My 40850 had a water leak that caused the earth leakage circuit breaker on the electricity supply to pop. I cleared the water from the base and ran another cycle which began ok, letting water into the machine ok but then it popped the earth leakage circuit breaker again. I relocated the machine to the garage in an attempt to isolate the leak, took off the side panels, connected water via a garden hose and tried again. Now the machine will not let water in at all, at the start of the cycle it starts to pump out ok, pauses then restarts the pump out and after a few minutes displays error 20. Water that I put into the machine by hand is being pumped out ok at the start of the cycle. I have checked the float in the bottom of the unit and it looks ok, the switch "clicks" when I raise the float by hand, are there any other checks I can make on this and any tips on how to get access to it. When I moved the machine to the garage, it was placed on its side during the move. I have checked the pressure switch and there is no sign of water in it or in the connecting pipe. I have also checked for voltage at the water inlet valve and only 3 volts are registering between the start of a cycle and the error 20 appearing. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to diagnose the fault further, or have a manual that will help me find my way around the internals. Many thanks. Wayne
Check pcb board sounds like its blown something
Testimonial: "Hi Martyn, thanks for the post. Any idea where the pcb is on the 40850, its not obvious, only pumps and pipes in the bottom tray and some small potted components."
SOURCE: Miele Premier Dishwasher will not fill with water
click on this link directly to check out how fill valve looks
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/fillvalve.JPG
you will have to remove the access panels to reach the fill valve click on this link to get more instructions
http://www.applianceaid.com/dishaccess.html
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This is often the fill valve. You can test the fill valve coil for continuity with a ohm meter, no needle movement = bad fill valve. You can also test the fill valve for 120 volts at the fill valve with a volt meter, power there and no fill = bad fill valve. No 120 volts there, you will have to trace power back to find the trouble maker. Test things like the float and float switch, wires and timer. Fill valves are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting, if your dishwasher fills the first and second fill cycles and then no more water through the rest of the cycle, replace the fill valve. You will need to remove the access panels to get at the fill valve. Dishwasher fill valves also have a screen built into the valve entrance, this can also get all clogged up and need to be cleaned.
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also click on this link directly to get all types of troubleshooting instructions
http://www.applianceaid.com/dish.html
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This will help. Thanks please keep
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SOURCE: Asko D3530 water inlet fault code, water valve is
All im going to say is i think you have a faulty inlet valve.the water is probably only trickling into the machine & taking forever to fill,the computer board has probably picked up that the washer is taking to long to fill & has thrown up a fault code relating to the fill or inlet valve.Also sometimes if the filters in the bottom are clogged the water cant get to the wash motor & the motor cant load up with water.The motor runs without load on it & the computer board interprets this as slow fill or inlet valve problem.
SOURCE: Hello, my Bosch Classixx dishwasher SGS43E42EU/21
Hello Dave,
Sounds like an overfill problem - the symptoms are consistent with a failed pressure switch. Water enters the dishwasher through a chamber which has a float arm connected to a small microswitch -this is the pressure switch. The concept is similar to that of the float switch for the aqua-stop system.
As the water level in the dishwasher rises, the water level rises in this chamber. Once the dishwasher and the chamber are full, water pressure trips this switch, closing the water inlet valve and the wash cycle then starts.
If the pressure switch doesn't trip, the water level continues to rise and this trips the overfill float switch. This closes the water inlet valve and starts the drain pump. Once the water level has dropped the dishwasher attempts to fill again, but the pressure switch remains closed and the cycle repeats - ad infinitum.
To check the pressure switch you will need the remove the left side panel (when facing the door) and a multi-meter to test the switch with. If you have the necessary equipment and skills to attempt this repair yourself (seems like you do) please let me know and I will provide the relevant details.
Regards,
BElectric
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After further review of this website and others I have resolved the problem. The water supply line has an Eltek water isolation valve that requires to be mounted vertically, I had it laid on the floor, relocating it resolved the water supply problem. A leak has subsequently been detected in the flexi tube connecting the washer arm supply pipe to the pump, a replacement is being sourced. Thanks to all who have contributed to this site, the information here has enabled me to fix the problem. Many thanks. Wayne
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