters it tends to eat them. If you take it apart, you will probably find that the gears are shot.
The fix...order new gears, tear down the mixer and replace them. These gears really should have been metal! Check the sunbeam web site for authorized repair places to get your parts.

1. Remove the ejector button...it should pop out with a flat head screw driver. There is a small phillips head screw under it. Take it out.

2. Take out the screws on the bottom. This should allow the face plate on the mixer to slide off, allowing your motor assembly to then be pulled forward.

3. Remove the mounting brackets/shock absorbers...they are rubber u shaped items that hold the motor in. Once that is done, remove the black plastic bracket on the bottom; two phillip head screws. Then unscrew the two long screws underneath. they hold on the speed control electric board as well as the top to the gear box. Pop the silver fasteners on the side of the gear box and you are in. the gears should lift out. put the new ones in and do the whole thing in reverse.

hope this helps.

Apparently the switch is very easily available, unknown for what reason. In Europe they say it is not available at all anymore, which I find strange.
However!
Dissasemble, by removeing base plate and screw underneath curved retainer plstic clip in the front. Then gently pry apart with blunt, thin object to split the two halves. Remember to unplug the power cord first. Check the circuit board for cracks, or burnt components. Then suspect the triac/tyristor. Desolder it and test it with a multimeter. (google "test triac multimeter"). Then note the code on the front of the triac, and search for a supplier of electronic parts to get hold of a new one and solder it back on. Note the orientation of the pins, and reattach heatsink if fitted. (Euro version have non.)The triac often looks like a flat design transistor and have a code/part nr that may look like; TCI 226 N, as on my European 230v version. Electronic components suppliers also have interchangeability lists for different manufacturers and use cross reference lists. Should only costs a few dollars or so. Triacs tend to stay fully open when failed, causing full speed in any mode. It is worth a shot.

1. remove the base palte by lifting the end opposite to the electric cord.
2. Loosen the bottom power outled slider, without removing it fully
3. unclip the curved plastic retainer in the front and unscrew philips head screw.
4. Work around the edges of the two halves until it comes apart and you are able to free the slider from its return spring.

And see pictures here at the bottom

He will have to take it all apart. He will be able to retrieve the nut.

Jerry G.

Yes. You can do two things. Replace the swith curcuit board or replace the triac/tyristor on the board itself. The last solution requires you to unsolder the triac and loosen it from the heatsink(110v veriosn only. 230v version has no heatsink) and test it with a multimeter to establish if it has failed. (Testing of tracs can be googled.) In eather case you will need to open the casing.

1. remove the base palte by lifting the end opposite to the electric cord.
2. Loosen the bottom power outled slider, without removing it fully
3. unclip the curved plastic retainer in the front and unscrew philips head screw.
4. Work around the edges of the two halves until it comes apart and you are able to free the slider from its return spring.

Replace the cicuit board completely if available. Or resolder a new triac observing the orietation of the pins and reattach to the heatsink by riveting/cliping on or whatever applies to you model. Using heat conductive silicon paste between triac and heatsink is a good idea if it is originally fitted (if white paste residues can be seen). The European 230 v version do not have a heat sink, due to the higher voltage and thus lower current opassing through. If the Euro version, simply replace the triac, trim the pins on the back of the board nad put back in place.

Triacs can be obtained from any electronic componets dealer, as long as you can supply the code stamped on it. The Euro version has code TIC226N, which you can find in any component or manufacturer cross refereanse table. TIC226N basically means a 8 amp triac. Triac is simplified just a sort of ac transistor. The US version I do not have the code for, but it must have a higher ampere rating, thus the heatsink

To replace;
Put all internal componets back in place in the right halve. Put the left halve on top and fit properly by gently pressing together. Fit the screw in the front and the retaining clip. Fit the sliding cover by cliping it back on, observing that the notch for the return spring will meet the spring pin on the right side for it to snap in place. The spring pin can be observed through the slots for the sliding cover. Then insert the base plate reversely of how you removed it.

The problems of these mixers, is that if overloaded the maximum current rating of the triac's may be exceeded. This will cause the triacs to short curcuit and therefore will give full power in any mode.
To avoid the problem, avoide heavy batters, heavy doughs and prolonged high load tasks. Otherwise a very handy smart little mixer that should last for years.

You need to remove the base plate by carefully prying it open at the opposite end of where the electric cord is fitted. Then release the two halves working along the edges with a thin blunt object. Also carefully remove the sliding cover for the center power mixer outlet before separating the halves.

I'm looking myself for a guide to open it fully, but I can at least answer your question partly. Maybe you can get on from there.

When you look at the front side of the mixer(the side opposite to the cable), there's a slim oval lid with rounded ends. Push a small flat sdcrewdriver under that lid until it pops out, revealing a screw. Remove the screw.

The rest of the enclosure seems to be held together by several hidden plastic clips. Use a pocket knife with a thin blade and push it carefully between the halves of the case. Work your way from the screw to the top and bottom side, levering the halves apart step by step. Do not use too much force!

I'm stuck at the back of the case where the rubber ring is. I can't get this part open., but it's a start

the chrome ring around the rotating head needs tapped off to and drive the pin out of the center shaft of the head. Pry it off to access 5 ring gear screws under the head. The also hold the two halfs of the case together along with the 4 obvious ones.

Sometimes there are hidden areas under the products name plates where they need to be gently pryed off and other times usually in the least exspensive types they are just snap fitted together and you will need to gently pry apart at the seams!!

To disassemble: Pull the rear cover off by prying on the bottom edge. It snaps in and hinges at the top. Remove the small oval cover on the front by prying, then remove the phillips screw. Remove the protective slider off the bottom. The 2 case halves then need to be separated by prying.

My daughter dropped it (again) and speeds 2 and 3 failed to work so I disassembled it and found a broken center terminal on the power transistor. I saw a fine crack so I soldered it. I also added much needed strain relief to the heat sink. It works fine now. This is a poor design. The power device has a heat sink attached and there is no strain relief so the transistor can move back and forth at least 3/8". For a tool that sees a lot of vibration and shock, this heat sink should be tie strapped or have hot melt glue to prevent movement. Gary