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THE FAN AND MICROWAVE TUBE RUN OFF THE ELECTRONIC TIMER. OPENING THE DOOR SHOULD SHUT IT ALL DOWN AND WHEN YOU CLOSE THE DOOR AGAIN YOU SHOULD NEED TO PRESS THE START BUTTON AGAIN. IF NOT, ITS SOUNDS LIKE AN ELECTRONIC RELAY IS LOCKED CLOSED ON THE TIMER BOARD.
I would check the door switches for a faulty switch. If it were condensation on the control panel. I would think it would have dried out by now unless it has damaged the control board.
Yes! this should be checked right away to make sure the magnetron is not running with the fan when the door is open , it may be a problem with one of the door switches going bad, left unchecked it probably blow the fuse in the microwave killing all power, but it is quite repairable. But please do not use until it has been checked out by a professional for safety reasons.
Just checked the GE website. Had the same problem with my 5 year old microwave. GE website says to close and open the door quickly three times. First time I did this it didn't work. Second time I closed the door with some significant force and reopened it more quickly. Worked. Unplugged the microwave, plugged it back in, still fine.
If this is and Over the Range micro, the exhaust fan needs to run ANYTIME the cooktop is on. They make things for quantity and not quality, so the plastic has little tolerance for heat. Running the fan, diminishes heat off the front of the unit. Also, the micro MUST be at leat 24" off the cooktop.
Hi firstly to see if it is producing energy, buy some 5mm light emitting diodes from an electronics store. cut off the leads close to the plastic body.
place in microwave and put on cook for max 10 secs, if the led's light up you have microwave energy, shut off the oven as soon as they glow otherwise you end up with a mess.
If you have energy then your problem is most probably the door interlock micro switches which after time do not operate properly. let me know the results and we can go further.
This is an interlock issue or a faulty temperature sensor. Both will require the outer casing to be removed for inspection. Basic tests can be done with a continuity tester or cheap digital multimeter with resistance checking facilty (Radioshack)
The sensors for these types of fans are normally attached to the roof of the cooking cavity, little silver components with two or more wires.
Check these out with a meter if any are open circuit then they need to be replaced.
The second problem is probably defective door switches, or it may be a problem with the control panel, which we repair nationwide for only $32.50.
On my Web site, I have info on safety, disassembly, and diagnosing and replacing door switches: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Running it empty has damaged the magnetron. It will work for a while, but it will eventually have to be replaced. A good parts source is here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
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