There is a fuse inside (not sure where on that model) that kills the power. There is also thermal fuses and thermostats that will prevent the heating element from getting power (usually clogged vent). But no power is the fuse (usually encased in white plastic so it doesn't look like a fuse.
SOURCE: Dryer is getting hot but clothes are not drying
You have a vent problem. Eliminate all (if possible) flex duct (replacing with ridged aluminum pipe and aluminum elbows). Clean lint out of remaining vent pipe. Make sure vent is not crushed or obstructed, especially behind the dryer. If possible, make sure outside vent termination is not a two inch opening. (you want a full 4 inches)
SOURCE: Clothes aren't dry
Heating and not drying can be caused by 3 different things. I will address all three most common first
- Restricted air flow, usually a blocked vent. If the moisture from the laundry cannot get outside and fresh air in the dryer you will take extra long to dry. Be sure there is ventilation into the laundry room and more important make sure the vent is not kinked behind the dryer and that it is clean and allowing good air flow. You can go outside to where the vent terminates and feel the flow while it is running to check.
- Sensor has build up on it. Look in the dryer drum, inside on the back wall, inside on the front wall, somewhere depending on your model you will two strips of metal about the size of a pencil. Clean those with a little alcohol. Those are what sense the wetness of the clothes and control the cycle. If they get a build up residue on them they do not sense properly.
- The load is mixed, meaning you have some articles that absorb moisture like towels and some light garments that dry fast, the fast drying articles can fool the dryer into thinking the entire load is dry when the heavy articles are not.
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SOURCE: dryer stopped operating during check on clothes.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Hi
If the dryer is not drying the clothes then you would need to check for the following things-
Electric Dryer---
1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.
2. Check for the amp reading at 240 V, it should have reading of 24, 21 and 3 amp (approx.) for 2 lines and neutral respectively.
3. Heating element may have turned or the connection to the element might be loose. Sometimes a shorted circuit element will keep on blowing the fuse or circuit breaker.
4. Motor wiring shorting to ground.
Hope this helps...
Daniel
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