Charging voltage coming to the boart but not going to battery connector

There should be 3.7 volt come out from the battery connectors - +
If the battery is low voltage a short measure after a3 minutes and you see the batterie voltage runs very fast back by measure with a multimeter , replace the battery. if there is no difference after the connect of 3 minutes the loadcycle if you can measure any dc from the load connector of the loader to be shure that its not the loader what is defect.

You ever find a fix for this problem?
I've got one too and I just noticed that the "green" charging light isn't coming on when it's plugged in to charge. I got the copter "used" and it apparently had a full charge when I got it home, but after using it and putting it on the charger over night, nothing. Reading the manual a little closer this morning, I noticed the "green" light is the "charging circuit: on" indicator. It's not coming on at all. (No, there are no switches etc.)
Here's what I'm going to do.
(Since we're dealing with Li-ion batteries, extreme care must be taken. Possible fire hazard. Follow these steps at your own risk. I am not responsible for any personal injury, or damage to your helicopter.)
THAT SAID! :)
The unit uses 3 wires to supply power coming from the charger.
One is for power (+), one is ground (-), and the other would be for the charging circuit (+).
Now, the reason for the above warning is because with any charging system, there runs the risk of fire, explosion, or acid leakage when improper charging techniques are applied. Li-ion batteries more susceptible to this type of damage than traditional Ni-Cad batteries, but that doesn't mean you can't recharge them yourself if you're careful. (Be warned, you may decrease the life of your batteries this way, but then again, what does it matter if you can't fly the darn thing anyway right?)
Okay. The charger's transformer (the part that goes into the wall) states that it pushes 5.6v @ 80mA into the batteries when plugged in. (Read: "Output" on the transformer.)
Since there is no additional output voltage listed, we can assume that this is the maximum listed amount of voltage and amperage that any one part of the system can handle at a given time.
Besides, the lower and slower you charge, the safer and better charge you'll get.
If you have a multi-meter handy you can do a voltage check on the wires to verify that your current transformer is putting out the correct voltage, but my guess is that like mine, it is not. (Most likely on the "Grey" colored lead.) Then check the voltages at the leads from the helicopter. (This tells you how much battery charge you have.)
That said, you have a couple options.
1. Use the transformer you have.
2. Find and use another.
Now we have to do something a little drastic here first. Unless you have a connector that fits the helicopter's connector (Check an old computer for one) you are going to have to take that little charging box apart and remove the one that's in there.
I don't suggest trying to splice directly into the wires of the helicopter as there is nothing wrong from the connector back to the helicopter. (If it ain't broke, don't fix it.)
Once you have this piece, follow the suggestions below.
1A. Using the one you have. - Since we know the "Red" wire and "Black" wires on your unit work, (indicated by the Red light you mentioned) you could simply splice the third "Grey" and the "Red" wires together PRIOR to the connector leading to the helicopter. This would divert power from the "Red" (power) circuit to the "Grey" (charging circuit) thus supplying power to the charging circuit. Now this will bypass the part of the circuit board that stabilizes the current in such a way that is safe for Li-ion batteries, but then again, most of these fixes are going to do this anyway.
2.A Find and use a different transformer. - Cell phones typically charge at around 4.3v to 5.6v. The power cords used to charge these devices can be found just about anywhere. USB ports charge at 5.6v as well.
Knowing this, you should be able to find a working transformer easy enough simply laying around the house. (Verify this by reading the "output" of the transformer you wish to use.)
Then, take the Black (-) lead and splice it into the Black lead of the connector (male) that is going to plug into the female connector of the helicopter.
Next, take the positive lead from the transformer and splice it into both of the other leads (Red/Grey) of the same connector.
Check your voltage output of all three connections. You should have positive voltage at both the Red and Grey leads, when the negative is touched.
Take a reading with your meter from the helicopter and write it down.
Assuming that you've done this correctly, find a well ventilated, fire resistant area to charge the helicopter and plug it into the female connector of the helicopter.
Watch the whole thing closely to make sure it doesn't catch fire and leave it alone for a bit.
After about an hour, re-check the voltage from the helicopter. If you notice an increase in the voltage here, you are charging your helicopter's batteries.
Continue charging until you reach the maximum votage of your battery pack. About 6v. (I think this battery pack is most likely a 6v setup.)
Once you have reached full charge, disconnect the charging unit from the helicopter and fly your bird! :) Repeat
Just to let you know. You can (if you don't go much higher) increase the output VOLTAGE of your transformer SLIGHTLY in order to decrease the charging time necessary to recharge your batteries.
There. We're done.
Let me know if this helps at all okay? I'd like to know how it all turns out for you.
Oh! Now that you've got a little info on how your bird works, it may be time to boost your birds power all around! lol But I digress.
Hope this all helps!
Any questions, post them here and I'll get back to you as soon as I read it.
Sincerely,
policetac

Battery light on ! alternator isn't charging . Test the alternator electrical circuits .Main cable on the back of the alt. should have B+ voltage .Pin # 3 at the connector on the alt. should have B + voltage - fuse F10 10amp under hood fuse box supply's B+ to pin #3 . Pin's 1 & 2 at the connector go to the PCM - engine computer . This is a computer controlled charging system .
Ford PCM controlled alternator testing

Symptoms of a charging system problem. The charging system comprises the alternator, battery and associated wiring. If the alternator should fail to produce a sufficient or stable enough voltage for the car's electronic systems - due to a wiring short, faulty voltage regulator, or corroded electrical connector, for example - the car will run off the "reserve" in the battery for a short time until the battery is eventually depleted. (The battery itself could also contribute to the problem if it has a faulty cell or for some reason is causing the alternator to put out an excessively high voltage in an attempt to compensate.)

So a couple of quick checks: Measure the battery voltage with the car off. Yours sounds like it will be dead; the clicking while attempting to start is the starter relay not getting enough juice. Then the question becomes: Is the battery dead because of age (fails to hold a charge) or because the alternator isn't charging it? To answer this question, measure the voltage at the battery with the car running. (Jump it or substitute a known good 12V battery.) You should see 14+V. If you only see 12V or less, you're seeing only the current battery charge without any contribution from the alt.

Finally, don't assume because the alt isn't putting out anything the alt is at fault. The wiring harness and electrical connector to the back of the alt should be thoroughly examined. (The wiring connector is a known failure point on early models.) The wiring harness should obviously show no signs of burning, melting or chafing and the battery terminals should be corrosion free and tight. If the harness checks out, remove the alt and have it bench tested. Rebuilding usually gives better long term reliability than chain store bought reman units, I'm told.

Long story short, I suspect the voltage regulator in your alternator failed, the battery gave it's all trying to keep your car running, finally gave up and now you have a dead alt and a dead battery. Don't just install a new battery without doing the alternator voltage output tests.

If you're really lucky it could be as simple as loose or corroded battery terminals.

PLEASE NOTE: The Low Voltage Protection feature on this battery charger will not allow the charger to activate unless it is connected to a battery pack that has a minimum voltage of 16 volts. Battery packs with voltages below that level of charge cannot be recovered or recharged. This is a safety feature to prevent overheating in the event of a faulty battery. This battery charger will not output any voltage to the XLR connector until connected to a battery pack meeting this minimum voltage requirement.

The battery light is coming on due to either a defective Alternator voltage regulator Diode (built into the alternator) or to a wiring connector problem at the Alternator. When the charging system voltage drops below the battery voltage the battery warning light will come on, this is not a Battery problem as many think, it is a charging system issue as stated above, the main component of the charging system is the Alternator..

First, charge your battery to full charge. then, using a digital volt ohm meter connect the red meter lead to the positive post and the black meter lead to the negative post, put the meter in the DC voltage, 20 volt or greater range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 14.5- 14.8 volts. If not, your charging system is not working.

Next we check you alternator. At the front of the engine case, find the connector where the voltage regulator connects to the alternator and unplug the connector. Look down into the connector on the case and you should see to metal connectors. When we get ready, we're going to insert one meter lead into each metal connector. It makes no difference which lead goes to which connector. Put your meter in AC voltage, 50 volts or greater range. Very important, make sure the meter is in AC voltage range. Now, start the bike and bring it to high idle. Insert the meter leads, one into each connector. Make sure you do not touch the engine cases. You should read 30 volts or greater. If so, you alternator stator is fine but your regulator is probably bad. If not, your alternator stator is probably bad. Once you determine where your problem is, repost and we'll tell you how to repair it you wish to do the job yourself.

Good Luck
Steve

1. Check the voltage on the White/Red wire at the 2-pin connector on the alternator. Key on engine off there should be near zero volts and when the engine is running and the alternator is charging the voltage should the charging system voltage (13.8 - 14.2 volts). Voltage drop the alternator case to battery negative. Voltage drop the battery positive circuit to the Black/Red wire (Large wire on output post) and the Yellow/Black wire in the 2-pin connector (sensing voltage). Looking for 0.05 volts maximum.

2. Disconnect the 2-pin connector at the alternator when the engine is running and the alternator light is on. The light should go out. If not, then there is a circuit problem (shorted to ground).

When you plug in the adapter into the laptop a LED lights up to indicate that it is connected to the mains supply and is charging.
The adapter is faulty or the connector is not making proper electrical contact. Wriggle the connector plug to see if the charge light comes on, if it does then the loose connector needs repairing.

Check the adapter with a multi-meter, the voltage reading should be a slightly higher than the voltage that is printed on the label on the adapter. If the voltage is more than 10% below the nominated voltage then replace the adapter it is faulty.

check for charging system voltage to battery by testing for 13-15volts dc across battery posts w/ multimeter while bike is running.if less, check for ac voltage to regulator/rectifier w/ multimeter while bike is running.if there is voltge to module, it is most likely defective.if there is no voltage to module,follow wire loom from voltage reg. to electrical connector plug.unplug it, start bike, test for ac voltage at other side of connector on the electrical pins on the loom coming from the engine. if no power there, the charging coil, or the wiring from the coil is defect.