Electric motor bogs down and sometime won't start

1. Bad current. Try not to use long cord.
If the thermic fuse blows out to many times it will be dameged and needs replacement.

2. It is possible that the non return valve is dameged and does not release pressure from the tank until the pump = like startig a car in gear.

3. Pressure switch dameged. Thet are calculated to for a certain on and of cycle. It will wear off. Try to instal a condor switch they are quite good.

4. If it is 3 phase engine it is possible that one phase is missing. Or it is connected wrong. Check the dirrection of the pump. Thre phase electric motors will spin in the other direction too if not connected properly.

5. Pump damage. Not likely if it sounds right. And has enough oil.

Advice: do not let the compresdpr work mor then 10 minutes. It has to cool down.



Try to see if the electric motor over heats: not enough electricity or you motor is half way burned.
It smells funny?

There is an unloader valve and a check valve on the discharge side of the pump. The check valve is not holding and the unloader is not dumping the pressure so the compressor cannot start. Since it is new, you may want to take it back. If not you are going to be replacing parts.

when a tank is empty there is no fuel for the pump and the system runs low on fuel pressure Going up hill the fuel runs away from the pick up line and the pump sucks air
After filling it takes a while to empty the air out of the system to allow full pressure again. It is an extremely costly practice to run so low on fuel as it may lead to a pump replacement

you have a suction line pulling air.it will not leak fuel but make sure all clamps are tight and line is in good shape.

I would suspect the fuel pump inside the gas tank is defective. Next time it fails to short hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the engine test port in the fuel supply pipe to the fuel injectors. You can buy the tester for about $25.00 on line.

Try tightening the drive belt.

It sounds like the compressor is trying to start under load because there is a tightness in the pump itself or there is high pressure air in the line between the pump and tank There is a small valve that releases the pressure out of the main pipe that runs between the compressor and tank once the tank is full and the motor automatically cuts off. You know this valve is working by the sound of a short spurt if air being released when the motor cuts off. Releasing this pressure means that the motor is able to restart easily because there is no load. If the valve is not releasing this air, the compressor is trying to start under full load which the motor is not capable of doing, hence the slow running, overheating and popping of breakers due to a current overload as the motor tries to run up to normal peed. Motor burnout is possible if it keeps recurring.

This small release valve is attached to the Pressure control switch that switches the motor On & Off and usually has a small pipe going to it or is incorporated inside the Pressure Control Switch. If the valve appears to be working then it means that the Non-return valve on the input to the tank is not sealing properly and letting air back into the main pipe causing the compressor to start under load. Check both valves for correct operation and replace as necessary.

If all the air side checks out OK the check for low oil level and / or binding in the air pump main drive shaft.

There should be a device called an "unloader " connected to the machines own switch. This releases the pressure from the compressor so it can start up without the resistance of the pressure in the tank.There should be a hissing noise when the machine stops, the sound of the air on the compressor side of a non return valve being released.

bleeder valve is bad or dirty drain air unplug machine pull the back up plate control plate and make it shinny with emmeory cloth then clen it and try again, if it still does the same thing your going to nedd to replace unloader valve.

hi dave your non return valve is passing air,you will find this if you follow the delivery pipe from your pump to your tank ,where it connects to the tank this is your nrv,there will be a hexagonnal plug ,BEFORE REMOVAL EMPTY YOUR TANK COMPLETELY.remove plug,inside you will either find a spring and a synthetic seal or a spring and sphere , if its just like a rubber like seal just replace the seal(sometimes you can simply turn it over),if its the ball type,then you will have to replace the whole valve,available from your local
compressed air service agent if you have any trouble finding one localy then contact myself at
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