My Frigidaire FMV158FMB over the range microwave was working fine and all of the sudden I noticed there was no power to it - even though I had used it less than thirty minutes ago. If I hit the reset on my GFCI outlet the microwave gets power back, but ONLY if the door is open - as soon as I close the door the outlet trips again. There is no visible damage to any part of the microwave and the microwave has not been abused. Fuse at the main breaker is not tripping and I have tried resetting that fuse to no avail. What could be causing this issue? Thanks for any assistance you can provide!
Sounds like the door latch switch is broken and shorting out.
Testimonial: "Thanks! Is that something we can repair ourselves?"
The parts are here:http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...
Would the door latch switch be something that would be visibly broken? I don't see anything that appears to be broken on the door latch. Do you know where I could order this part? Thanks for your help!
Its not the latch that you can see, it is the switch that the latch activates. That switch is inside the case, I looked for them and they are hard to find.. IT seems they are prone to failure and it looks like the bracket that holds it gets replaced a lot too. So you need to remove the cover and look for the door latch switch.
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SOURCE: No power
The door switches are designed to prevent the unit from running while the door is open. You probably have a blown fuse, and it's a white or dark grey ceramic fuse of 15A or 20A, available from local big box stores or appliance parts stores. The fuse is usually located on the floor of the chassis behind the control panel, or mounted in the same area as the door switches. Also, I'm really curious how the door switch got stuck while cleaning? That sounds scary...
SOURCE: Microwave Trips Breaker and Blows Fuse when not in Use
Since the internal fuse blew, the problem has to be either a surge from the power source, or an intermittent or transient short at some point beyond the fuse. With the unit unplugged, I would first look at the varistor (surge absorber) on the control circuit board to see if it might have taken a transient. It may look charred, distorted, etc. Then I would look at the door interlock switches and mounts to see if the switches are clicking properly and if they are aligned and secure. The purpose of the monitor switch is to blow the fuse (and usually the breaker) if there is aan interlokc problem. Next would be a look at the condition of the wiring from the fuse holder all the way back to the power cord. Then just for good measure, I would test the power outlet. A toaster is a good high-current load to use. But I don't think the problem's in the wiring or breaker. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find the wiring diagram, helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your base model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 Be sure to use a proper ceramic appliance fuse that's meant for the job.
SOURCE: Tripping of circuit breaker
Check what other appliances are on your circuit. What goes off when the breaker is tripped. You may need to relocate the microwave to a different circuit. Try to stay away from the refrigerator or AC circuits.
SOURCE: dead microwave
There are replacable fuses inside. Taking the microwave apart requires removal of a lot of screws and the cover that can be rather bulky. make sure it's unplugged and safe before you begin. you can get replacement fuses at radio shack, ect. be sure to buy the same type and amperage. if the blow a second time there may be other issues.
SOURCE: microwave power shut off and stopped working
You can test safety thermostats with an ohmmeter. There should be a short circuit between the device's two terminals if it's closed. (This doesn't necessarily mean the device is good, though. It might be opening at too low a temperature when the oven is operating.) A high resistance or an open circuit means the thermostat has opened and needs to be replaced. An appliance parts store should have suitable replacements, or you can order from a number of online vendors. I usually start at the Sears parts site. They have part information for many models, and usually pretty fair prices for parts. But once you have the part number you need, a Google search will let you shop around.
It does sound like your oven shut down because of a thermostat. One is normally mounted on the magnetron tube that supplies the microwaves, and another is on the cooking cavity. I've had to replace these many times. If the main power fuse blows the oven will not come back on until it's replaced. But you might also have bad solder connections causing the trouble as well. I've seen solder joints on the control board and power filter board cause dead ovens.
If you're not absolutely sure of what you're doing working on a microwave, you might want to let a professional check it over and make an estimate. There are potentially lethal voltages present, and microwave leakage may be a concern as well.
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